UKC

After reading this http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1552 i was thinking about ways to place backup belay points I would appreciate your opinions on ground anchors sutable for using for belaying and access from cliff tops .other than grinding down some angle iron to peg shapes ive googled around and found these http://www.forgetec4x4.co.uk/ , http://abacus-ise.co.uk/shop/tee-stake-p-542.html

Depends whether your leaving them in or not? If you are then those ones look fine, if a little expensive.

If you're carrying them then they need to be aluminium. Its really not hard or expensive to buy some angle and cut that up with a grinder. You dont even need to drill holes if you clove hitch slings on and make sure the stakes angled into the ground. 40-50cm is best.

In reply to james303:

The Army use 2 foot pickets made from iron that would be bombpoof as anchors (and many anchors are these!) I quickly googled them without result, but someone on here should know where you can get them.

J

In reply to james303:

There's a number of things you can do to back up peg and stake belays at the top of routes. Warning: Some of the following ideas are plain stupid and intended as a last resort only. If you use them you may well die anyway.

More pegs. Depending where you are it can be handy to have your own pegs and or stake. At worst the pegs can be used like tentpegs into the turf (best combined with prayer and a lightweight partner)!

Hooks. Quit laughing! Hooks will go places no other gear will and are pretty strong.

Natural 'anchors'. Rabbit/bird holes can sometimes be threaded or (in desperation) have a big cam rammed down them! They can also provide holes for your feet to go into. Natural shelves and hollows can form a belay seat.

Plants. Some plants can be surprisingly strong despite their meagre size. Knotted long grass for example is surprisingly strong, several knots equalised together would be a damn sight better than nothing.

Planning ahead. Bealying on the last of the good rock allows the leader to go a full 50+ (100+ if you tie your halves together) to a decent stance or some gear or over the crest of a hill.

If you're just looking for a removable stake I'd go to my local aluminium fabricator and buy 50cm of 40x4 angle and have him cut it to a spike. Or in reality I wouldn't spend any money, I'd rummage aroung in my scrap bin for something good enough.

jk

In reply to jkarran:

Sorry, I forgot to add the most sensible and safest one: Back it up with conventional rated lead gear. Small nuts and cams have come on a long way since a lot of the seacliff pegs went in.

jk