/ NEWS: Ray's Roof - Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker

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Ray's Roof (E7 6c) is a classic gritstone horror, short and unbelievably savage. The horizontal off-width fissure was first climbed in 1977 by visiting American Ray Jardine and has seen only a few repeats since then. It is one of the hardest off-widths in the country.

Tom Randall reports:

"We'd both been out a couple of times recently and were really psyched for some burly roof action, so it was perfect that we both got ascents one after the other. Pete managed to look pretty sketchy on the bottom section, but really got stuck in past the lip, with some of the most inspiring climbing I've seen in quite some time. I think his words were "let me rest here a bit, I think I'm going to throw up!"

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44807
Dave C on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
"let me rest here a bit, I think I'm going to throw up!"

I only have to look at an off-width to feel like that!
martin heywood - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Nicely done boys, I think there is quite a list of superheroes spat off this monstrosity.
johncoxmysteriously - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Now officially Britain's first E7, then, is it?!

Do I gather our heroes managed this onsight? Is that the first such feat?

Others have done it beside those you mention, I think, but perhaps you didn't mean to suggest you were listing all the known ascents.

jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I don't have a comprehensive list of ascentionists, but thought it was worth putting in the 'Best Forgotten..' list - as it shows how hard this crack is. Also it would have been unfair to then not mention that Chris P actually did succeed on his next go.

E7? - Who am I to argue?! http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=9278

I believe they did it ground-up with falls, but I could be wrong (usually am). I'll check and clarify in the report.

Jack
Col Allott - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Impressive. That route hurts your hands just looking at it.
Chris F - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Col Allott: Hurts more than just hands. Looking at it hurts my entire body.
Jonas Wiklund - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Fantastic pictures at climbers.net!
Michael Ryan - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Chris Plant, another Ray's Roof victim.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=68403
johncoxmysteriously - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

He says 5th and 6th ascents.

Hmm - Jardine, Steve Lewis, Plant, who was the other one they had in mind I wonder?

jcm
James Jackson on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

That is just grim isn't it? Nicely done all!
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Ben Bransby I think?
S11 - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Steve Allen (from Leicester) did the second ascent (I think)
Neil Foster - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:

Brilliant Ray's Roof gallery, Nick. Congratualtions.

Neil
johncoxmysteriously - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to S11:

Allen, sorry. I had half a feeling I was typing the wrong name too.

Ben B, yes I think that's right. Thanks.

jcm
Fidget - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Brilliant! I love that bit in Best Forgotten Art, and Dawes' hands off leg jam body swivel. So close... then he fails too ;)
Chris the Tall - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Neil Foster:
> (In reply to Nick Smith - UKC)
>
> Brilliant Ray's Roof gallery, Nick. Congratualtions.
>
I always think a great climbing photo is one that really inspires you to go out and try the route. These are the exceptions !

shark - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Paul Mitchell used to have it down as one of his favourite climbs on his UKCprofile though I see now that he has taken that off.
sutty on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Chris the Tall:

I always think a great climbing photo is one that really inspires you to go out and try the route. These are the exceptions !

LOL, you are just getting old and sensible.

It is a fine achievement, hope someone has mailed Ray to tell him it is now a voie normale for young bloods.
In reply to Neil Foster:
> Brilliant Ray's Roof gallery, Nick. Congratualtions.

Many thanks. It was a great evening (even with the rain). Having seen the route up close now, I'm certainly inspired to get on it "one day" !
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlist.html?id=369

no crimping required :)
Al Evans on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Fantastic, tried it about a dozen times over a dozen years, with great crack climbers like Cambell,Regan, Proctor and Fawcett, there is no doubt however that the breakthrough came with a brilliant crack climber that also invented 'friends'.
johncoxmysteriously - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Al Evans:

Is that right? I didn't realise it was a long-standing problem. How were you protecting it in those days? Just all standing round underneath pretending to spot each other?

jcm
Al Evans on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Of course, amongst the Peak afficianodos it was the last great problem (apart from The Groove of course).
TomPR - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Yeah, we didn't do nany of that top-roping nonsense!! ;) It's be a totally nightmare to top-rope anyway as the rope would always be in the way.

Was a great route and probably one of those that you look back at in fond memories when the wounds have healed... It's been top of my list for while and as a crack climber I'm dead chuffed to have done it. Respect to the man Jardine.

Tom
BrianT - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: So that's where 'best Forgotten Art' comes from! Jude has a 'Best Forgotten Art' teeshirt, featuring stickmen drawings, that Johnny (Dawes) gave her years ago. Never realised it related to this.
david Pike - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: is there any video footage? would be amazing to see how on earth they managed it.
kipster on 19 Jun 2008 - 212.148.161.3 [inetgw-64-sec.nhs.uk]
In reply to TomPR:

I seem to remember he gave it a grade of 5.11 something at the time so it sounds like he didn't even think it was that hard. (or perhaps he was just taking the piss)
Anonymous on 19 Jun 2008 - Penelope.ukdc.aig.com
In reply to kipster:
> (In reply to TomPR)
>
> I seem to remember he gave it a grade of 5.11 something at the time so it sounds like he didn't even think it was that hard. (or perhaps he was just taking the piss)

"Definitive 5.11" IIRC

Does anyone know what Jardine's up to nowadays? Truly a man ahead of his time.

