/ NEWS: Steve McClure Success at Kilnsey Today

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Michael Ryan - on 20 May 2008
A few hours ago today Steve McClure left Kilnsey Crag in North Yorkshire with another fine and hard redpoint to add to his already impressive CV of world class sport climbs.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=05&year=2008#n44374
Martin Rogers - on 20 May 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> A few hours ago today Steve McClure.......


are we trying to beat 8a to the scoop this time Mick? :0)
craig d - on 20 May 2008
Good job Steve, but more importantly what did Rab and Al do?
ste mac - on 21 May 2008
In reply to craig
of course more importantly rab and al were both looking at the peak of fitness. Al is working on becoming a fully fledged 8a climber (3 or more 8a's) and Rab is warming up on Dominatrix
Ian Patterson on 21 May 2008
In reply to ste mac:

Great stuff. How do you keep so motivated putting up yet another Yorkshire testpiece?

We really need to see some young strong lads get on these routes and give Steve some competition.
Franco Cookson OLD - on 21 May 2008
In reply to ste mac: good effort.
JLS on 21 May 2008
In reply to ste mac:

>"Al is working on becoming a fully fledged 8a climber"

There is a nice F8a at Dumby and I'm sure you'd find something to do even if it was only trad.
richard kirby - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Ian Patterson:
> (In reply to ste mac)

>
> We really need to see some young strong lads get on these routes and give Steve some competition.

Which young strong lads? I can't think of UK based climber able enough to repeat Steve's routes, bar McCleod perhaps.

The only chance of these routes getting repeats in the near future are from the likes of Andrada, Marin, Ondra, Sharma, Graham etc - world class ones who are able to roam the climbing world.

I mean how long has Rainshadow been done? A few have tried it/are trying it but no repeat. It's only 9a as well. Cry Freedom still stops the majority.

Good effort Steve.









Ian Patterson on 21 May 2008
In reply to richard kirby:
> (In reply to Ian Patterson)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Which young strong lads? I can't think of UK based climber able enough to repeat Steve's routes, bar McCleod perhaps.
>

You're right I'm sure - I don't know whether the likes of James Pearson could (have the desire to?) convert obvious bouldering / grit route strength to sport climbing fitness to take some of these routes. Steve's list of testpieces on the UKs best sport crags is amazing and imo its really disappointing that no one is trying / repeatintg them (though Malcolm Smith has been on Rainshadow this year, don't know how much progress he's made).
shark - on 21 May 2008
In reply to ste mac:

Commiserations Steve - no big unclimbed lines left for you to get psyched for. Time to move to Spain ?
richard kirby - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to ste mac)
>
> Commiserations Steve - no big unclimbed lines left for you to get psyched for. Time to move to Spain ?


I'd imagine he's saved a few to flash/on sight.
Serpico on 21 May 2008 - 82-70-37-198.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to ste mac)
>
> Commiserations Steve - no big unclimbed lines left for you to get psyched for.

Oh I don't know, if you know where to look...

Ally Smith on 21 May 2008
In reply to Serpico:

Just maybe not Yorkshire?
Serpico on 21 May 2008 - 82-70-37-198.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk
In reply to ally smith:
In Yorkshire.
shark - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Serpico:

The line left of Overshadow has poor rock. What else looks good and hard ?
Serpico on 21 May 2008 - 82-70-37-198.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to Serpico)
>
> What else looks good and hard ?

Can a man not be enigmatic?

shark - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Serpico:

Spill the beans - we don't want to lose our best player to Barcelona
north country boy - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Great Work Steve!
S i'm on & on - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

> What else looks good and hard ?

I am surprised at the length some people go to to stick in a euphemism.
Michael Ryan - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Photos and quotes at http://www.climbmagazine.com/SteveMcClureKilnsey.aspx
Lee Proctor - on 21 May 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to ste mac)
>
> Commiserations Steve - no big unclimbed lines left for you to get psyched for. Time to move to Spain ?

Being a Clwyd local - there is a fully bolted super-project at Dinbren. It's been patiently waiting for nearly 15 years for someone strong enough to have a go!

Ally Smith on 22 May 2008
In reply to Lee Proctor:

Yep that's what i was on about too.
Stood under it on monday night and thought it looked every bit as hard as anything on Kilnsey North Buttress.
shark - on 22 May 2008
In reply to ally smith:

I'll make a point of dragging him there before he vegetates. Whats the history of the project - has anyone put time in on it ?
Ally Smith on 22 May 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

Only recently local myself, so no idea of the history of the line.

Monday was my first time at Dinbren, and tuesday my first time at LPT. So much to do!

I'd be intrigued to find out more - there's several other project lines here abouts too.

I see Steve is down as a guest of honour at the Cheddar Man event. I can think of three hard projects that'll be open that weekend. Two short hard nasties (8b+ or harder) and a longer route (8c odd).
shark - on 22 May 2008
In reply to ally smith:

The UKC logs say that there are 3 adjacent projects all bolted by Dave Johnson whose name rings a bell but I cant quite place.
witnessthis - on 22 May 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
Very strong climber from chester who i believe bolted these lines with Dave Body also talented/strong clmber from chester who bolted various lines in the mid-90s including proj at dib scar.
Tyler - on 22 May 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

Dave Johnson was a training fied who spent some time at Todd Skinners training camp at Hueco. Made repeats of some hard (for the time) problems there. I think he now lives in Lancaster. I also heard that these projects are just blank rooves with no holds and no real prospect of ascents.
Serpico on 22 May 2008 - 78.144.96.41 whois?
In reply to Tyler:
I don't know, I think the Dib Scar thing is a go-er. Probably more Gaskins than McClure though.
dredpath - on 22 May 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

How about the remaining spaces on the Diamond, Little Orme North Wales. 50% of the crag remains and is steeper than Kilnsey NB. Plenty of rock there for you Steve...
broughton power on 22 May 2008 - 10.148.48.6 [inetgw-64-sec.nhs.uk]
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: In reply to Tyler: hi the main line was bolted by dave body who never tried it i think ian fitzpatrick gave it ago muttered something about it being another/several steps up from hubble which he was trying at the time. Paul Higginson also had a swing on it with me before dave body bolted it not many holds!!!! I bolted another line near the roof not as hard by along way never got on it. Dave Body also bolted a smart line in llandulas cave again which again he never tried.Anyway been trainin on me boards in morecambe and hope to get up to dinbren to try some of the easier routes this year see you up there . dave johnson
nic42 - on 03 Jun 2008

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