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I'm off to the Llanberis Pass on Saturday and I seem to have done most of the routes in North Wales select so I'm looking for suggestions for good routes which are not well known classics that I could have a go at as I don't have my Llanberis guide with me this week.
In reply to Tyler:
there's a good looking steep finger crack on the Grochan between Wind and Kaisergebirge Wall. Not sure of the name but it's not in nth wales rock but gets E4 in the old llanberis guide.
there's a good looking steep finger crack on the Grochan between Wind and Kaisergebirge Wall. Not sure of the name but it's not in nth wales rock but gets E4 in the old llanberis guide.
Sea Panther on the black rock at the far left hand end of Craig Ddu I thought was a good (soft) E1 and worth the 3min walk in.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65206
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65206
In reply to ste_d:
No the Pump's near Cockblock. When I was very young I dogged my way up the Pump, I should maybe go back but I suspect I'd still be shut down.
No the Pump's near Cockblock. When I was very young I dogged my way up the Pump, I should maybe go back but I suspect I'd still be shut down.
In reply to ste_d:
No, I think that is Quantum Leap at E4, 6b.
Failed on it in 1983. Very thuggish crux.
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> Is that the Pump?
>
> The E4 I mean.
>
> Is that the Pump?
>
> The E4 I mean.
No, I think that is Quantum Leap at E4, 6b.
Failed on it in 1983. Very thuggish crux.
In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:
i'm sure it got E4 6a....and is meant to be soft.....the upper crack looks quite doable....certainly not as tough as stroll on.....just not sure about the lower slab.
i'm sure it got E4 6a....and is meant to be soft.....the upper crack looks quite doable....certainly not as tough as stroll on.....just not sure about the lower slab.
In reply to The Purple Pimpernel: I think it's Mural (E4) - Quantum Jump is E5 6b (I think).
Tyler: Presumably you've done:
E4 Weasels Rip...
E4 Fear of Infection
E4 What a Difference a day Makes
E3 Black Shadow
How about E3 Never a Dull Moment - on a buttress to the right of 'The Thumb'
Jack
Tyler: Presumably you've done:
E4 Weasels Rip...
E4 Fear of Infection
E4 What a Difference a day Makes
E3 Black Shadow
How about E3 Never a Dull Moment - on a buttress to the right of 'The Thumb'
Jack
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Are you referring to Quasar perhaps?
I thought Stroll On was a doddle really; very positive and bomb proof.
> (In reply to The Purple Pimpernel)
>
> i'm sure it got E4 6a....and is meant to be soft.....the upper crack looks quite doable....certainly not as tough as stroll on.....just not sure about the lower slab.
>
> i'm sure it got E4 6a....and is meant to be soft.....the upper crack looks quite doable....certainly not as tough as stroll on.....just not sure about the lower slab.
Are you referring to Quasar perhaps?
I thought Stroll On was a doddle really; very positive and bomb proof.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Not done Fear of Infection but I always thought it was an off-width? Not my thing at all. Black Shadow, is that at one end or other of the Mot? Will it be dry, any good?
These are the things I like about the Pass, the many little buttresses dotted around like Eggmeat. Not heard of this though, is it safe?
Not done Fear of Infection but I always thought it was an off-width? Not my thing at all. Black Shadow, is that at one end or other of the Mot? Will it be dry, any good?
> How about E3 Never a Dull Moment - on a buttress to the right of 'The Thumb'
These are the things I like about the Pass, the many little buttresses dotted around like Eggmeat. Not heard of this though, is it safe?
In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:
def not quasar....i'm talking about the steep crack in between Wind and Kais. Wall....i'll have a look in the llanberis guide.
i though Stroll On was nails! esp since i fell off the crux....couldn't quite get my fingers in the slot as i found the feet very poor (note to self must pull harder).
def not quasar....i'm talking about the steep crack in between Wind and Kais. Wall....i'll have a look in the llanberis guide.
i though Stroll On was nails! esp since i fell off the crux....couldn't quite get my fingers in the slot as i found the feet very poor (note to self must pull harder).
In reply to Morgan Woods and Pimpernel: See my earlier post...
Tyler: Black Shadow - yes, it's on the Mot, I think it will be dry - it dries quite quick and yes it's pretty good based on the fact that you've done all the best routes!
Never a Dull.. - it's not Right Wall, but it provided me with an evenings entertainment. It has a bold finish, but easy by then - it's a standard E3 5c really, quite short (20m?) but great rock up a nice pillar. The rock on those bluffs is perfect - almost like sandstone.
Cheers,
Jack
Tyler: Black Shadow - yes, it's on the Mot, I think it will be dry - it dries quite quick and yes it's pretty good based on the fact that you've done all the best routes!
