UKC

ARTICLE/VIDEO: Gravediggers E8, Accidental on-sight attempt

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 Jack Geldard 26 May 2008
A while ago we [UKC staff] asked what kind of articles you would like to see on UKC:

Thread Here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=277892&v=1#x4115754">

I hope we've covered quite a few of them. One of the requests was for me to write about my experiences of on-sight trad climbing. What follows is an account of a recent brush with Gravediggers E8 6c - an accidental on-sight attempt:

"...Caution to the wind and I'm cupping the loosest and best bit of the hold, really leaning on it with all my weight. It's moving a bit too much... F*ck. Will it come off? I don't care any more, anything to relieve the pump.

Looking down at the fall, checking the runner, it looks too far. Will I hit that buttress? Will the wire hold me? God, I should have backed it up. Shit. Why didn't I back it up? Why did I climb this high? Fingers begin to unravel on the flake now..."



Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1021
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Wow, i thought that was a really good article. Cheers
 abarro81 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Like it.. sounds pretty exciting! Looking forward to seeing the full vid..
So what're these soft touches that suit lanky, weak, scared people then? (From a lanky, weak, scared person who like soft touches)
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Cracking bit of inspiring writting Jack, well done. Had my palms sweating just reading it. Shame there isn't some photos of you on the route too.
 john howard 1 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: That's a brilliant article and the video clip at the end really finishes it off well, it's a great insight into the head games of hard trad-I can't wait to see "onsight" now, it looks class!
 Alun 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Well done and well-written. Just the right length too, long enough to maintain the interest, not so long that we get bored.
James Jackson 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Was that article sponsored by Posing Productions then? Actually, I don't care as I think their films are great.
 Ed Booth 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Jack that is f*cking legendary! Top effort going for it. The film is sooo funny. Brilliant! Ed
 Michael Ryan 26 May 2008
In reply to James Jackson:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Was that article sponsored by Posing Productions then?

No.
 TobyA 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Jack - before you try it again, if we all chip in a quid and buy you a nice helmet, will you promise to wear it next time?!

Nice article.
 philipivan 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Great article. Good to hear that people trying to lead E8 are thinking the same sort of things I think about on a VS. It doesn't get any easier and the holds are smaller.

Phil
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Nice one Jack, that's a great article.
 tobyfk 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Very good ... nice movie/ text combination.
 Henry L Buckle 26 May 2008
Absolutley brilliant. His attempts at commentary can't hide the sound of fear in his voice.

And the final "f··king hell, what am I doing on an e8" is pure gold.

Good stuff.

Henry
 Wil Treasure 26 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Nicely written, I think regardless of whether we've attempted an E8 onsight that's probably a situation we can all relate to!

You seem remarkably calm on the video though...
James Jackson 26 May 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Humor sensor not working today Mick?
 Michael Ryan 26 May 2008
In reply to James Jackson:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Humor sensor not working today Mick?

Very much so.

I prefer to take everything at face value though.

rginns 27 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

What a brilliant article, my hands are sweating just reading it!

This is the sort of article that makes UKC great.

Well done Jack
 climbingpixie 27 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Brilliant article, one of the best I've read on here. Looking forward to watching the video when I get home.
 Marc C 27 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Excellent read - you're one brave hombre!

PS I'd always (mistakenly) believed that Whillans was the first to climb Grond. It's mentioned on Joe Brown's site as JB's First Ascent (yet, under the FA details, it says 'also led by Whillans Patey And Smith at the same time').
OP Jack Geldard 27 May 2008
In reply to Marc C:
> (yet, under the FA details, it says 'also led by Whillans Patey And Smith at the same time').

It must have been a squash with four of them on it all at the same time! I wonder if JB set off first or if he did some over taking!? (that was a joke)

Glad people enjoyed the article. I enjoyed writing it.

Jack

rich 27 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: nice

it's funny 'cos it's true :¬)
 mr mills 27 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:great effort jack, i belayed ioan(doyle) on it on the 18th of may ! he took a 20+ ft fall on his o/s go. he then top roped it twice before sending it in style, hope you`ve done it since !
 smallerrich 27 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: That was brilliant. I see what you mean about the finishing hold, it looks so close!!
 JR 28 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

good effort, brings back memories of finding myself in a similar place...
 Moacs 28 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Your profile (which, of course is *bang* up to date) says best onsight E7...so I guess commiserations are in order?



Nice article - thank you.

John
 gobsmacker 28 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Excellent read. I look forward to seeing the movie.

Stevo
 Matt Maynard 29 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: A really cracking article this. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing your fears.
 richard kirby 29 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Great .... very funny article and video - I laughed out loud a few times.
 Danny Mac 30 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Brilliant article Jack, good to see you flying after Madagascar
 peterdevlin 30 May 2008
What an outstanding write-up ... felt I was there

Many thanks
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Now read/watched it - fabulous; very funny.

jcm
In reply to Marc C:

You mean Gray, not Patey. I'm pretty sure DG says in one of his fictional autobiographies that Whillans was first.

jcm
 Marc C 04 Jun 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Thanks for correction/clarification.
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