UKC

Me and my girlfriend are off to america for two weeks in a month,flying to colorado springs and staying there for two or three days because my girlfriend has got to do some work stuff there and then we are going to head in the direction of indian creek then onto red rocks because we are flying back from vegas.Does anyone know of any cool places for me to go around colorado springs eg.single pitch crags,bouldering spots or worst case a good indoor wall??Was also wondering about what gear to take to indian creek?Obviously lots of cams but how many of the same size are we going to need?I've seen the return to sender dvd and if that is anything to go by the cracks seem to be the same size all the way up?I've heard that there are climbing shops where you can hire cams?Is this true?Also does anybody have any recommendation's for tower's to do in the canyonlands?Upto about 5.10c gradewise? Any info would be most welcome!!!

In reply to mikekeswick:

>Does anyone know of any cool places for me to go around colorado springs eg.single pitch crags,bouldering spots or worst case a good indoor wall??

If you have a whole free, then Shelf Road is pretty good sport climbing. The locals love it; to be honest it's not as good as any European limestone, but it's as good as limestone gets in the lower-49. In Colorado Springs itself there's Garden of the Gods - not climbed there myself but apparently I 'should definitely check it out'.


>Was also wondering about what gear to take to indian creek?Obviously lots of cams but how many of the same size are we going to need?I've seen the return to sender dvd and if that is anything to go by the cracks seem to be the same size all the way up?I've heard that there are climbing shops where you can hire cams?Is this true? Any info would be most welcome!!!

If you're climbing in the 5.10 range (which you say you are), then lots of #2 and #3 camalots (i.e. gold and blue - can't remember the size in Friends). At least 5 of each would not be overkill. I have not heard of gear shops renting cams, I would be surprised to be honest, but you might try a google search for Moab climbing gear and see what turns up. Also remember that, especially with the dollar being so crap, camalots are excellent value in the US for UK buyers. 5.11 routes tend to be narrower, so I would say more 0.5 and 0.75 camalots (i.e. purple and green)

Also does anybody have any recommendation's for tower's to do in the canyonlands?Upto about 5.10c gradewise?

The Six-shooters are almost in Indian Creek and there are routes in your grade. The 'classic' moderate towers in the area are in the Castle Valley. Most of the towers, esp. Castleton Tower, are a bit more solid than, say, the classic desert tower experience of somewhere like the Fischer Towers. I would recommend the Supertopos select desert tower book (www.supertopo.com)

In general, I would also suggest that you check out one of the US climbing fora (rockclimbing.com or supertopo.com)

In reply to mikekeswick:

There's a great indoor gym (think it's on 55th st) google map search for "pearl parkway" Boulder, CO and you'll find it.

There's plenty of rock near and around Boulder, plenty of climbers too, everyone is a 5.13 or above there!!!!

Redrocks is amazing (scare yourself shitless on "risky business", i may be going back there late April, i'm flying into Phoenix around the 20th and going to Indian Creek, then maybe sedona for some 1st ascents, and then after that up to Smith Rocks. Ahhhh i can't wait

In reply to WillinLA: Thanks for the info guys!!Save my pennies for camalots then get them over there?Sounds like a plan!I so can't wait!

In reply to mikekeswick:

yep, at least half a dozen each of friends 2.5 to 3 would be about the minimum you would get away with at indian creek for climbing 5.10's. the harder you climb the more sizes (particularly narrower) you will need. as said above they are pretty cheap in the states at the mo, think it was about $60 or £30 for a camalot when i was in the gunks last october. not sure about hiring any, but we stayed at the adventure inn, moab a couple of years ago and the guy who runs it was good enough to lend us his rack. can't remember his name i'm afraid.

must do towers in the moab area are ancient art (5.8)at fisher towers and either north chimney or kor inglis route (both 5.9 ish) on castleton tower. don't know much about any others.

and.....red rocks is perhaps the best area i have ever climbed in!!

enjoy

In reply to WillinLA:

This is solid advice, imo. On a lot of classic 5.10s someone who is not willing to leap-frog a lot (which would indicate more than 5.10 ability) is going to need at least 5 WC #2.5s and 5 #3s.

In reply to jwi: Yep,cheers for the info,it has been most helpful guys!Only two n a bit weeks to go...almost wetting myself in anticipation...

In reply to mikekeswick:
The towers routes generally rely less on multiples of cam sizes than Indian Creek, so if you dont manage to round up extras you wont be completely shut down. Theres definitely more of the Tower stuff in the Castle Valley/river road area. Desert Climbs III (Bjornstadt) covers the best of it.
Enjoy
andy

In reply to mikekeswick:
when i went i had two sets of cams....

but due to the nature of the climbing, if you camp in one of the popular spots then make friends with whoever is there.
I really enjoyed it, and i was "by myself" but everyone seems to get into a gang of climbers, and borrow everyones kit

just get stuck in, and be sociable and it will be a trip to remember

In reply to mikekeswick: Utah is an incredible place, just got back from there. Bought a wild country tech friend (+ free krab) for £30 ish in Moab. Rigid stems (ok in bigger sizes) were about £22 so only a bit cheaper than here but I didn't price up Camelots.
The http://www.mountainproject.com/ website has loads of info as does http://www.supertopo.com/ and they also do a guidebook to the desert towers.
If you're heading to Vegas after Indian creek I'd recommend heading south through Monument valley, accross northern Arizona to Page and then through Zion ($25 fee) to get there. Its the most incredible days driving I've ever done and I've clocked up a lot of US road miles. That said, if you go further north through Green river and down to Capitol Reef before Bryce Canyon and Zion you won't be disappointed.