UKC

What routes are there for unheathly people who climb up to VS

In reply to stephen Rowley: I'm saying this with limited knowledge of Gogarth but very little at VS I believe; they're not generally very good and tend to be in quite "hard" situations, that most people climbing VS will have little experience of. Better to get more healthy and on HVS before going there.

Having said all that, Lighthouse Arete might be ok at Castell Helen.

One other tip, go on a nice calm day and Gogarth feel alright. Go on a grey overcast day and it feels much more serious and menacing.

In reply to Michael Hood:

Like Stanage Popular End does on a bank holiday weekend!!

In reply to stephen Rowley:

I found that lots of the stuff there was a grade harder than it actually was, probably due to the situation.

So, taking this into account if you're VS climber, you could probably tackle a HVS on Gogarth. It does help to have some one who has been before though, the approach to most climbs can seem daunting, or in the case of castell helen almost wrong...

follow the guide and a previous visitor and you can't go too far wrong

enjoy

In reply to LittleJoe:


Umm. Whilst it's true that there are a lot of soft touches at Gogarth, there are also a lot of routes that are definitely not, especially when the situations and commitment are taken into account. That sort of advice could land someone like the OP in quite a lot of trouble if they're operating at their limit on a crag like this. The Castell Helen ab is also one of the friendliest in the area - try either of the Red Wall approaches if you want to scare yourself a bit!

To the OP: Unless you've got someone who's prepared to drag you up a few routes (which would sort of destroy the experience) I'd give it a miss for now. Some of the routes on Castell Helen would be ok (Rap, Pel, Lighthouse Arete etc) but that's about it. The other classic VS outings like Green Slab are bird banned at the moment and tbh, I'd want a grade or two in hand before I set off up something like that.

In reply to stephen Rowley:
Rap at Castel Helen seemed pretty fair for VS. It was my first route on a proper abb in sea cliff, and was a pretty cool experience (waves breaking over our heads + howling wind- that sort of thing). Its also close to the line of the abseil so if you leave your ab rope in place + tie it onto your second you should be able to get back out if all else fails. There are some easier climbs and more VSs on holyhead mountain which is reasonably nearby if you decide better of it when u get there.

In reply to stephen Rowley:

Don't listen to these people, there is plenty to do at VS, just study the guide, but be aware that Gogarth is a major sea cliff with complicated and often dangerous approach slopes where experience counts for a lot. How do you get the experience?

well if you're anything like I was the first few times at Gogarth you start abbing in the wrong place, you end up being cut off by the tide, you get be-nighted and climb out by the light of the south stack lighthouse, basically a Gogarth apprenticeship that all devotees end up going through.

Anyway back to your question: recommended VS's
Big Gut and the hustler - easter island
Dde - wen slab (climb it from the notch first)
Ipso Facto and routes to its right (looking out)- wen zawn
Bloody Chimney, Imitator and bezel - upper tier
A Groove - tsunami zawn
end game - north stack wall
+ the usual castell helen suspects

Dave Ferguson

In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Agreed, Puffin and Pantin are ok as well, if I remember corructly there are a couple more around Imitator as well.

In reply to stephen Rowley: Bezel on the Upper Tier was pleasant at the grade. The scary bit was the approach path after the Main Cliff path had dropped down!

Rhoscolin (can't spell it) about 5 miles down the coast is a watered down version of Gogarth if you fancy working your way up. However, Castell Helen on a nice day is a delight. Poseidon and Pel there haven't been mentioned but are also delightful, particularly Poseidon.

Ben