Never a Dull.. - it's not Right Wall, but it provided me with an evenings entertainment. It has a bold finish, but easy by then - it's a standard E3 5c really, quite short (20m?) but great rock up a nice pillar. The rock on those bluffs is perfect - almost like sandstone.
Cheers,
Jack
In reply to Tyler:
In reply to Tyler: Have you done
The Grooves- cryn las- E1
Anything on Plexus Buttress
along with The Mole, MPP, The Moelhill, Beorn, Gollum and Gandalf
Black Shadow, Black Spring etc
Let us know what you have done of those and I'll suggesgt some more.
In reply to Tyler: Have you done
The Grooves- cryn las- E1
Anything on Plexus Buttress
along with The Mole, MPP, The Moelhill, Beorn, Gollum and Gandalf
Black Shadow, Black Spring etc
Let us know what you have done of those and I'll suggesgt some more.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: BlacK Shadow is good, you get to climb through geological time as you go from one rock band to the next. Awesome!
Also i'd recommend Ten Degrees Norht on the Plexus Buttress, a fine E2, one of the most under-rated climbs in north wales. Should get three stars for climbing, rock quality and position!
Also i'd recommend Ten Degrees Norht on the Plexus Buttress, a fine E2, one of the most under-rated climbs in north wales. Should get three stars for climbing, rock quality and position!
In reply to mark reeves and Al Evans:
I've done the usual classics on the Mot but nothing at the lefthand side whihc reminds me A New Austerlitz is meant to be good and I've always fancied Victor Mature 'cos my uncle did the FA!
I've done the usual classics on the Mot but nothing at the lefthand side whihc reminds me A New Austerlitz is meant to be good and I've always fancied Victor Mature 'cos my uncle did the FA!
In reply to Tyler: Have you done Zeta? Forgot about that one, its probably even better than the Superdirect!
In reply to Tyler:
Perhaps not that obscure but Roc -Nest Monster on Scimitar Ridge is pretty good and no pushover either. IMHO
Perhaps not that obscure but Roc -Nest Monster on Scimitar Ridge is pretty good and no pushover either. IMHO
In reply to Mark Glaister:
I did that and thought it was a brilliant route, I've asked about Mutiny on the Mouse Organ though, do you know anything about that?
I did that and thought it was a brilliant route, I've asked about Mutiny on the Mouse Organ though, do you know anything about that?
In reply to Enty:
The day I went to do the Skull was one of the most dpressing in my climbing life! I'd put it off for years as it was one route I really wanted to flash and was afraid to get on it. That said I had tried it once but was thwarted by the only days rain in the middle of a drought. Eventually I went for it. Rested on the first pitch on lead, rested seconding the second pitch to get some gear out and dogged the last pitch seconding, a pitiful display and on one of the top 5 routes in Wales as well.
The day I went to do the Skull was one of the most dpressing in my climbing life! I'd put it off for years as it was one route I really wanted to flash and was afraid to get on it. That said I had tried it once but was thwarted by the only days rain in the middle of a drought. Eventually I went for it. Rested on the first pitch on lead, rested seconding the second pitch to get some gear out and dogged the last pitch seconding, a pitiful display and on one of the top 5 routes in Wales as well.
In reply to Tyler:
No have not done that one (MOTMO) but across the valley Sacred Idol and Pulsar were also good. I think Sacred idol might be E4 now?
Cheers
Mark
No have not done that one (MOTMO) but across the valley Sacred Idol and Pulsar were also good. I think Sacred idol might be E4 now?
Cheers
Mark
In reply to Tyler:
I certainly agree with the top 5 accolade. I've never understood that it only gets 2 stars. Far superior to Lubyanka IMHO. Mr. Kirby described the events to me. Hope this trip goes better.
I certainly agree with the top 5 accolade. I've never understood that it only gets 2 stars. Far superior to Lubyanka IMHO. Mr. Kirby described the events to me. Hope this trip goes better.
In reply to Tyler: A few I've spotted in the past as being worth consideration in the future (but haven't climbed!) are
Cyrn Las - The Edge of Time E4
Dinas Mot - Stairway to Heaven E3, Black Shadow E3, The Smodge E4
Carreg Wasted - Twisted Sister E3
Have fun
Cyrn Las - The Edge of Time E4
Dinas Mot - Stairway to Heaven E3, Black Shadow E3, The Smodge E4
Carreg Wasted - Twisted Sister E3
Have fun
In reply to Hugh Cottam:
This trip doesn't matter, I've now tried or faild on the important ones around here hence this post. You must have some knowledge of decent esoteria in the region?
Congratualtions by the way, next time you're in the Hilary give me a shout and I'll stand you half a larger in celebration!
