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NEW ARTICLE: Catalunya — Winter 07/08 by Pete O'Donovan

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 Jack Geldard 01 Apr 2008
Catalunya is rarely out of the news. The exceptional winter of 07/08 (the driest here for 60 years) has seen unprecedented levels of activity, with a squad of the world’s top climbers almost queuing up to repeat the hardest routes.


Pete O’Donovan documents the activities of Dani Andrada, Edu Marin, Ramon Julian, Patxi Usobiaga, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra in the steep cave of Santa Linya.

Read More (With Stunning Photography): http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=854
 Morgan Woods 01 Apr 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Brilliant article Pete, current, well written and looks at things like grades, style etc.

Would have also been nice to have a profile of Daila included as she is one of the stronger female climbers in that area....(plus she's very hot);o
TimS 01 Apr 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: An interesting and well written article - Santa Linya looks amazing!
OP Jack Geldard 01 Apr 2008
In reply to TimS: I know, it looks amazing - did you spot the climber in the 5th photo? Gobsmacking.

I think I know where I want to go on holiday..

Jack
 Morgan Woods 01 Apr 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

bottom left maybe....is he hanging upside down?
 Jus 01 Apr 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I saw a climber trying to onsight a 40 or 50 metre 8a+ in that cave in Rodellar, trying everything in his power to get to the top. He failed with only 1 or 2 clips to go.

I think the easiest route in that cave is 8a, it's incredible to look at!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

It looks like the photo quality could do with up'ing a bit to get rid of the jpg artifacts. You'd probably be able to see the climber a bit better then.
 Alun 01 Apr 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> I think I know where I want to go on holiday..

Hee hee I live here! (well, not in Santa Linya, but Catalunya at least).

Great article by the way. The quality of the articles on UKC has been very high recently.
 Michael Ryan 01 Apr 2008
In reply to Alun:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
>


> Great article by the way. The quality of the articles on UKC has been very high recently.

Spread the word Alun.

 Ramon Marin 01 Apr 2008
In reply to Alun:

I agree, top writing!

Good job Pete
 Jon Read 02 Apr 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Good article -- enjoyed it a lot. Always enjoy seeing articles about non-uk climbing and climbers.
 burge 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Pete, Sorry to hear about the hands. I am well into my 60s now, however I needed the same surgery ten years back in the same format left hand then right hand. The operations were a success, painless and I even watched the surgeon do the cutting from a well placed mirror. I still have good strength in my hands apart from the little left hand finger which the surgeon could not really fix. The clutch lever on my Norton pinned it to the road in a accident. Good luck. Burge
 Pete O'Donovan 03 Apr 2008
In reply to burge: Hi Burge, Thanks - actually I just had the first op yesterday. Like yours, my operation was entirely painless, and I too would very much have liked to see what was going on, but unfortunately wasn't offered a mirror, and never thought to ask for one. I did, however, ask the surgeon to hold the hand up for me to see before he closed the incisions, and the anesthetist very kindly agreed to take a picture (on his 2MP mobile phone!), which he's emailed to me this morning. Now I'll have a complete 'before, during and after' set.
I'd be very interested to know if you've either met, or heard of, any other climbers suffering from Dupuytren's? I certainly have, and though I realize that this disease is not particularly rare, it seems to me that there could be a link - despite what all the medical experts say about Dupuytren's having nothing to do with physical traumas.
Regards,
Pete.


 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

What are you doing typing? Get some proper rest....!

Great article, Peter, and fantastic photographs as ever.

Cheers

Neil
 Morgan Woods 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

Hi Pete - hope all goes well with the op.

back to the climbing:

- was having a look at:

http://bp3.blogger.com/_FuLZy5Xca74/R2WeipumKhI/AAAAAAAAADQ/8p60j-RuzZg/s16...

and it seems just as many hard lines at Santa Linya have been put up by this guy Victor Fedz.....is he one of the hardest climbers we've never heard of?
 duncan 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

Excellent photos and article.

Regarding Dupuytren's, current thinking suggests there is more to it than having Viking ancestors. Some people have found an association with manual work, http://tinyurl.com/2nawyr , so it is not a big leap to suggest that climbing might predispose.

