/ NEW ARTICLE: Todra Gorge FAQ - by Glyn Jones

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Ever fancied visiting the Todra Gorge in Morocco? Sun kissed limestone walls, exotic culture and an African stamp in your passport.

Glyn Jones gives us the low-down on everything we need to know in the latest UKClimbing FAQ Article.

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=766
AndrewHuddart - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor:
No more excuses for not going - great article.
Glyn Jones - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor: further bits and bobs in the following thread;

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=201319
climbingpixie - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Great article Glyn. Well written and really brings the place to life.
rock waif on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones: Well done Glyn!
Will Hunt - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

You never told us you did Heading The Shot!

;-)
Toby S - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

How much did the flights cost you from Gatwick? I quite fancy going somewhere a bit more exotic for a climbing trip. What's it like for easier graded stuff for punters (like me!)
Glyn Jones - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Toby S: I think we paid about 80 but have seen deals for less. The grades are good from 4s to 8s. They split them so you'll have 5a, 5b, 5c and 5+ but they feel like font grading. Loads for the punter and the challenged.
Glyn Jones - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to rock waif: Thanks RW and thanks to all that offered pics that made or didn't make the article. Ta to those on other threads and this one that said nice things. Makes me want to write another.

:o)
54ms - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Nice one mate, brought back memories. Maybe stress that a 60m rope really is a minimum, we found quite a few single pitch climbs that needed a 70m for lowering off. For multi pitch we ended up using that and a 60m ice line we trailed just for abesing. We tried doing a route finding that 70m by itself wasn't enough to reach the next belay so had to abseil of a single bolt.

Glyn Jones - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Duncan_S: 100m is worth it but didn't want to put people off with the thought of having to invest in a new rope. Thanks for the contribution.

Like your profile and picture by the way.
54ms - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Cheers mate, its was my first time out the country climbing and near enough fist time sport climbing, hightlight of my climbing to date.

Lots of people may be having to invest in a 60m rope though so may be worth a mention. The other option would be take 50m doubles as most people on this site are predomiantly trad climbers so may be something they own?
Toby S - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:
> Loads for the punter and the challenged.

Great, so it's just the kind of place for me .... and you :0)
Glyn Jones - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Toby S:
> (In reply to Glyn Jones)
> [...]
>
> Great, so it's just the kind of place for me .... and you :0)

It is perfect, no queues too.
54ms - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Just had another thought. If your the alturistic type and fancy helping out then take some maillons. The lower of on lots of climbs is two bolts with a maillon through one, linked to the other with a very uv damaged bit of cord. If I went back I thought it would be nice to put something back in and put a second maillon on a lot of climbs. If the bolt was to go the UV cord would do nowt. You could just replace the cord, but the maillon would be more long term.
craig h - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Re. the guide books - Does Hassan Mouhajir climb himself and would he be in his early 30's now?

We started a young lad from one of the hotels in the middle of gorge climbing in the early 90's, he was called Hassan, nice if it was!

54ms - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to craig h:

Yes he does and hard (by my standards anyway), but every third person we met in Morroco was called Hassan. Could be your man, although I think he has done most of his climbing and bolting with spannish and french teams.
Glyn Jones - on 26 Feb 2008
In reply to craig h: I honestly don't know but Hassan looked like he was in his 40's
SteveM - on 04 Mar 2008
In reply to Duncan_S:

Nice idea. We're heading out to Todra at the end of this month so I shall pack some spare ones.

Regarding the bolting, I've seen several mentions about bolt hangers going missing on climbs on the gorge. Was this an historic issue or is it still an ongoing problem?

Is it worth taking some hangers along to replace any missing ones?

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