UKC

Not sure whether this should be under BMC or MCoS, but as I am a BMC member maybe they can fly my flag!!

I saw on the database for Ratho that outdoor climbing had been done in Febuary, so toddled over last week to find that climbing is still banned on the quarry outside the climbing wall (he said it was dangerous, saw my expression, agreed that climbing was dangerous and then said that they would have to clear up the pieces when we fell off...) and that the guy that had been climbing there in Febuary had been kicked off.

I can understand access problems when smelly, dirty climbers s£$t all over someones back garden, etc... But to have an access problem on some of the best low/middle extremes in the central belt when it is in the back garden of a climbing wall seems wrong. I was also told that a type of owl was being moved into the outdoor bit of the quarry and that would stop climbing completly.

Do you think this is fair?

Can the BMC or MCoS speak to Edinburgh Council and arrange permission for climbers to use the quarry and confirm what the receptionist meant when he said that the owls would prevent further climbing?

As I see it, the wall was built there to allow indoor trad leading. This is not going to happen due to insurance problems, and what in effect has happened is that a good climbing venue has been closed completely to climbers. If this had been advertised when planning permission was submitted, it would never have got off the drawing board, so does it have a legal justification to be there now?

Curiously Jonnie.

In reply to jonnie3430:

we've been climbing there regularly recently (....we'll actually ive always been too lazy to drag my ass out of bed on a sunday morning!) but my fellow punters have been there a lot recently and we thought the access issue had been solved

if there is still a problem there are many of us willing raise this issue to whatever level is required to allow continued climbing in the quarry.

it just seems insane to deny access to a high quality, easily accesible quarry right next to an 'International climbing arena' supposed to be the best in the world, that should be encouraging outdoor climbing and not destroy traditions!

In reply to Neil Mackenzie:

I don't mind waiting for access to be arranged (or rather I do, but see that it is neccessary,) but what the wee fellow at the desk said has me worried. It seemed that they had some alternative plan for that part of the quarry to do with owls (!) and this would prevent access in the future. I agree that something needs to be done to allow access and will e-mail BMC and MCoS to see what they have to say.

Jonnie

In reply to jonnie3430:
As far as im aware there is a committie for the area, mcos are part of this and have agreed to owl sanctury, not sure of the implications of the climbing. There is only a couple of decent routes there anyway, the rest are crap and loose. Climbing there about 2 years ago and knocked a large block of almost hitting my belayer. Also seen somebody deck when they pulled a block off last last year. They were only about 20ft up but still!!

In reply to hammer: If climbing on any route that has been neglected you'd expect a bit of cleaning to be in order. If you're pulling off blocks and nearly mincing your belayer you need to review your technique and watch what your pulling on. Some nice solid aretes though, bold but good. I was speaking to a guy that has the contract of building 14 aviaries for the Scottish Owl Centre, to be housed in the quarry. The biggest one is to be attached in part to the rock somehow I believe.
You can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs though. Having seen the plans for the new comp wall the facility is going to be the best in the world. Not bad on your doorstep.

In reply to jonnie3430: I've been up there for a few sessions recently, no problems at all. First outing in Feb. some staff came to tell us that climbing in quarry is dangerous, duhhh! They seemed very positive about the future of climbing in the quarry. However might have all changed with this planned owl sanctuary.

Sounds like the guy at reception was talking out his ass and trying to frighten you off. Climbing is not banned they can't do this; they can only advise you and ask you to leave. Either wonder round the back and use the fire escape tagged onto ratho (just round from the back of tisos) or use the new monstrosity they just built. If anyone comes and tells you to leave just refuse.

Go out and enjoy while you can mate. Can highly recommend "Ourobourus" and "Beanpud" for starters.

In reply to Hammer: I've climbed loads here and the only poor route I've done is "monkey puzzler". If you can climb E's there's plenty of quality to be had.

Seriously though wtf owls? Even if they do build some kind of Sanctuary it will not shut the climbing down completely there's a bloody big fire escape and thousands of tones of scree/boulders in the way. Routes around “Beanpud” and “this septic hell “should all ways be there. Would be a real
same to lose the other side though, that's the best bit left.

In reply to jonnie3430: Oh aye and please report the access issue here http://www.mcofs.org.uk/access-reporting.asp

In reply to jonnie3430:

F**k the owls !!!!

In reply to Samuel:


Are the proposals available in the public domain or are they still under wraps? I'd be interested in seeing what's in store.

In reply to jonnie3430:

After a lot of procrastination, I finally e-mailed the MCoS who were kind enough to reply a hour later to say that climbing is allowed, except for the crumbling back wall. If you have any dramas reply on this and I will let MCoS know.

Jonnie

In reply to jonnie3430:

I do know one of the instructors did an E3 there not long ago! Dont think he would have done it if climbing wasn't allowed.

In reply to jonnie3430:

Don't really understand how they can define where can and cannot be climbed? If you can climb in the quarry, you can climb in any of it surely. Don't see that the back wall is that much more crumbly than the rest of the quarry anyway.

In reply to Fraser: The plans for the new wall are out and should be up on the Eica website. Atlease thats what they said when asked.
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Climbing is allowed.

Access also isn't an issue you just have to gain said access by going round the centre to the right and down the fire escape stairs instead of tramping through the facility.

If they notice you climbing chances are they'll send someone out to warn you of the dangers and advise you that you're climbing at your own risk.

But thats just down to fear of liability from the centre management I believe. Its a shocking state of affairs in the world when a climbing centre next to real rock has to worry but such is life now

And look how nice Edinburgh leisure were, They've even stuck in a great big set of stairs to get back down to the quarry base in!

In reply to jonnie3430: Good stuff now that the mcofs have confirmed hope the receptionist gets a good spanking.

In reply to andymoin: Oh yeh and when's the ratho clean up going to be then?

In reply to jonnie3430:

Just to update on Ratho, they are putting signs up to warn that "Edinburgh Leisure take no resp....." They should be up in the next few weeks and a fence to stop children falling off the top will be finished around then too, when they will be happy to let us climb there. Until then, I suggest you keep climbing and are discreet....

As for the owls, they are staying away from the cliffs and shouldn't impact on climbing!

See you down there...

Jonnie

In reply to jonnie3430:

And a wee update for anyone thinking of climbing there;
http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Ratho_Quarry

In reply to jonnie3430:

Was talking to a pal who works at Ratho. She said the same - the actual outside quarry is still public access so they have to let you through to it and can't stop you climbing. Crack on.

In reply to jonnie3430:

The quary has never been shut... just being a council facility they have been doing a number of 'audits' and 'surveys', during which time they recomended that you didnt climb.

The quary walls have now been fenced off, and to get to them you need to use outdoor acess (no going thru the centre), and then go through a gate with a warning, and stating that you 'climb at your own risk'.

In reply to andymoin: Greetings fellow owl lovers, i also am told that some of you can climb?

Personally i think that the symbiotic relationship that would be created between owl and climbing man would pose no threat to future climbing at Ratho and in fact, climbing is restricted due to the negative findings of the recent geological survey of the quarry by the British Geological Society.

As far as i understand it, climbing was never to be restricted due to the presence of the owl centre. Could there be a missing link here somewhere as i have heard the aviary count to be around the 50 mark?

In reply to R Weiner:

Are you really serious about this? It sounds amazing!