UKC

Should Dyno's Be Given Grades?

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 Chazz 16 Apr 2008
Following on from comments here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=84729

In my opinion they can't. Grades are entirely subjective anyway, but the grade of a morpho problem depends on such different factors... then again I'm crap at them.


Discuss.
Ian Straton 16 Apr 2008
In reply to Chazz: some dynos are harder than others therefore a grading scale is appropriate, whether the scale as used for non nyno problems is a different question.
 GrahamD 16 Apr 2008
In reply to Chazz:

Grades are NOT entirely subjective. A grade is (or becomes) a concensus of difficulty amongst a large population over a period of time. Its very rare that an experienced climber makes a grade estimation more than one grade removed from where the concensus lies.
OP Chazz 16 Apr 2008
In reply to GrahamD: Well the perceived difficulty is subjective. In that V7 may be at one person's limit and feel nails, while the same V7 might be used as a warm up for some.

Likewise a V7 slab may feel harder/easier than a V7 roof and a V7 dyno may feel harder/easier than a V7 thin wall climb. Hence, subjective depending on strengths/weaknesses.
fred_stone 16 Apr 2008
In reply to Chazz: the fact you're able to compare grades between dynos, slabs, roofs etc. sort of shows that they (grades) are quite useful no??

besides, who then decides what's a dyno and what's not? what if you have a 5 move problem with the last move a dyno - how would you grade the route? ignore the difficulty of the last move / have the problem stop below the dyno???

silly thread


 mickyconnor 16 Apr 2008
In reply to Chazz: Relative, not subjective. If they were subjective they would need to be rejigged for each climber. So in your first example the problem is say V10 for the "feels like nails" climber and V1 for superman. (This is probably off since I don't really boulder under the V system)
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 16 Apr 2008
In reply to Chazz: Yes, dyno's should be graded, as these are what i use to boost my average bouldering grade, by being really rather good at them, where i am not so hot at everything else, i've got a mate over here in Bangor who boulders V12, but if theres a jump involved i kick his arse every time, it makes me feel good
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 17 Apr 2008
In reply to mickyconnor: Grades immediately after the first ascent are somewhat subjective, but become relative with repeats, for example, there was a V11 in north wales which had its first ascent by one of the best boulderers in the world, who shall remain nameless, which was the next day downgraded to V8 by some pretty good people admittedly, though not as good as the FA, how on earth did this guy give it that sort of grade? It must have just been hard for him.
i.munro 17 Apr 2008
In reply to Chazz:

Surely there's no such thing as a dyno problem/route. There's simply a piece of rock that some climbers find it is easiest to climb using a dyno.

In the same way there's no such thing as a jamming route. There's just a crack. How you choose to climb it is up to you.
In reply to i.munro:
So Rainbow Rocket, or Hale Bopp can be done without a dyno?
Stop being silly.
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