UKC

Hi,

My partner and myself are off to Kalymnos for the first time, and I'm wondering what length rope we need. We'll probably be climbing low grade stuff, up to f6b, maybe f6c. Is 70m essential? Or would a 60m one do? We've currently got a 50, which from what I can see from Rockfax, will be pretty inadequate. I like Mammut ropes, can anyone recommend a specific model?

Also, how many quickdraws are needed? I can lay my hands on about 16, is this enough?

Thanks all,


Jeff.

In reply to jeffsheard: 60m is fine. It only becomes a problem if you want to climb something like Trella. If you look in the guidebook, it will tell you if you need a longer rope.

For most routes, 15 QDs are enough, again the guidebook will tell you if you need more.

In reply to lynda:

Great, thanks Lynda. I haven't got the guidebook yet, that was first on the list

In reply to jeffsheard:
If you are planning to buy a new rope, then I would suggest you get a 70m. In fact, I bought a 70m Mammut Revelation straight after my first trip there. Yes a 60m will be fine for 90% of the routes, but I really like long sport routes and there are plenty on Kalymnos.

Even on those routes, you don't seem to need any more than 14 QDs

And definately buy the guidebook, it's worth it just for the photos of Kastelli

In reply to jeffsheard:

If you're looking at a good long 6b+, Travailes d'Hercules is a great one at Spartacus sector which in itself would justify the extra £'s for a 70m rope :p

In reply to Morgan Woods:

13me Travailes d'Hercules is a cool route, but possible to climb on a 60m rope easily, swing to the left as you lower off and you can walk off an intermediate ledge about 5m up from the start. Lots of routes are doable on a 60m that are circa 32m in the guide, just be paranoid about putting knots in the end and you'll find you are normally ok.

In reply to Chris the Tall:

2nd vote for the 70m Revelation!

In reply to Max_01:
Yep, you'd probably be OK on Hercules, but there are now several other long routes in that area as well

Another good area if you have a long rope is Sea Breeze - several excellant long routes around the 6b mark

In reply to Chris the Tall:

The Sea Breeze area is definitely on the list, so I really appreciate the "on the ground" beta - thanks

In reply to jeffsheard:
To be honest, you really can't go wrong - there are so many good crags there (have just booked flights for my 5th trip!)
When are you going ?

In reply to Chris the Tall:

Mid August! I know it's not the best time of year, but hopefully it'll be ok in the mornings. I've done a couple of longer routes at Portland, but that was on a 50m rope, using stretch etc to get to the bottom, and it was good fun. The option to do longer stuff would be great.

In reply to jeffsheard:
In that case you'll definately want the longer rope cos you'll be spending a lot of time up at Spartacus (left of Grand Grotta) - it gets the sun the latest of the main crags and has several long routes (including Hercules, as mentioned above)

Symblegades is a good crag with shade, Summertime is north facing but a bit scrapy

I also recommend the sea traverse at Vathy - just go for a swim when you get too hot

In reply to Chris the Tall:

Thanks for the info Chris, I seem to be following you round Europe what with the Dolomites and all! Have a good trip yourself

In reply to jeffsheard: Jeff, Take a 70 and 16 quickdrawers! Theres some routes you need a 70 for. One far left hand side of Sparticus is listed as 2 pitches, but its one run out 35 metres at 6b! Awesome! Theres loads but don't leave yourself short! Oh and by your profile you can onsight 6c indoors so you'll be about same grade in Kaly! enjoy, but you'll bake in August!

In reply to icemanyeh:

Yeah, 70 sounds like the way to go. Any specific recommendations? The Revelation seems like a good bet, but a Serenity would only weigh 3.6kgs....

And just to clear things up, the "Saya" reply was me on my better halfs laptop.

In reply to jeffsheard: The mammut is a good rope, but the outer sheath seems to swell a little with alot of use. I would go for a fat rock slim, elderid, great rope, plenty of stretch to smooth out the falls and keeps its shape.

In reply to Max_01:

Tales of Greek Heroes 6b+ just right of Hercules needs every centimetre of your 70m rope - and 15 quickdraws. Take Care - I agree with the paranoia warning above.

In reply to lynda:I agree there is plenty of stuff to do with a 60, but I would take a 70 just for the likes of trella as its such good fun.

And just to make you green....see that house below poets? thats my dad's that is!!

In reply to icemanyeh:

yeah but it has a in intermediate lower off so you can lower to that, clip in, pull the rope and then get lowered to the ground. Could do in on a 50m if you needed to.

Tales of greek heroes I did as my last route in Kalymnos and had to leave a bail 'biner behind so agree it is not one for a 60m. Glad I did rather than faff around with retrievable sling as we got down to the bottom to find the ferries weren't running and had to get a real hustle on to get packed and make it over to pothia for the Cat. Airport day is always a bit of a lottery when you're flying from a different island- just be wary if it is a bit blowy.

In reply to Max_01:

Thanks to all for the advice, I'm mad keen to get there now, and some of those longer routes might get seen on the second week!

On ropes, think I'm gonna get a Mammut Revolution, Edelrids always go twisty on me.

In case anyone searches on Kalymnos and finds this thread, a friend at my local wall told me (which reiterates what Max said above):
"You can't clip and thread the bolts on Kalymnos at the same time. Take a few old karabiners you're not bothered about leaving, and if you need to bail out on a route, clip the krab and lower off of that."

It hadn't crossed my mind, so I'm glad it'll be the 10 year old ones and not the new Spectres that get left if I wimp out!

In reply to jeffsheard:

get a 70m, its just annoying not to have one.

good luck with the heat.

In reply to jeffsheard: 3rd vote for the revelation, a fantastic rope worth every penny

In reply to jeffsheard:

I bought an 80m Mammut Revelation, perfect rope for Kalymnos, onsighting long routes... Worth noting it is not designed for rough use, dont use it for working routes or you will be cutting it sooner than heavier duty ropes.

Most routes wont require an 80m, but I remember a few that did, Reptil at Panorama, and some of the other extended routes at Panorama were pushing 40m from the ground spring to mind.

Btw I did Sea Breeze on my first trip there, one of the best slab routes I have done!