/ NEW ARTICLE: North York Moors by Franco Cookson & Dave Warb
"The honeymoon period between the late 60's and the early 80's saw many of the areas great classics climbed for the first time. The climbing boom was mirrored by the boom in industry on the Tees and both have since become dormant with the destruction of so many jobs and the scarcity of climbers in the area."
Franco Cookson and Dave Warburton explore their local crags on the North York Moors.
With photo's, area and accommodation guides and route recommendations.
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=893
Wot no Whitestonecliffe?
Nice work. Lots of good suggestions across the grades.
Good article and some ace pictures, good job.
For a bit more interest:
West Sphinx Direct - Wainstones http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=84915
Chairmans Climb - Park Nab
Great Views - Wainstones
Lovely Sunsets - Scugdale
Whitestone Cliffe (For Simon)
Ali Baba - Wainstones
Hope that helps to give an idea of the place.
In reply to DaveWarb: Whitestonecliff is definitely on the moors, especially if you're including Filey! That and peak scar are both great crags and very different in character to the others you've described. I reckon they'll see even less traffic now with the new rockfax guide though.
Don't get Franco started!
Anyway, the only way that Whitestone could see less traffic would be if we stopped going, I've been climbing there several times a year for 16 years and only ever met one other party there!
Theres soo many great crags that doing them all would be more like a guide than an article ;-). We were mainly thinking of Sandstone.
"Cosy Corner - Jam or layback? - take your pick"
I went for padding up the left side of the slab. Perhaps this is why we found it a bit hard for VDiff :)
I'm sure Franco moaned about my book only featuring Scugdale, The Wainstones, Ravenscar, Highcliff and Park Nab, so no-one would ever go anywhere else!
PS Despite what the local yoofs might say my spelling of Highcliff is the correct version!
You leave me no choice... have a check at YOUR spelling ;-)
There is an old saying int dale;
"Never cross the A1 to climb!"
I believe they say the same thing ont moors.
Don't get me wrong nice article and pics, just amused at the kettle and black situation!
Well spotted on the Highcliff(e) that was written way back before I checked it - now changed!
I think this is a great article - well done guys. You've put some effort into creating a concise, highly readable and interesting picture of your home patch. Its really good to get a local's view on the crags and routes, and provides something that complements even the best guidebooks (yes Chris Craggs - I do mean yours!).
i never did quite make it to whitestone cliff tho - my mates were just too chicken!
I think your guide will encourage people to visit (which is good), indeed i've seen quite a few people at Park Nab and Wainstones brandishing the Rockfax Guide!, i just hope people don't forget about the 'esoteric crags' they're worth a visit, i'd love to meet a group at Oak Crag or similar but i can't see it happening.
I've got loads of pictures of Peak Scar you could have used.
They're all rubbish mind, it's too gloomy to photograph easily, and you can't get far enough away for good panoramic shots.
Iam Glad you didnt include The Moors Limestone. It deserves a whole article of its own. Once you have explored Whitestone a little you will no what i mean.
and if anyone ever gets round to approving them
I wondered about doing a free MiniGuide for Peak Scar actually - but of course that would be one more reason for folks not to buy the 'definitive'!
Try and find a bored injured climber to drive you there one time. Maybe he could take photos.
(Simon - Quality, cheers)
I've not climbed properly for a couple of weeks, being feeling off and at the moment Franco's Exams are not corrolating with mine, so soloing is the only real thing to do and i can't be arsed bouldering at Cpt Cooks because the routes i want to do there need a rope (cockshaws and Cooks Crags) I will be ok when i pass my test next week ;-)
Have you done Clutcher? Well worth it, a classic chimney crack, just a pity the pigeons use it as a toilet :)
Do it! I already own Northern England, Northern Limestone and Yorkshire Gritstone, but am looking at getting the latest edition of Yorkshire Limestone as mine is a very old edition from a charity shop. I'll be buying the new North East England when it comes out.
If you live near an area I think its worth having several guidebooks. I like having the definitive guides, but until I've climbed most of the routes in Northern England, its the book that will go to the crag with me.
I bivied on the left hand side last Monday(I was walking), I was amazed at how thick the vegetation is on that side already. Will probably be more pleasant over the winter months.
Great article by the way guys, do keep meaning to get over there more, I've only managed one visit to Scugdale since I moved here in Jan and that got aborted midway through due to rain. Trouble is to many crags and not enough time, all the yorkshire git and limestone south of me, the lakes to the west, northumberland to the east and the moors to the east.
We were over there at the end of March/beginning of April and it was bad even then, brambles and trees rather than the usual nettles. And getting from there to the right hand end (as recommended in the guidebook) is as good as impossible now.
Gamin and Yangtze are currently unclimbale due to the vegetation. I'm trying to find out if a gardening session is feasible without risking a huge fine due to being an SSSI or some such!
Good article, certainly looks like there's enough there to keep a punter like me happy! I'll have to take a look if I'm ever down that way.