Beard ownership, beer-drinking and Whillans harness wearing also seem to be risk factors: http://bjsm.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/39/9/639
 Pete O'Donovan 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Neil Foster: Hi Neil, I am typing with one finger - just one less than normal, so it's no great hardship.
As regards rest and recovery: I did actually get breakfast in bed this morning, though the acutely raised eyebrows of the provider seemed to say "don't get used to it", so I won't!
Regards,
Pete.
 Pete O'Donovan 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Morgan Woods: Hi Morgan, Victor Fernández, is a very well known figure on the Catalan climbing scene. He's been around for years and equipped hundreds (if not thousands) of new routes. Although no mean climber himself (8b+ redpoints, 8a onsight), he's not quite up with the likes of Andrada, Ramonet, etc.
The reason his name appears next to many of the routes on the Santa Linya topo is because he equipped them - that's the way it generally goes in Spain - crediting the guy who put the route up, rather than the first ascentionist.
Regards,
Pete.
 Morgan Woods 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods) > The reason his name appears next to many of the routes on the Santa Linya topo is because he equipped them - that's the way it generally goes in Spain - crediting the guy who put the route up, rather than the first ascentionist.
> Regards,
> Pete.

ahh that would explain it then.
 Nic 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

> the way it generally goes in Spain - crediting the guy who put the route up, rather than the first ascentionist.

Blimey - I'm off to Spain, I've always wanted to bag a 9a!

 Pete O'Donovan 03 Apr 2008
In reply to duncan: Hi Duncan, although I've so far only read the conclusions (going to sit here and read the whole thing now) the study carried out in your second link seems to answer all my questions. I wonder why nobody has told the hand-consultants about this?
Pete.
 johnwarburton 03 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan: Hi Pete i have the beginnings of it in my little finger ,right hand.I,m 58 now and still climbing reasonably hard,can you tell me if its possible on the Nat. Health or is it quicker to go private??Also how long is the recovery period.

Thanks John.
 Pete O'Donovan 03 Apr 2008
In reply to johnwarburton: Hi John, I had a private consultation, but the actual operation was done on the NHS. Time between the two was just over 3 months. Unless you've got private health insurance I can't really see the point in paying for private treatment - the condition progresses so slowly. Mind you, after two last minute cancellations over the past couple of weeks, I was almost ready to reconsider.
Recovery? I'll let you know!
Pete.
 gimmer 23 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:
Hi Pete,
I have the same thing too, as only I'm 30 yrs old I'm not consdering an op yet but I think it will happen at some point in the future. As a climber operating at a pretty high level, would you be able write something about the rehab after the op and how it has affected your climbing long term?
I have spoken to a number of other climbers on UKC who have the same problem so definitely be some interest there.
Best wishes,
Al
 Pete O'Donovan 23 Apr 2008
In reply to gimmer: Hi Al,
According to the statistics,30 is extremely young to be developing Dupuytren's, even if you have strong hereditary tendencies. Do you have the full-blown growths or just the nodules?
Regarding actual surgery, current wisdom says that later is better than sooner, unless it gets to the point where you're actually impaired.
It's now exactly three weeks since my first op, and things are looking OK. The incisions are healing nicely and, as far as I can tell, there is absolutely no detrimental effect to the underlying tendons. Last Thursday, when the stitches came out, the Doctor told me that I shouldn't start climbing again for at least six weeks, though this seems a little on the cautious side to me. However, as my second op (right hand) is scheduled for May 21st, I'll effectively be out of action 'till late June anyway. Although the tendons are still a little tight, I can almost put the palm of my hand down flat on a table for the first time in years!
You're right about the level of interest in Dupuytrens — there certainly seems to be a strong link between climbing and the early onset of the condition. I've taken before and after pictures, and may well write an article about my experiences, once the healing process is complete.
Regards,
Pete.
In reply to Pete O'Donovan: Interesting to hear info about Dupuytrens, i know quite a few people with it and a good friend of mine has developed it recently.....hes only 22/23!....will direct him to this thread for more info....

Great article by the way, very inspired by Santa Linya...
 scott titt 23 Apr 2008
In reply to north country boy and others:
here is a link to an article Can rock climbing lead to Dupuytren's disease? http://bjsm.bmj.com/cgi/content/abstract/39/9/639
 gimmer 23 Apr 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:
Hi Pete,
I was about 22 when I first noticed it and went to the doctor! It is definitely hereditary in my case - grandmother & dad both have it and have had ops on both hands. Although it was also about that age that I started doing a lot of climbing and cycling. On my left hand it is just nodules in the palm but hasn't progressed to the point where it has caused the fingers to bend inwards. My right hand is worse - little finger has a large growth on the tendon and is always bent, luckily I do have flexible fingers so the little finger tends to bend backwards at the knuckle to compensate. It's funny though that I don't think it has really affected my climbing - on sports routes I'm probably climbing harder than ever before.
Good to hear that recovery is going well & all the best for the next op.
Cheers,
Al
 JayNewfarm 30 Apr 2008
Yup, this was a brilliant article... just the stuff I look to UKC for...

Jay

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