UKC

What do people think of Tremadog?

We were originally planning on heading for Gogarth next week, but someone suggested to us that Tremadog might be a better place to go for our first time in Wales as it's a little less daunting than Gogarth.

Question is, is there any decent multi-pitches from S-HVS in Tremadog?

In reply to dutybooty: Have you looked in the database here, or in a guidebook? If not, go and do your own research then come back with specific questions based on what you've found out.

In view of the age on your profile I'm stopping short of suggesting that you're just poking your head out from under a bridge. I may of course be wrong. I also hope that not all of your climbing has been indoors, or you're going with someone who has climbed at one or other place before.

T.

In reply to dutybooty:

Tremadog is a good crag. Suggest getting a guidebook to help with routing though.

Gogath is not for the uninitiated.

In reply to dutybooty:
There are indeed many superb 2 pitch routes at these grades. Off the top of my head: H.S. Craig Ddu Wall or Christmas Curry, V.S. Grim Wall, Shadrach Claptons Crack One Step In The Clouds, H.V.S. The Fang, Merlin Direct or the Arete on Craig Pant Ifan(Cant quite remember the name but its a great easy H.V.S.)There are many others and for sure it is way more user friendly than Gogarth. You should be able to do much more climbing too with the proximity to the road.....

In reply to dutybooty: BTW was it you who proposed Ian Pasley for pope?

In reply to dutybooty:

Get the new(ish) Snowdonia selected climbs guide which should be good enough for a few visits. It will give you a good few hints and ideas. Another area to consider (if the weather is fine) is Cwm Silyn. It's a 45 minute walk-in but has a series of excellent routes from VDiff (Outside Edge Route) upwards. Kirkus' Route (VS); Kirkus' Direct and Crucible (both HVS) are well worth doing.

ALC

In reply to martin heywood: 'the Arete on Craig Pant Ifan'

Scratch Arete

In reply to John2:
Or its neighbour Silly arete if you are feeling a bit more adventurous (my fav route)

In reply to dutybooty: Was thinking of heading to the Foundry tommorrow for a guide book.

To the person that suggested I'm just poking my head out from under a bridge, definately not. Been climbing outdoors for 3 years now and indoors for 2 years before that.

Unfortunately, if we end up at Tremadog no-one in the group will of climbed there before. If it was Gogarth the 2 drivers from the group have climbed there before which is why it was our initial choice.

Anyway Christmas Curry is definately on the list.

In reply to MjrTom:
Though a bit tough for your average H.V.S. leader....

In reply to dutybooty:

Gogarth is immeasurably better than Tremadog as long as everyone is confident about sea cliffs/abseils/prusiking etc and solid at VS. If not then Tremadog would probably be a better option. The main problem at Tremadog is route-finding but I found that a combination of North Wales Rock and the last CC guide seemed to make everything easier to find.

Best routes I've done there are:

Craig Dhu Wall (HS and the best route I've ever done at the grade)
Grim Wall (VS)
Merlin Direct (apparently 'soft HVS' but I found it middle of the grade)

In reply to martin heywood:

Yeah thats true.

Yeah dont forget christmas curry with the Micah finish. takes the gradde from S 4a to HS 4b but worth it

I'd say that at Sev-HVS, you'd have a better day out at Tremadog than at Gogarth. Not saying there's nout to do at Gogarth - there is, eg Rap, Dream etc - but there's loads to do at Trem at those grades.

In reply to climbingpixie:

I am not so sure about this. I have been on some "classic" Gogarth routes that were almost totally covered in lichen.Of course for atmosphere it is way more impressive but in terms of rock quality, great protection and quality lines Tremadog is up there with the best(IMHO).Also has some of the most reliable weather around and a great spread of grades.

In reply to martin heywood:

To be honest I'm shocked, the OP asked for routes of S-HVS and most of the suggestions have been at those grades. Normally by now this thread would be a fine collection of E1/2 sandbags....

In reply to dutybooty: OK, fair enough. Tremadog is probably easier to get to grips with, as it were, than Gogarth, which can be intimidating on first aquaintance. The main difficulty with it is stumbling round in the trees at the foot of the cliff trying to find the places were routes start.

At the lower end of its grade range, Christmas Curry (Micah finish), Poor man's Peuterey and Creag Dhu Wall are all S/HS classics for good reason, though the crag that CDW is on is a little removed from the others and I'd advise you to start on those crags. There are a number of other classics in the VS/HVS range and the guidebook will point you at them (though won't guide you through the trees to their starts). Of the routes in your grade range that the guidebook might inspire you to try, it's worth noting that Striptease (VS) stays a little drier for longer than other routes should it rain.

Don't forget to check the tide times if you are heading for Gogarth with eyes on areas where that might be an issue.

T.

In reply to MjrTom:


<<serious sandbag alert>>

In reply to dutybooty:

Tremadog is akin Stanage and Gogarth is well GOGARTH.


Leagues apart - different attitude required for main cliff...

