/ NEWS: Tom Randall Climbs Amazing 20ft+ Ceiling Crack near Bath

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Michael Ryan - on 29 Feb 2008
Tom Randall has experienced an epic journey to climb a 20ft+ limestone ceiling crack, his dream project, that he discovered 4 years ago near his parents house at Sally-in-the-Woods near Bath, Somerset.

The climbing is incredibly complex and powerful. Tom has offered a grade of V11 or Font 8a and the name, All Elements.

As anyone who has had a long term bouldering project like this will know, it is incredibly satisfying to achieve success. You find something and just think you may be able to climb it, and so you begin,...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=02&year=2008#n42811
johncoxmysteriously - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Nice one - good effort Tom.

jcm
Sam L - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: What is the access situation here? Last I heard was the owner was OK with people climbing but not with any publicity. If that is the case, a worldwide announcement like this might jeopardise access??
Sam L - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Sam L: But good effort though-looks awesome!
Chris F - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Sam L: Yes it will. I think it may be a good idea to remove this thread or jeapordise access.

Please Mick?
Michael Ryan - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Chris F:

I'm sorry but no.

"There were some initial queries regarding the access to the venue but according to Tom the crag is "on common land so access is no problem , I've checked with the local council about this"."

as per Greg Chapman's excellent website, http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/

Just follow the link to the source.

Cheers,

Mick
Chris F - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I dearly hope you and Tom are right, even though it is so far away that it no longer affects me one way or the other.

I'm sure we will find out soon enough.
Sam L - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I hope you are right. My understanding was that it was on a farmer's land. I should think the damage has been done if I am right.
Sam
Lemony - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Either way it's an awesome looking problem. Well done!
Michael Ryan - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Sam L:

I was waiting on running this report until the access situation was cleared. I've also notified the BMC to double check. It is also on several other websites and the name of the place was actually publicised by someone else several weeks ago.

A significant ascent, a great line and well done Tom who is in Font at the moment.

Mick
Sam L - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I'd have been suprised if the BMC knew about it to be honest. Anyway, it seems like it checks out which is good. Looks like a superb problem, and a significant one for the area. Nice to see some Somerset action in the news!
Sam
TomPR - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Hi Mick and all here's the access info:


To anyone that's worrying about access issues, then I've spoken to a Bath County Councillor and the Footpaths Access Team and they have assured me there's no problems (except that you're not allowed to mountain bike there). It's a pretty limited area really, so I don't suppose much will ever change. Having spent the last 8 yrs or so cleaning up problems in the area I'm quite fond of the place - hopefully some others might get an occasional afternoon's pleasure out of it too.

I sort of avoided going the UKC route as I was worried out access to some degree and also to avoid any bitching - yes I'm a big wuss.
Michael Ryan - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Sam L:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) I'd have been suprised if the BMC knew about it to be honest.


I can find no trace of it in the BMC Regional Access Database searching under Bathford Woods or Sally in the Woods.

Mick
Michael Ryan - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to TomPR:

Thanks Tom.

Mick
Gordon Stainforth - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Truly incredible moves round the lip - well, I guess the whole things desperate, including that 180 degree turn.
Michael Ryan - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

You can read more about Tom at UKClimbing.com, I Want That Job! - Tom Randall, Professional Route Setter by Jack Geldard here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=798
Chris the Tall - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to TomPR:
Nice one Tom!

Like the video, but ditch the music.....
FoCkerWOLf on 29 Feb 2008 - 80-193-195-253.cable.ubr12.azte.blueyonder.co.uk
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:


good stuff
Duncan Disorderly - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Good effort Tom!

:D
Simon - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to TomPR:


Very Sharma-esque Tom, served with a veritable slice of cheesy Rock - you could have been in Hueco!!

...good effort lad ... keep em coming...

Si
ads.ukclimbing.com
Graham Hoey - on 29 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Knowing Tom, one things for sure, the grade won't be right :) !!!
Only joking, come back soon Tom, more new routes needed at the wall, we've got through the last lot!
graham
whistler - on 01 Mar 2008
good effort!! Looks like an amazing route. Don't spoil your videos with crap music! Could be worse I suppose
Michael Ryan - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to whistler:
> Don't spoil your videos with crap music!

