UKC

Another post based on my fab little 1946 climbing book!

In the footwear section, among the various types of nails available for your boots etc, there is a bit on socks:

"If conditions are unsuitable for rubbers or no rubbers are available a section of a climb which is too difficult for boots may be climbed in socks. These give as good friction on wet rock as kletterschuhe [felt soles and soft leather uppers](until they wear out) and provide a most desirable freedom for the toes."

Anyone here climbed in socks before??
(the bit in [] is mine, quoted from previous section in the book, to explain kletterschuhe, as I can't be the only one who hadn't heard of them before reading this book!)

In reply to Flicka:
This sounds an excellent book that you've found!
I've never climbed in socks, but I do know that the St Kilda islanders climbed the cliffs in socks. (They were after fulmars, and other seabirds, and their eggs).

In reply to Flicka:

climbing in socks (over the boots) is recommended in Scrambles in Snowdonia and Scrambles in the Lake District

In reply to gingerkate:

It's brilliant! Really interesting!

In reply to CJD:

This doesn't say anything about wearing them over other foot wear, also infer not from the freedom of the toes bit! Anyhoo, have you put socks over footwear when doing any of those scrambles?!

In reply to Flicka:

I have to say I haven't but the thought of wet wool on rock makes me feel a bit queasy!

In reply to Flicka:

I've got a couple of climbing manuals from the 1930s and 40s and some of the techniques are ace!

In reply to Flicka:
Be warned, it only really works if you use woollen socks. Some synthetic socks can actually reduce friction.

Climbing in woollen socks really works quite well for slimy ghyll scrambles, though. It was recommended for slimy routes after nailed boots went out of fashion.

In reply to Flicka: I've bouldered in socks, and bare feet on proper rock. It takes a lot of toe strength, and occaisionaly smearing just doesn't work.

In reply to Alex Roddie:

Iiinteresting! (I was getting tempted to climb some easy mod/diff at Stanage or similar in socks, just to see what it's like, but hmmmmm! Would have to choose my socks carefully!!)

In reply to dunnyg:

Hmmmm maybe you should developer a grip master type thing for toes!!

In reply to Flicka: In the lakeland rock TV series, don whillans and CB climbed dovedale in socks over their boots as it was raining

In reply to Flicka: You should try some easy routes barefoot.... see at what point it jsut doesn't work...

In reply to Flicka: I've done it a few times, usually to annoy my bouldering buddies by flashing something they've just failed on in climbing shoes Works surprisingly well on friction slabs - I wonder what make of sock gives the best friction? I'd say my Bridgedales are a good contender to be the 5.10 of the sock world!

In reply to dunnyg:

I bet it would be a good way to learn to be spot on with your footwork!

In reply to Flicka: You can climb suprisingly well in novelty slippers. The main overhang at the Leeds wall has been climbed numerous times in both my Taz slippers and my Hairy-Claws slippers.

In Fact, I can climb just about has hard indoors in my novelty slippers as I can my La Sportiva slippers...

In reply to Flicka:

I used to climb in socks on top of my rock boots, mostly for gullies in the rain. It works well - you should try it

In reply to Flicka:

I've done it a few times, works quite well. We used to call it a socks over boots (Rock boots) day if it was wet in the old days.

In reply to Flicka: In about 1975 I was doing Dovedale Groove in winter, as you pull out of the groove there is a slab, it was completely verglassed, I took my socks off and put them over my boots, stuck like sh*t to a blanket, I would never have got up it without socks. This has ever since led me into the habit of climbing with socks on, I get the p*ss taken out of me by Simon etc, but I know I'm right.

In reply to dave wearing:

The question is, would it work on Pillar if the weather is minging on my birthday meet??

In reply to Flicka:

How about verruca socks? They're rubber?? Not stealth but still rubber

In reply to Flicka:

Dear God woman, you got a death wish??
I would imagine that it doesn't get round greasy handholds. Unless you fancy climbing in gloves AND socks?? Would be very, very funny to watch anyway

Go on, be a traditionalist and give it a go. Remember to wear your tweeds and take a pipe with you

xC

In reply to Flicka:


Definitely. You won't even notice the rain, especially if you put a third one over your head

In reply to Flicka: It would, but its more pleasant if the weather is nice, if you have a 'must do' target, go for it. You need really tight socks.

In reply to Caralynr:

I have a horrible feeling that this may turn into a challenge at some point during the weekend!

God help us all.

Si

In reply to Flicka:
Not done it when climbuing (though I use to carry a pair of old socks on multi pitch 'just in case'!). But occasionally when scram,bling, an unavoidable slippery section can be avoided by taking your boots off. Beinn Fhada (hope that's right - the one near Shiel Bridge) springs to mind, there's a gerasy section on that which I did in socks).

In reply to Flicka: I could have done with a pair of wooly socks for the route I did on Sat!! I imagine a pair of socks made like Dachstein mits would be pretty grippy on the rock. Be a bitty hot and itchy on the feet mind!

In reply to Flicka:
Barefoot climbing is ace, very good for strengthening toes idependantly. With a little work and the right route you can get up a suprisingly hard line. We used to do laps on 8b/8b+ barefoot a couple of years ago and it was only slightly more difficult than in stickies.

In reply to lasonj: ever heard the one about a famous climbers father doing an E2 in boxing gloves and roller skates for a bet?

In reply to Flicka:

I went to survey a new spot (for me) the other day with a mate. I didnt have my boots, so climbed the damp, slimy rock in my socks, worked a treat! Wasnt a hard problem though!

GM

In reply to thomasfoote: Wasn't it Little Chamonix?

In reply to thomasfoote:

I thought that was Little Chamonix - Ray McHaffie. That's only a Vdiff but it's still a remarkable feat! E2? <mind boggles>

In reply to zorro:

you'll be asking to use rubber gloves next instead of chalk!

In reply to Flicka: I climbed Hargreaves' Origional Route in socks, it was pretty wet but friction was good. The socks, alas, are no longer good...

In reply to Flicka:


Another vote for woollen socks over hiking boots for "more grip" on wet rock, usually on scrambles and steep sections of gill/ghyll walks. All in a long distant Straggler past, when Voice of the Beehive and Kirsty MacColl were in the hit parade, pop pickers!

In reply to CJD: i think the i heard an embellished story in that case!