UKC

NEWS: Pamela Varco Onsights Lucille Offwidth (5.12+) - USA

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 Jack Geldard 02 Jul 2008
Hot on the heels of the recent ascents of Ray's Roof in the Peak District, we have news of more off-width action from across the water. Dougald MacDonald reports:

Pamela Pack Varco has onsighted Lucille (5.12+) at Vedauwoo, Wyoming, making the first female ascent and likely fifth or sixth overall ascent of the legendary offwidth and squeeze chimney. Jay Anderson first led Lucille free in 1988 after years of effort; Craig Luebben did the second ascent and the first onsight.

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=07&year=2008#n45064
 Morgan Woods 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

great effort but looks nasty!
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Good for her.

("years of effort" - shudder).

What is the hardest US offwidth? Bellyful of Bad Berries, or is that old hat? 5.13a or so? Do they get harder than that?

jcm
 TobyA 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Regardless of whether its nature or nuture, we can be pretty certain that if Pamela and John have kids, the sprogs are going to get up to some really sick sh** in climbing terms! I suspect the child would eat Rays Roof for breakfast.
 BelleVedere 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

can someone give me a sense of scale for the photo? How high is it?
In reply to es:

I haven't been there, but from pictures with people on the route I'd say what you're looking at is about 80-100 feet high from the ground to the top of the crag.

jcm
 BelleVedere 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

OK next question, was she the one in parallel o jams?
 galpinos 02 Jul 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Bloody hell, that news report photo really doesn't do it justice. It looks like you could hand jam the top crack to me, not get your whole body in it!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 02 Jul 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I think its is a bit bigger than that. What the photo doesn't show is the 30' roof crack to reach the upper section!


Chris
 Michael Ryan 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> I think its is a bit bigger than that. What the photo doesn't show is the 30' roof crack to reach the upper section!

This one does Chris

http://www.vedauwoo.org/images/Lucy2.jpg

 BelleVedere 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

now that *does* look brutal
 Morgan Woods 02 Jul 2008
In reply to es:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> parallel o jams?

great route name!
 Michael Ryan 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


"As George Kennedy almost said "any crack that looks like that just gotta be named Lucille."

From the master himself..

http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=850&g2_GALLERYSID=4c67...
 BelleVedere 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Morgan Woods:

I was thinking more the film


and i think i was getting confused with Vera Schultze Pelkhum
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

That's the same one I linked to, Mick.

I meant the vertical distance, so the 30' roof crack doesn't really affect it.

jcm
 Michael Ryan 02 Jul 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
sorry John, missed that
 dougald 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

We hope to post photos of Pamela on the route later this week.

Jay Anderson's story about the first ascent is a classic. It's in the July 1991 issue of Rock & Ice and the book "The Best of Rock & Ice."

Dougald
Climbing.com
 TobyA 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: That's where I had seen all the pictures of her "bouldering" http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1165 and hence new she has some major waddage going!
 Michael Ryan 02 Jul 2008
In reply to TobyA:

How rad is that?

http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1808

Takes some balls!
 TobyA 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Wow, what a set of cams. I'm in love.
 BelleVedere 02 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

from the same album

http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1679

just sick <shakes head>
 Ian Patterson 03 Jul 2008
In reply to es:

From forum on the same site (should I really be going to widefetish.com from work?!)

'I saw a picture of Lucille years ago and knew Jay Anderson's story and have dreamt of getting on that big, bad offwidth ever since. It was an honor to climb such a tremendous route with such an amazing history and a culmination to my experience climbing in Vedauwoo. As far as the trip report -- I will mention that I thought the whole route was really, really wide so I ended up with no gear after the lip and punched it to the anchor. I climbed a good portion completely inverted and pivoted right-side in. I am not sure if anyone else has climbed it right side-in?! I can't imagine even thinking of getting on that route when Jay Anderson did before big cams and Big Bros -- yikes! ~Pamela (Shanti)'

....????!!!!!
In reply to Ian Patterson:

I was vaguely wondering what Jay Anderson used for protection. If anything.

jcm
Waldmeister 04 Jul 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Is this fun, healthy ... ???

http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1437
 Morgan Woods 04 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to TobyA)
>
> > http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1808
>

for some reasonMick i didn't think that link was going to be worksafe ;o
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