Phil K
Michael Ryan - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Anonymous:

A big mover and shaker, and pioneer of make your own gear and light is right movements.

http://www.rayjardine.com/
johncoxmysteriously - on 19 Jun 2008
In reply to Anonymous:

Thought it was '5.11.c'.

But maybe that's where all those 'Definitive 5-this and 5-that' problems on Burbage came from?

jcm
S11 - on 20 Jun 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Ray's Roof was graded 5.11c by Jardine in the 1981 guide but given how long it took him and how many different hand taping configurations he got through, there was a bit of doubt at the time about the grade. When I went there with Johnny Woodward (see http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=81823) we took two Americans with us, one was the late Alex Lowe who wasn't interested in trying it and Kjell Swedin, who was at the time an offwidth crack specialist. Kjell really struggled on it and didn't get as high as Johnny and reckoned that the grade was way out as Kjell had climbed some hard 5.12s in the US and thought Ray's Roof to be harder that other routes he'd been on.
interested1 on 20 Jun 2008 - 194.75.129.200 whois?
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously) Fantastic, tried it about a dozen times over a dozen years, with great crack climbers like Cambell,Regan, Proctor and Fawcett, there is no doubt however that the breakthrough came with a brilliant crack climber that also invented 'friends'.

Go on Al, tell us more. How did they do? WHo got highest? Etc etc?
stonechat on 20 Jun 2008 - 88-104-246-190.dynamic.dsl.as9105.com
In reply to S11: from supertopo:
5.11+, max. Looks dead easy to me. Invert off a left cup and right fist, one sit up and done.
Everyone knows those limey wankers are shite on the wide. Check out "Britain's Finest" in "Blood Sweat and Bagels". They get shut down by a simple 5.11 wide crack. Embarrassing really. But I guess when every route in your rain swept isle is about 11' tall, you don't get much endurance.


;)
martin heywood - on 20 Jun 2008
In reply to stonechat:
> (In reply to S11) from supertopo:
> 5.11+, max. Looks dead easy to me. Invert off a left cup and right fist, one sit up and done.
> Everyone knows those limey wankers are shite on the wide. Check out "Britain's Finest" in "Blood Sweat and Bagels". They get shut down by a simple 5.11 wide crack. Embarrassing really. But I guess when every route in your rain swept isle is about 11' tall, you don't get much endurance.
> Well,sounds like a fair comment to me,I suppose we can give him the onsight without the formality of climbing it.

johncoxmysteriously - on 20 Jun 2008
In reply to stonechat:

Fantastic! Not that he's wrong, mind.

jcm
johncoxmysteriously - on 20 Jun 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

At least, presumably he's wrong about RR, since on a line through Jonny W one can assume it's harder than Trench Warfare, which is, what, 5.13a, is it?

jcm
Michael Ryan - on 21 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

This ones a cracker too; from Supertopo.

Author:
klk

Trad climber
From: cali
Those of you with wide crack machines could easily recreate the experience of flying to the Peak and doing this climb. A few easy steps.

1. Go to the dump, salvage dozens of old cheese grators, remove the sides with those nasty pock-mark sized teeth, and fix them to the inside of your wooden crack.

2. Set up a sprinkler system overhead, regulated by a randomized timer, that will alternately dump and lightly drizzle chilled water over the entire area. (For a better reality effect, toss in a fan.)

3. Find some expat Brits and have them stand around the bottom of the thing, glaring at you, smoking cigarettes, telling you how much Americans suck, how nails the Peak is, and blaming you for the President you didn't vote for.

4. Retrieve some of last week's oil from the dumpster behind Church's fried chicken; some of last year's potatoes; and a castoff jar of mayonnaise from one of the trash cans in Camp 4. Make some freedom fries, stuff them in white bread with mayonnaise, and charge each other 15 bucks apiece for the butty sandwiches you can eat for your summit victory dinner.

5. Dial up your French jokes and party like its 1999.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=617642&tn=0&mr=0
bluebrad on 21 Jun 2008
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
> (In reply to Neil Foster)
> [...]
>
> Many thanks. It was a great evening (even with the rain). Having seen the route up close now, I'm certainly inspired to get on it "one day" !


Just be warned here and now that I am comprehensively refusing to second you on such an off-width horror show.

Bloody fine effort by both the boys though and some great shots too Nick.

bluebrad
andi turner - on 23 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Brilliant stuff. Totally psyched for the guys, such a fantastic route.
Jon Read - on 23 Jun 2008
In reply to andi turner:
Has it yet to receive a 'local' ascent?

Good stuff, chaps. Nice, no-fuss ascent.
Just wish Nick had captured what to do after turning the lip!
In reply to Jon Read:
> Just wish Nick had captured what to do after turning the lip!

I think I might have to charge extra for the 'missing' secret beta photos ;P

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