UKC

Anyone recommend some good multi pitch routes at gogarth.
Starting at HVS to E3.

Planning weekend trip 14th-15th june

Ta.

In reply to Murcantile: You have to do Dream of white horse's. Easy climbing for HVS but felt so commiting abbing in as it was the first sea cliff route I had ever done. Simply class!!!

In reply to Murcantile: Oh just read your profile. Maybe you haven't updated it for a while but you say you climb E2. Think you may change your mind on attempting any E3's when you get to Gogarth. It pretty intimodating. We have bivied near the car park near the light house before and its stunning to watch the sun go down. Have fun.

In reply to Murcantile:

The obvious ones from HVS to E3 are:
-Dream
-Gogarth
-The Strand
-The Moon (possible bird banned??)

An alternative list might read:
-Concrete Chimney
-Anarchist (probably banned so let's say Resolution instead)
-Toiler on the Sea
-Centrefold (Rhoscolyn)

In reply to Murcantile: DOWH is good and can I vote for one of my own, Freebird on Castell Hellen, or N West Passage on the same crag, very easy abseil access and near the car park. Also Gogarth itself, and Pentathol to get used to the Main Cliff, after that the world is your oyster Enjoy!

In reply to Al Evans:

True Moments / Freebird is brilliant and probably worth E2 !

In reply to Murcantile:

To be honest, if you pick a route with stars next to it from any of the popular areas (Wen Zawn, Main Cliff, Castell Helen) you're unlikely to walk away disappointed. For starters though...

Wen Zawn - Dream (HVS), Concrete Chimney (HVS), Quartz Icicle (E2), Britomartis (HVS), Spider Wall (HVS).

Main Cliff - Scavenger Direct (HVS and better than the original), Gogarth (E1), Rat Race (E3). Maybe some of those routes like Emulator and Aardvark.

Yellow Wall - The Moon (E3).

Castell Helen - Blanco (HVS), NW Passage (E1), Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird (E1), Kalahari (E3).

Should be enough to get you started.

In reply to Murcantile:

Ta very much! just going for the weekend so will look to get a couple of good multi pitches in!

Thanks All!

It's only a single pitch, but The Strand is one of best routes I've ever done. Lots of gear, loads of holds, goes on a bit though! Would be good if you fancy another after a route on the main cliff but can't be bothered for another 3h epic. Also see Breaking the barrier on Holyhead mountain. 3* soft E1, but probably not what you drove all the way over to Holyhead for.

Only done Nightride on the main cliff. Short sharp crux and not particularly recommended.

Concrete Chimney is better than DOWH IMO. Tick them both, don't bother with Wen.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Did Resolution Direct yesterday on the main cliff and it was flippin marvellous. That would get my vote over DOWH, the Strand and Gogarth. Have a great trip.

In reply to Murcantile:

any route at gogarth is worth a second visit, if your pushing e3 then give the moon ago, not overly hard but commiting. on the main cliff do gogarth and scavenger, lovely routes and not too hard.

the strand is awesome.

In reply to centurion05:

If you are not pushing E3 then Creeping Lemma up the same piece of rock is great at about E1.

In reply to Al Evans:

Creeping Lemma is E2 in the guide and E3 on the Gogarth Wiki! Failing on anything in that area isn't an appealing thought - see jcm's excellent advice on how to escape from The Moon in this thread...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=136103

If you're going to do The Moon, it's worth knowing that the 'noticeable peg' referred to in the CC guide is not particularly noticeable anymore, if it even exists at all. This can lead to all sorts of route finding fun and if you're really lucky, you'll get to do the second pitch of Me by mistake and get pumped out of your mind whilst battling hideous rope drag (I had to tie one of the ropes off in the end). If you want to avoid this experience, the trick is not to follow the obvious line round the arete from the first ledgey bit and climb up then right instead.

In reply to Murcantile:

Just get stuck in; they're all good!

In reply to Al Evans: the only route i've yet done on yellow wall is the savage and it was a splendiferous way to spend a february afternoon. sunbathing in feb? marvelous!