UKC

I am after a decent approach/scambling shoe for a space saving adventure in the Dolomites. A bit of bouldering/via ferrata. I have looked at the 5.10 range...camp 4 or guide tennie? Will need to be tough enough for a run/climb on that sharp dolomiti rock? Yes I want it all!

In reply to topper:

I've got the camp 4 and I find them superb for climbing in, although I admit I've not climbed anything harder than a vdiff whilst wearing them. Very sticky. Not tried the tennie so couldn't say what they're like.

In reply to jonnie: Cheers Jonnie,what type of rock was the v-diff. I am tending towards the camp 4 seems like a better approach. Might kill the tennie to quick.

In reply to topper: This is what you need.


http://www.climbers-shop.com/detail.aspx?id=4347&utm_source=Froogle&...

I have used these shoes for via ferratas

In reply to topper:

I've used the camp 4 on climbs and scrambles on rhyolite in Wales, Swanage limestone, Dartmoor granite and on the fierce gabbro of the Cuillin. It's performed well on all of them. It has served well as an approach shoe as well. It is comfortable and solid and the lacing can be tightened around the toe when you get on a climb.

In reply to icnoble: These do look good. Did you use these solely or as a supplement shoe for the actual climb?

In reply to icnoble: Thanks for the advice but they tend to look like mainly a rock shoe. I think I am after a more versatile approach shoe. How ever I might bear them in mind to replace my current shoes that have made my toenails go almost black I could do with treating my feet a little better.

In reply to topper: Let us know what you decide... I can't bring myself to take a pair of boots for 5 days of Ferrata in July and looking for a cooler lighter alternative. Tempted by 5.10 camp 4 also...

In reply to topper:

I saw the Patagonia 'Thatcher' shoe the other day in an advert, it seems to have a dual (multi!) purpose. Have a look on the interweb for a picture and description.

In reply to topper:

Take a look at the Scarpa Quest. I've been using Camp4's for a year or so now and replaced them with these because they've a lower toe volume. The friction seems better, too, since you can get a closer foot placement.

In reply to topper:

Had a few pairs of guide tennies now and led up to Severe in them. The pro's are that they are a really comfortable and sticky shoe, the con's that the build quality is *very* variable and the soles do wear pretty quickly (though they do seem to be making them a bit thicker now.) A possible alternative could be the Scarpa Quest, which always look somewhat better put together...

In reply to topper:
I've got a pair of the Tennies as I wanted something a bit more light weight and loads of people seem to rave about them. I really don't rate them as approach shoes. Although they are sticky, light and fairly technical after only a couple of months the sole has started to come away from the body of the shoe at the heal - build quality isn't there IMO. Also they are so light there is literally nothing to them - walking to the crag through a short streach of damp (dew) grass results in damp feet which bugs me. When these ones die (v.soon I recon) i'll be going for something a little heavier and that can handle more than a totally dry walkin along good tracks!

Previously I had the predecesor to the Camp 4, however and they were awsome - a fair bit heavier but pretty much waterproof and near indestructable managing a lot of mountain crag walkins, general wear, mountain biking and even a festival weekend.

Hopefully useful!!
Stuart

In reply to StuDoig:

I love my tennies, but I agree they aren't durable enough. I also get the feeling that they weren't made with the UK climate in mind. They were great when in spain and on the puig campana, my rock shoes would have been to tight to for the whole climb, ended up doing it all in them. At the moment I ration my useage of them as know they won't last so like you might look for something more durable next time. How do the Camp 4s compare for climbing in?

In reply to speekingleesh: Have a look at Montrail D7's,they are great!Mine have lasted over a year of pretty heavy use in the mountains.I can climb upto vs them,the rubber seems to be a great compromise between climbing tackiness and longevity,great for edgeing,really comfy and good laces that go right to your toes...in fact i'm going to go and buy another pair!

In reply to topper: anyone know if there is a replacement for the Mescalito, that replaced the El Cap?

In reply to mikekeswick:

Unfortunately I believe they're discontinued and now pretty scarce. Let me know if you find somewhere with them in a 10.

In reply to topper:

Climber did a review of approach shoes last month I think. The Evolv stryker came out really well so I bought a pair & damn good they seem to be too. Climbing rubber on the sole but reasonable support etc. Definitely worth a look... Much more durable than the tennie as well (allegedly !!)

In reply to topper:
Sportiva Cirque Pro might be worth a look.
http://cragx.com/shop/cirque-pro-p-1083.html

I had a couple of pairs of Guide Tennies before these, and the Sportivas seem much nicer to me. More supportive and harder wearing (as far as I can tell - I've only had them a couple of months).

In reply to mjt:

Not going until August 10 days. Maybe you could let me know!Really going to thrash the routes this year. Have previously worn: Boots (too hot) salomons (good but not enough edge grip and not stiff enough). Trail running shoes (Cool light but no grip and too flexible on the 5c's. The dolomite rock really hammers shoes without protection. The Evolv stryker looks good. However might opt for the camp 4's.Thanks for the replies.

In reply to deepsoup: comparison review of the Cirque Pro and Styker here - they both fell to bits, but then these guys are giving them a decent workout!

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Evolv_Stryker_Editori...