Musical taste is personal.

In my opinion and JUST FOR ME - I enjoyed the music - what is the track called?

Musical taste is personal.
Musical taste is personal.
Musical taste is personal.
Musical taste is personal.
Musical taste is personal.
Simon - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

>
> Musical taste is personal.
> Musical taste is personal.
> Musical taste is personal.
> Musical taste is personal.
> Musical taste is personal.



Sorry - I'm not sure what your saying? Come again!?!

;0P
Michael Ryan - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Simon:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> [...]
>
>
>
> Sorry - I'm not sure what your saying? Come again!?!

It's OK Simon..get to bed. Only 7.55 pm here in NY, repetition is useful but still some don't understand that musical taste is personal....

musical taste is personal
musical taste is personal
musical taste is personal
Mike Stretford - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to TomPR: Enjoyed the video, thought the music sync in well. Well done.
Toby S - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Enjoyed the video, much as I enjoy a good bit of cheesy rock I did think the music was pish and didn't match up well with the film. Just my opinion though :0) The route looks f'kin nails! Well done to him.
catt on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to TomPR:

Cool video, good effort. Liked the music, works well!
Ropeboy - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to TomPR:

Nice one Tom. ;-)

J :-)
Karl Wooffindin - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Massive waddage for this Tom! Well chuffed you got it done :D
Gordon Stainforth - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to Simon)
> [...]
>
> It's OK Simon..get to bed. Only 7.55 pm here in NY, repetition is useful but still some don't understand that musical taste is personal....
>
> musical taste is personal
> musical taste is personal
> musical taste is personal

But Simon is getting at an important point. That 'musical taste is personal' is exactly why it sometimes doesn't work in movie for many people - a point that makers of climbing films often forget.

Michael Ryan - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
>
> But Simon is getting at an important point. That 'musical taste is personal' is exactly why it sometimes doesn't work in movie for many people - a point that makers of climbing films often forget.

A point that most makers of climbing films are very aware of. They make a complex call on what music they use in their films often with great success.

YouTube videos, or climbing shorts not made for mass distribution often feature music personal to the filmmaker or climber, and in the case of bouldering shorts often feature music popular amongst boulderers.

Mick
Michael Ryan - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
>
> But Simon is getting at an important point.


PS, Simon didn't have a point.
Wee Davie - on 01 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

>YouTube videos, or climbing shorts not made for mass distribution often feature music personal to the filmmaker or climber, and in the case of bouldering shorts often feature music popular amongst boulderers.

Thanks for that fantastic insight into video production Mick.

Even if musical taste is personal, there is never any excuse to feature My Chemical Romance in any video. They are keich.
Even if musical taste is personal, there is never any excuse to feature My Chemical Romance in any video. They are keich.
Even if musical taste is personal, there is never any excuse to feature My Chemical Romance in any video. They are keich.



Davie
Sircumfrins - on 02 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Excellent video! It looks like an amazing problem! Congratulations!
The music could be better though... :0)
Michael Ryan - on 02 Mar 2008
In reply to Wee Davie:

Cool it Davie and go and read this..and give us your measured insight

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=848
Wee Davie - on 02 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Done. Still think My Chemical Romance are appalling though!

Davie
Michael Ryan - on 02 Mar 2008
In reply to Wee Davie:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> Done. Still think My Chemical Romance are appalling though!

I'm not a big fan either.
Paz - on 03 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
>
> I can find no trace of it in the BMC Regional Access Database searching under
> Bathford Woods or Sally in the Woods.
>

That's because it got left out of the guidebook and pulled from UKB precisely because, well if not because of access issues then to appease the sensitivities of the local copicer (not the land owner) who didn't want anything appearing on the internet or in print. This seemed to me at least to screw Bath area climbers over big time.

