/ first E climb?

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alistair evans - on 01 Jun 2008
Managed a couple of HVS routes on lead at Burbage, Knights move & Bilberry Cake, both HVS 5a, albeit low in the grade, and cleanly 2nd'd glass slipper (E2) up in the lakes.


Worth attempting an "E" route on lead, or consolidating at the VS & HVS grade?


What is the easiest touch (if that is possible) to bag an "E"?
andrew sandercock - on 01 Jun 2008
In reply to alistair evans:
find something that suits your style, maybe try seconding it then give it a bash on lead if you feel confident?
nastyned - on 01 Jun 2008
In reply to alistair evans: Search this site and you should find plenty of threads like this. You need to decide which way you would like to go though: skimp on the protection but do an easier climb and go for an an E1 5a or find a well protected E1 5b you're more likely to fail on but less likely to be injured on.
riichar on 01 Jun 2008 - user-5440a154.wfd76a.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to alistair evans: Fancy meeting up at Stanage sometime to bag some easy Es-got my eye on a couple of routes there? Im pretty much the same as you, climbed a few HVS routes but am aprtnerless for most of the next few months!
Oh and Ive done 3PS at Froggatt, so maybe I should just wait for that to be upgraded again....
PeakDJ on 01 Jun 2008
In reply to alistair evans:

> Worth attempting an "E" route on lead, or consolidating at the VS & HVS grade?
>
Are you really going to make the decision whether to try Extremes based on the opinions of complete strangers? What do you think? Would you be comfortable doing moves similar to those found on - say an HVS 5b with more spaced gear etc etc. Only you know the answer...

> What is the easiest touch (if that is possible) to bag an "E"?

Is it all about the numbers? If so, happy E-bagging! :)

Why not pick a really hard, but safe line that truly inspires you rather than just some soft touch for the sake of bagging your first Extreme. Just a thought.

sutty on 01 Jun 2008
In reply to alistair evans:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=63

browse these articles from earlier years, found by clicking the year you want.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/older.html?category=&date=2003
Wilbur - on 01 Jun 2008
In reply to alistair evans:

it's probably worth doing some 'proper' HVS' and if you find them alright/start getting used to them you'll find the step to E1 fairly ok i'd imagine..

As an example in Wales if you can do Brant Direct/Wind/Karwendal Wall/Spectre at the Grochan you'll piss up easier E1s like cemetery gates and breaking the barrier
Will_he_fall - on 01 Jun 2008
Forget your first 'e' climb, get on MaDMAn at wimberry ;)
jkarran - on 01 Jun 2008
In reply to alistair evans:

Saying you've done a couple of short HVSs doesn't really tell us anything. Did you find them tricky or did you pi$$ up them no bother? Not having a clue how experienced you are I'd recommend getting some more experience on some HVSs (It's not exactly a chore is it) then pick an E1 that suits your style and is similar to the HVSs you've liked.

That said, if you've been comfortably cruising VS for years you'll walk up a good selection of E1s but then you'd already know that surely?

If you can walk up a steep slope then 3 Pebble Slab or Hotline (Rylstone) are as easy as it gets (and debatably not E1).

jk
alistair evans - on 01 Jun 2008

Thanks for your responses.


will ask again in 6 months, when I have bagged "the sloth".


I think consolidation and more sustained VS and HVS routes are the order of the day, however if an E that seems ok presents itself then who knows...


Thanks again

ali


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ERB - on 01 Jun 2008
In reply to alistair evans: Ive just recomended Capella on Pavey Ark to a mate for his first E1,its well protected and more HVS than E1 he did it in fine style.

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