This trip doesn't matter, I've now tried or faild on the important ones around here hence this post. You must have some knowledge of decent esoteria in the region?
Congratualtions by the way, next time you're in the Hilary give me a shout and I'll stand you half a larger in celebration!
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
Black Shadow seems to be getting a lot of recommendations, I'll suggest it to my oppo.
Black Shadow seems to be getting a lot of recommendations, I'll suggest it to my oppo.
In reply to Tyler:
I can't think of anything great that hasn't been mentioned. I'm afraid I'm probably like you. I did the classics and then fell in love with Gogarth.
I can't think of anything great that hasn't been mentioned. I'm afraid I'm probably like you. I did the classics and then fell in love with Gogarth.
In reply to SuperTed:
Interesting to hear about the Smodge as I've never heard of it. It gets no stars in the Logbooks on here, can you tell em a bit more about it, how hard, gear, pitches etc? Thanks
Interesting to hear about the Smodge as I've never heard of it. It gets no stars in the Logbooks on here, can you tell em a bit more about it, how hard, gear, pitches etc? Thanks
In reply to Tyler:
Can't remember that much about except that it was awesome. It's on the right hand side of Plexus Buttress, it got 2 stars in the old Llanberis guide. I just remember great rock and tenuous friction-y climbing. Sorry, not much help with details! You could do Victor Mature at the same time (think that's over there too - I seem to be developing early onset demetia).
Can't remember that much about except that it was awesome. It's on the right hand side of Plexus Buttress, it got 2 stars in the old Llanberis guide. I just remember great rock and tenuous friction-y climbing. Sorry, not much help with details! You could do Victor Mature at the same time (think that's over there too - I seem to be developing early onset demetia).
In reply to Tyler: If you want me to email you route descriptions, let me know which ones as I've the latest Llanberis guide sitting here.
In reply to Morgan Woods: I think that it`s `Mural E46a`. Have you done `zangorilla E46a` ?
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
Thanks very much Mark, that's very decent however I will have the guide for the weekend just not with me this week (I'm working away).
Thanks very much Mark, that's very decent however I will have the guide for the weekend just not with me this week (I'm working away).
In reply to Neil Foster:
I haven't done Zangorilla mainly because of the exciting moments. I notice its at the top of the graded list in North Wales Rock so I doubt I'll ever do it.
I haven't done Zangorilla mainly because of the exciting moments. I notice its at the top of the graded list in North Wales Rock so I doubt I'll ever do it.
In reply to Tyler:
Have you done the Tryptych on Llogwyn Llo? A good E1 and there's a good E2 there as well that I can't remember the name of. The crag is opposite the Grochan, you walk up from the bridge by the old car park field and it's on your left. You could probably do with a better description than that if you don't have a guide though, the Tryptych is a fairly obvious crack on the second pitch as I remember it. There's also Satsuma Special (E3) which is a bit obscure on Clogwyn Gafr which I've backed off twice but apparently it's all there....
Have you done the Tryptych on Llogwyn Llo? A good E1 and there's a good E2 there as well that I can't remember the name of. The crag is opposite the Grochan, you walk up from the bridge by the old car park field and it's on your left. You could probably do with a better description than that if you don't have a guide though, the Tryptych is a fairly obvious crack on the second pitch as I remember it. There's also Satsuma Special (E3) which is a bit obscure on Clogwyn Gafr which I've backed off twice but apparently it's all there....
In reply to Tyler:
Mutiny on the Mouse Organ - can't believe someone's asked about one of my routes! of course, I'd say it was good but I think its' probably E4/5 and I would imagine is dirty nowadays. Killerkranky is a give away at E5; and well protected.
Mutiny on the Mouse Organ - can't believe someone's asked about one of my routes! of course, I'd say it was good but I think its' probably E4/5 and I would imagine is dirty nowadays. Killerkranky is a give away at E5; and well protected.
In reply to Andy Popp:
Can't believe I didn't realise MOTMO was your route, I was sat next to you at the party on Sat at one point.
Can't believe I didn't realise MOTMO was your route, I was sat next to you at the party on Sat at one point.
In reply to Tyler: this is a bit after the event but i did Blackhead E3 on Craig Ddu at the weekend. one star only but i thought it was superb; it looked like i may have been the first person on it this year (no chalk, cobwebs all over the place and 2 important placements needed plants removing). very worthwile.
also, i did Yellow Wall E2 in 1 pitch which makes for a good outing. you get a bit of drag on the traverse but nothing major; just make sure you extend runners at the top of your right hand rope.
also, i did Yellow Wall E2 in 1 pitch which makes for a good outing. you get a bit of drag on the traverse but nothing major; just make sure you extend runners at the top of your right hand rope.
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