/ NEWS: Ray's Roof - Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
Tom Randall reports:
"We'd both been out a couple of times recently and were really psyched for some burly roof action, so it was perfect that we both got ascents one after the other. Pete managed to look pretty sketchy on the bottom section, but really got stuck in past the lip, with some of the most inspiring climbing I've seen in quite some time. I think his words were "let me rest here a bit, I think I'm going to throw up!"
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44807
"let me rest here a bit, I think I'm going to throw up!"
I only have to look at an off-width to feel like that!
Nicely done boys, I think there is quite a list of superheroes spat off this monstrosity.
Now officially Britain's first E7, then, is it?!
Do I gather our heroes managed this onsight? Is that the first such feat?
Others have done it beside those you mention, I think, but perhaps you didn't mean to suggest you were listing all the known ascents.
E7? - Who am I to argue?! http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=9278
I believe they did it ground-up with falls, but I could be wrong (usually am). I'll check and clarify in the report.
Impressive. That route hurts your hands just looking at it.
Chris Plant, another Ray's Roof victim.
He says 5th and 6th ascents.
Hmm - Jardine, Steve Lewis, Plant, who was the other one they had in mind I wonder?
That is just grim isn't it? Nicely done all!
Brilliant Ray's Roof gallery, Nick. Congratualtions.
Allen, sorry. I had half a feeling I was typing the wrong name too.
Ben B, yes I think that's right. Thanks.
Brilliant! I love that bit in Best Forgotten Art, and Dawes' hands off leg jam body swivel. So close... then he fails too ;)
> Brilliant Ray's Roof gallery, Nick. Congratualtions.
Paul Mitchell used to have it down as one of his favourite climbs on his UKCprofile though I see now that he has taken that off.
I always think a great climbing photo is one that really inspires you to go out and try the route. These are the exceptions !
LOL, you are just getting old and sensible.
It is a fine achievement, hope someone has mailed Ray to tell him it is now a voie normale for young bloods.
Many thanks. It was a great evening (even with the rain). Having seen the route up close now, I'm certainly inspired to get on it "one day" !
no crimping required :)
Is that right? I didn't realise it was a long-standing problem. How were you protecting it in those days? Just all standing round underneath pretending to spot each other?
Yeah, we didn't do nany of that top-roping nonsense!! ;) It's be a totally nightmare to top-rope anyway as the rope would always be in the way.
Was a great route and probably one of those that you look back at in fond memories when the wounds have healed... It's been top of my list for while and as a crack climber I'm dead chuffed to have done it. Respect to the man Jardine.
I seem to remember he gave it a grade of 5.11 something at the time so it sounds like he didn't even think it was that hard. (or perhaps he was just taking the piss)
> I seem to remember he gave it a grade of 5.11 something at the time so it sounds like he didn't even think it was that hard. (or perhaps he was just taking the piss)
"Definitive 5.11" IIRC
Does anyone know what Jardine's up to nowadays? Truly a man ahead of his time.
Thought it was '5.11.c'.
But maybe that's where all those 'Definitive 5-this and 5-that' problems on Burbage came from?
Go on Al, tell us more. How did they do? WHo got highest? Etc etc?
5.11+, max. Looks dead easy to me. Invert off a left cup and right fist, one sit up and done.
Everyone knows those limey wankers are shite on the wide. Check out "Britain's Finest" in "Blood Sweat and Bagels". They get shut down by a simple 5.11 wide crack. Embarrassing really. But I guess when every route in your rain swept isle is about 11' tall, you don't get much endurance.
> 5.11+, max. Looks dead easy to me. Invert off a left cup and right fist, one sit up and done.
> Everyone knows those limey wankers are shite on the wide. Check out "Britain's Finest" in "Blood Sweat and Bagels". They get shut down by a simple 5.11 wide crack. Embarrassing really. But I guess when every route in your rain swept isle is about 11' tall, you don't get much endurance.
> Well,sounds like a fair comment to me,I suppose we can give him the onsight without the formality of climbing it.
Fantastic! Not that he's wrong, mind.
At least, presumably he's wrong about RR, since on a line through Jonny W one can assume it's harder than Trench Warfare, which is, what, 5.13a, is it?
This ones a cracker too; from Supertopo.
Those of you with wide crack machines could easily recreate the experience of flying to the Peak and doing this climb. A few easy steps.
1. Go to the dump, salvage dozens of old cheese grators, remove the sides with those nasty pock-mark sized teeth, and fix them to the inside of your wooden crack.
2. Set up a sprinkler system overhead, regulated by a randomized timer, that will alternately dump and lightly drizzle chilled water over the entire area. (For a better reality effect, toss in a fan.)
3. Find some expat Brits and have them stand around the bottom of the thing, glaring at you, smoking cigarettes, telling you how much Americans suck, how nails the Peak is, and blaming you for the President you didn't vote for.
4. Retrieve some of last week's oil from the dumpster behind Church's fried chicken; some of last year's potatoes; and a castoff jar of mayonnaise from one of the trash cans in Camp 4. Make some freedom fries, stuff them in white bread with mayonnaise, and charge each other 15 bucks apiece for the butty sandwiches you can eat for your summit victory dinner.
5. Dial up your French jokes and party like its 1999.
> Many thanks. It was a great evening (even with the rain). Having seen the route up close now, I'm certainly inspired to get on it "one day" !
Just be warned here and now that I am comprehensively refusing to second you on such an off-width horror show.
Bloody fine effort by both the boys though and some great shots too Nick.
Brilliant stuff. Totally psyched for the guys, such a fantastic route.
Has it yet to receive a 'local' ascent?
Good stuff, chaps. Nice, no-fuss ascent.
Just wish Nick had captured what to do after turning the lip!
I think I might have to charge extra for the 'missing' secret beta photos ;P
Elsewhere on the site
This week's Friday Night Video is an interview with Mina-Leslie Wujastyk filmed by Nick Brown. On 14th October 2014, Mina... Read more
Hold on there. This is not your everyday, average hooded down jacket. Insulated with PrimaLoft® GOLD 750, a... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre are showing Brit Rock on Thursday the 27th of November at 7pm. Homegrown adventure comes... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more