Out of interest how do you get to the lakes at the moment?
Get a lift across with some of the older climbers around here.
"Apart from the great Severe Highcliffe Crack there is barely anything of real quality in the lower grades"
other than North West Route, Heart Throb Crack, Highcliff Chimney, and Flake Crack :)
Damm, thought you had found some cross country public transport I didn't know about, my gf is in the lakes and doesn't drive. I'm finding it hard to belive that the only option is to get a train to manchester, then leeds, then up to darlington.
Agreed, NW, HTC and FC should have gotten a mention. And now they have.
Cheers for the kind words though, and cheers to Dooge and Lewis.
Hag Wood used to be good, if you like VS cracks. I guess it gets overgrown fairly quickly if people don't go there.
The crag facing across the valley (Applegate???) Always looked a bit chossy.
What is Orgate like? Is climbing allowed
And of course, my favorite, besest kept secret >whispers< Crag Willas.
Isn't everything in Swaledale really chossy? I seem to have vague memories to that effect...
Anyway good effort on the article, it's really well-written and informative!
It is a superb place to be on a summer evening. I wonder if the gap in the grades might hit you though? Loads VS and below(so I'm OK), plenty E3/4 and above. Not a huge amount in between.
The hill you can see to the South has to be Buckden Pike: terrific views!
The crag opposite Hagg Wood is something like Whillance's Leap (?) after some horse jumping carry on way back. I poked around there as a kid - its all pretty poor, even on the Swaledale scale! In fact I think we first spotted Hagg Wood from there!
Dave, it is limestone, not worth traveling if you have to do a mission on public transport, but once you drive you may fancy a visit over.
Hag Wood is quite nice, although the nettles have started growing which makes the walk in a bit of a drag, short as it is. The crag is still clean as I think the Swaledale outdoors club use it.
Yremenlaf, thanks for linking to my thread. I've had a bit more of a look at the place, the first few lines remain nice, a bit more traffic has cleaned the VS up nicely (though now feels more HS). The main line I had in mind which is unclimbed is to hard for me, small holds on a slightly overhanging wall, maybe f6c, I'm going back when I'm stronger, though maybe dave and franco may have more joy on it? There are a few more lines that look a bit easier, but still bold as. Someone I know suggested that we put pegs in them as they could be taken out after and not upset people. Some of the other easier lines are worth cleaning, but think others are best left to the plants.
Downholme is the nicest crag I've been to in the area, although its owned by the MOD and technically you should get permission to climb there. Redmire quarry looks awesome, but here tarmac are a bit more on the case about removing people and I shouldn't post about climbing there on forums.
> I'm sure Franco moaned about my book only featuring Scugdale, The Wainstones, Ravenscar, Highcliff and Park Nab, so no-one would ever go anywhere else!
> PS Despite what the local yoofs might say my spelling of Highcliff is the correct version!
> nah, tint.
Sorry, you may be right. I was using the Ordnance Survey maps - and what do they know!
Well they put a footpath going through our front door at work.
I've been once. We spent 45 minutes failing to find the crag and then went to Applegarth instead.
Park just past the campsite and walk up the hill till you see rock. No real footpath, just beat your way up. If your walking for more then 10 to 15 mins you've missed it.
Nice article - missed it before. Particularly like the adverb 'difficultly'.
Nice one lads, you've both done a great job - not sure about enouraging people to go to roseberry though ;0
Never had any difficulty: but the layby has been blocked off since I last went. There was a clear path.
I remember "Only a Rose" and a corner crack called "Cleavage" being particularly fine
To sum up: worth the effort, if you like VS cracks
Already done. :-) I think that picture of Ian was the one time he wasn't wearing them, as he got me addicted to them. I'm clean now though and don't even wear my Helly often, just some shitty trousers and a ripped T-shirt. I think they're good for winter climbing though.
> Nice one lads, you've both done a great job - not sure about enouraging people to go to roseberry though ;0
It's an experience, is it not? :-)
They've been approved now, and one of them's already got its first Rubbish vote - hurrah! :-)
I'd agree with many of the otherts in saying well done. If Beacon Scar is proving too difficult for you to get to, how about a feature on your local crag - Castleton Rigg Quarry?
The very same!
Have climbed quite a bit in your area. Really liked your article.
As Ian suggests, something in future on the limestone would be good too.
Are you and Franco coming down to the Peak in a couple of weeks?
The summer hols are just around the corner after these exam things they keep going on about.. A levels or something(!) :-) ....
Then the Peak is certainly going to be our main objective, along with the Lakes perhaps, infact Franco is there as i type this, as he hasn't got an exam on tuesday.
I have a half completed new edition to climbing on the North York Moors but after the recent events and Chris Craggs comments on here I don't know whether it will be viable to publish it now. How many would I be able to sell now that I would be competing against the recent Rockfax and the proposed free mini guides?
Would it be to an acceptable standard? What do climbers really want out of guidebooks these days?
