UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Oh I thought Pat Deavoll (NZ) was -

http://www.bdel.com/scene/athletes/pat_deavoll.php

23rd-24th May Ascent of "Deprivation", North Buttress of Mt Hunter
We left the base of Deprivation at about 2am on the 23rd and simul climbed the first 300 mts of 60deg-ice band and WI 4 ice runnels, with me leading and Marty
carrying the heavier pack. This got us to the base of the first crux. Marty then
lead 3 x 60mt pitches up a very steep chimney of poor ice and unconsolidated
snow, while I seconded with the smaller pack and guided the larger pack as he
hauled. This was hard work, but it put us at the base of the first ice band at about
Page 5
12 am. Four pitches of unpleasant glass like 60-deg ice got us to the top of the
first ice band. Then I lead 5 really good pp up a leaning ramp system of WI 4 plus
and mixed, while poor Marty carried the bigger pack (which by this stage I had
found was too heavy for me to climb with!) One am. saw us at the top of the
second ice band chopping a small ledge that we managed to brew up on and get
a few hours cold and uncomfortable rest. By 7am we were away again, up the
ramp system between the second and third ice band. Much of the climbing was
on bulletproof ice covered in 6 inches of snow, and very tenuous and unpleasant.
By 2pm we had reached the third ice band and were feeling the effects of our
exertions. We stopped and cooked up some soup at the top of the ice band
before abandoning the larger of the packs (Martys pack) and heading off up the
'Bibler Come Again Exit' with Marty in the lead and me carrying the smaller pack.
Several more pitches of hard tenuous mixed climbing, and we reached the end of
the technical difficulties, and our high point at 7pm. We were extremely happy.
After taking some pictures we started to rappel the Moonflower route. The 35
rappels went without a hitch and by 3 am we were back on the glacier and on our
skis back to Kahiltna Basecamp, 53 hours after leaving

In reply to nz Cragrat:

That was a quote from Pat Deavoll, NZAC Bulletin

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Depends how you define an ascent, I guess. There's still 2,000ft to go from the top of the technical difficulties on Deprivation, so I don't reckon that counts, IMO. You are still a long way from 'topping out' on the face.

In reply to gav p:

Bit like Mugs and Paul on the Moonflower?

In reply to gav p:

They climbed the route not the mountain ....

In reply to nz Cragrat:

This has been added by the Editor:
Editor's Note: Kiwi Pat Deavoll made an ascent of Deprivation in 2004 (with Marty Beare) that ended on the top of the north buttress, not the summit of Mt. Hunter. Alpinist considers Zoe Hart's ascent the first integral ascent of the route by a woman.

What is the first integral ascent of the route..?

In reply to nz Cragrat: I'm guessing they mean that the route was only fully repeated with this ascent.I'm not familiar with this route, but does it actually finish on the summit?If not then surely Pat Deavoll's ascent must also be considered as an "integral" ascent, no?

In reply to john howard 1: Twight and Backes went almost to the summit- within a couple of hundred feet on the first ascent- which is a long slog from the top of the buttress.

In reply to john howard 1:

I guess it's like the FA of the Moonflower (or the Shining Face of G4?) Paul Aubrey and Mugs Stump climbed the route to the top of the Buttress. The "complete" or "integral" ascent was later by Todd Bibler and Klewin. Both are included in route details.
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=akhnbut

I guess it is a "modern" approach of doing a route not the Peak...which would of course raise interesting questions in mountaineering over things like Cerro Torre - however I guess when it comes to claiming to have climbed a route for a FFA I think the first female up the route gets a tick ahead of the FFA to do the route and choose to go to the summit.