Tremadogs fine, if its hot and sunny it can be a bit overbearing with heat being south facing ... best in evenings or spring autumn or dull days.

also look at the molewyns in the mountains around 30 -45 drive away great mountain crags rough rock and atmosphere.


cafes at all three places worthy of a cup of tea at least --- camping at Erics Tremadog...


lots to do !

Be sure to get either definitive guides, Tremadog, Merrionedd, Gogarth or Paul Williams Guide or Ground upguide (nice crags shots )

In reply to Al Evans:

Yeah should have known better lol. did reprieve my actions by suggesting the classic Christmas Curry with the alternate finish
Well within the grade from the OP

In reply to dutybooty:
http://tremadog.wetpaint.com/?t=anon will help a lot in finding where some of the routes are, and also identifes some excellent routes that have been cleaned recently (with associated changes from the guidebook descriptions).

In reply to Ian McNeill:

Goo analogy - head for the recognised classics and you'll spend half the day queueing, move a couple of hundred meteres along the crag and you'll have your pick of some fine routes

In reply to dutybooty: f*ck yer tremadog! Best crag in north wales. Get on stromboli, strapiombo, scratch, scratch arete, poor mans peuterey, one step, rio, borneo (cleaned it!), shadrach, get on some E1's if you can, the plum, barbarian, bloody awesome. You will have a far better day on tremadog and get more done, and can probably get a piece of carrot cake in too.

Tremadog all the way. Go to tremadog.
It has everything to make a perfect day of climbing.

In reply to Sgt. Vest:
Good on you sergeant, with you all the way. Not sure though if Erics caff is still open.
F*ck yer Tremadog indeed (how I wish I had an exclamation mark on my keyboard)

In reply to martin heywood:
its is ... just almost

In reply to dutybooty:

I went there in the rain once. I hitched to carreg Hyldrem or summut like that, and found a fantastic HVS traverse that stays dry in the rain. Definatly go for that if it's wet.

In reply to climbingpixie:


You really need to spend more time in Scotland!

In reply to Jamie B.:

Or on Cyrn Las.

In reply to dutybooty:

Another vote for Tremadog. In the grade range you can't beat it.

In reply to dutybooty: and striptease, also good. Apologies for the french in the earlier post, just get a bit excited over the thought of that heavenly place.

In reply to martin heywood:

It's a matter of taste, I guess. I've been to Tremadog twice and it hasn't really enthused me. It's good but if I'm in North Wales there's a lot of other places I'd rather climb. And I'd take a sea cliff over an inland crag any time, especially one with the atmosphere of Gogarth.

In reply to Jamie B.:

You're right, I really do. It's a glaring omission from my climbing experiences.

In reply to climbingpixie:
Cant argue about Gogarth, but I think from H.V.Sor maybe lower) to E4 Tremadog is a brilliant place to learn technique, gear placement and get strong without a lot of the complications of other paces.
I know many dont like the "roadsideness" of the place but each to his own.
By the way which routes did you do?

In reply to Sgt. Vest:
By the way sergeant, hows Borneo? I was always slightly disappointed when I did lesser known routes at Trem.

In reply to martin heywood:
I did Borneo a couple of months ago, and was highly impressed, I'd give it 3 stars. Can be done in 2 pitches with a semi-hanging belay, or with 60m ropes in a single very long pitch (I did it this way). Pitch 1, fairly easy but not much gear, pitch 2 sustained with all the gear you want.

In reply to Toreador:
yes? Three stars at Tremadog? That would make it better than Extraction. Bloody hell....

In reply to martin heywood:
That one's a bit too hard for me to compare it to
It was better than Valerie's Rib though.
Anyway, I did say that I would give it 3 stars - others have suggested 2.

In reply to climbingpixie:

Actually I just spat that out without too much thought, as I didn't really see what the big deal was with CDW. Good, but not iconic and slaver-inducing. Having since actually given it some thought I've realised that Scotland is actually fairly underwhelming at Hard Severe, partly because it doesnt seem to be a grade we actually use all that much, but also because the really good routes that get this grade dont warrant it (see Ardverikie Wall, Rainmaker) and the ones that do are graded something else! (Commando Crack, Nirvana Wall, Butterknife, Grooved Arete)

The Southwest is Hard Severe Valhalla; anyone who does Central Groove, Right Angle and Doorpost in a day (entirely do-able) will probably ejaculate.

In reply to dutybooty:

Some of the highest quality technical rock climbing that you'll find anywhere, on superb, near perfect rock. Many/most are at least two pitches. On top of all that, it is a fantastically fast-drying crag, and is in a major 'rain-shadow'. When it's wet in the mountains, Tremadoc scarcely ever lets you down.

In reply to dutybooty: striptease is a must in the rain it stays dry. and it will test ur minerals.

In reply to lee richards:
I climbed it in the rain the first time, and was glad that there was something climbable, but it was much more enjoyable doing it in dry conditions. I wouldnt recommend saving it for a rainy day.(As I did)

In reply to martin heywood:
We did Borneo last August, a great route by I think Mike Lewis, unfortunately it was EXTREMELY loose at the the top, in fact a rock fall virtually severed one rope. I understand the last bit has now stabilised - can anyone confirm this?