I won't be doing MiniGuides (free or otherwise) to the Moors anytime in the foreseeable, it was something I had wondered about - but I have more than enough on at the moment.
If sometime down the line the definitive guide is unavailable, they might work as a gap-filler.
Anyne wanting to climb in the North York Moors will want to know about a lot more than the few crags covered in the Rockfax guide. So I hope you'll continue with the planned new edition, and I'm sure that a lot of us will be keen to help out in any way we can.
Much as I love the moors and their climbing, it's a bit of a backwater, not an area that currently attracts many 'outsiders' to travel there. Perhaps those who buy the Rockfax because of its coverage of Yorkshire grit or Northumberland will try the NYM crags, like what they find, and want to see what else there is? Which would lead to a few more sales of the definitive guide.
As for what constitutes an acceptable standard - other than the unusual choice of cover photo, and the questionable quality of the binding (most people's seem to fall to bits quite quickly), I've not heard many complaints. Maybe some topos of Peak Scar/Whitestone (easier said than done I know), add the crags that were omitted, but condense the coverage of some of the obscurities?
I really like your guide and prefer it to the Rockfax guide for being more comprehensive, especially with regard to the NYM's,
What do climbers really want out of guidebooks these days?
On several occasions I have helped out people using a Rockfax guide who wanted to know about a buttress that wasn't in their guide but was in the definitive (BMC) version. My preference is to use the definitive guides, though I do have a load of Rockfax on the shelves!
Would it be to an acceptable standard?
I have no problem with your already excellent guide to N.E. England. If this were revised I'd be number 1 in the queue for it. However I don't know the publishing business well enough to understand the impact of Rockfax publishing guides to the same area.
Thanks for a great guide.
I'm heading to wainstones tomorrow with a mate if either of you two need someone to climb with and are free?
I would really encourage you to publish the guide, I think there is a good demand for it, and it is an invaluable asset to the local climbers.
I am back up on the moors for a few months this summer, if you need any help reviewing, taking photos etc, I'd be happy put some time in.
I was talking to Frank Fitzgerald today, and he said that people had been to Earthworks/Cambo Buttress recently. Now, they certainly won't have got there using the Rockfax guide!
1. Ling Buttress Routes HS & S (Nice)
2. Sphinx Traverse S (Fantastic!)
3. Christopher VS (Good)
4. East Sphinx Direct VS (Hard start)
5. Concave Wall HVS (OK gear, but a tad bold)
6. Various other routes such as 'Slab climb (S)', 'Wall & Ledge (D)' & the bouldering.
7. Summit the Needle, towards sunset?!
(should be reet, for a day?)
I don't know how many you would have to sell for it to be viable but from the few people i've talked to you would have no problems shifting a few hundred at least i'd imagine? (estimation)
> Would it be to an acceptable standard? What do climbers really want out of guidebooks these days?
Why? It's on our list for the summer, don't want a wasted journey!
Even if free mini guides appeared (and Chris nows says they won't), how would the affect of these in terms of lost sales differ from your publishing full details of all the crags on the climbonline site?
You were probably doing hard stuff though, the punter grade routes might be better (though usually aren't)
Toreador: It's worth a look, at least its in a beautiful location just above Thorgill Village, and Rosedale itself is rather stunning.
that's the main reason for wanting to visit to be honest. If the climbing's crap we can just slob around eating sandwiches and admiring the view :)
typical - we're meant to be going to Raven's Scar tomorrow evening!
Take it to email chaps please.
Not a nice way to speak about a nidderdale boulderer!
Don't think they have heard of Messenger!
What's she got to do with it?
I have been called many things but 'hip' is a new one!
> Take it to email chaps please.
I dunno, the content is about climbing in North Yorkshire, Franco's mention of a downpour, has alerted Mr Caldwell to possibly rethinking his plans to go to North Yorkshire's best North facer.
Nice article - Well done guys, you are clearly proud of your local rocks!
(And I didn't even see any Northern vernacular in the text - not even the legendary "iy"!)
Great list Dave, it was a cracking day, got most of them other then the bouldering and sphinx traverse. I've got a nice fat bruise on my leg from falling of concave wall :-)
As for the bouldering, thats just a time passer, if its a bit windy or you've climbed everything you want to climb and are waiting for the sun to set.
Interesting article. You say "Magic in the Air - One of the best climbs in the Moors, if not the country. Although it's graded E6 6b I'm not quite sure how difficult it is, as I couldn't find anyone who had climbed it... "
It is a great route. You know I've done it (with the side runners), you only have to ask!
If anyone fancies a look at Raven's Scar, now would be a good time, it's in excellent condition at the moment.
A couple of our members were at Peak Scar last night, apoparently it was overrun by thousands of people from a different club ;-)
All those folks there and the crag isn't in Northern England - who would have believed it!
That's cos your guide has cherry picked all the most popular crags, which is why we were queueing for routes at Raven's Scar last night.
When I say queueing, I mean we got to choose from almost 100 routes with nobody else there at all, but we all wanted to do the same route so took it in turns :)
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