Tom it looks ace! Can you send me details of where it is in relation to`Mike's boulder' and the `warm up slab' etc. Do you know where TH's hand traverses are too?

TomPR - on 04 Mar 2008
In reply to Paz:

Hi Paz, go up from the layby in the road and walk to the far right end of the woods - you can't miss it. Big cave! The traverse goes along the lip - Tim might claim he did it first, but....

The cave has only 2 real problems, the traverse and the crack. Both are ok, and probably only interest to those who like steep stuff and are desperate to find some rock somewhere! Not as good as the other stuff in the woods in terms of quality of limestone.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Marc C - on 04 Mar 2008
In reply to TomPR: Great stuff (couldn't hear the music because haven't got any sound on this computer - maybe a blessing?). Found the spotter adopted an overly casual approach for my liking, though - if I'd been (capable of) doing those moves around the lip, I'd have wanted a team of rugby players wearing goalkeeping gloves about 4 inches beneath me!) :)
Paz - on 05 Mar 2008
In reply to TomPR:

Cheers. Why didn't you call it 20 foot crack? ;-).
Chris F - on 05 Mar 2008
In reply to Paz: because its 20ft+ ?
Paz - on 06 Mar 2008
In reply to Chris F:

So?
Chris F - on 06 Mar 2008
In reply to Paz:
> (In reply to Chris F)
>
> So?

It should be called 20ft+ crack then.

Never mind.

Simon S - on 11 Mar 2008
In reply to TomPR:
> (In reply to Paz)
>
> Hi Paz, go up from the layby in the road and walk to the far right end of the woods - you can't miss it. Big cave! The traverse goes along the lip - Tim might claim he did it first, but....
>
>


Tim has claimed it as a first ascent for the simple reason that he was the first! I notice that you haven't explained who did it first?? Care to enlighten me of a name and date?
Paz - on 11 Mar 2008
In reply to Simon S:

Is this the one that was briefly overshadowed by a bit of `8b' hype?
Michael Ryan - on 11 Mar 2008
In reply to Paz:
> (In reply to Simon S)
>
> Is this the one that was briefly overshadowed by a bit of `8b' hype?

Have you done the problem?

TomPR - on 12 Mar 2008
In reply to Simon S:

No, actually I think I'll just take that back - just a case of childish retro-claiming from me that I think I'll avoid - I'll gladly let the names etc stay. Anyway - good work to Tim who's be trying for the second ascent of All Elements recently. :)

What was the 8b hype Paz? Over Tim's traverse or the crack? In either case, 8b is way off (IMHO).
Mick Ward - on 12 Mar 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Have just seen this - bloody hell, it's brilliant. Thanks for putting it on. Was willing him around the lip (not that he needed any help!) Fantastic effort. Really inspirational.

Mick
cornishben - on 12 Mar 2008
In reply to TomPR: think the '8b hype' as Paz puts it, was over Tims rising traverse up the LH side of the big overhanging boulder down in the Garlic Meadow (other side of the road). It's a long rising traverse on pockets up the side of the boulder (which is never more than about 5ft high!) and kind of suits the shorter climber. Think he muted an 8a route grade as its fairly long, but not sure what the conclusion was
robin mueller - on 12 Mar 2008
In reply to cornishben:

So where exactly is Sally-in-the-Woods - road name, approach details etc? I know a few people who live nearby who'd like to check it out.

Anyone feel like making an entry in the UKC crag database?
cornishben - on 12 Mar 2008
In reply to robin mueller: Take the road to Bradford-On-Avon at the end of the Bathampton bypass, the road then rises up through woodland, there's a layby on the left about 1/2mile into the woods, park here for the main areas, which are up to the left
robin mueller - on 12 Mar 2008
In reply to cornishben:

Cheers.
Chris F - on 12 Mar 2008
In reply to robin mueller: Go slowly, as it's a apin to get back to if you miss it. Follow the path leftwards for Mike's boulder which is probably the best place to start on your first visit. Watch where you stand when you cross the fence at the layby, many landmines, both canine and human.

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