/ NEWS: Pamela Varco Onsights Lucille Offwidth (5.12+) - USA
Pamela Pack Varco has onsighted Lucille (5.12+) at Vedauwoo, Wyoming, making the first female ascent and likely fifth or sixth overall ascent of the legendary offwidth and squeeze chimney. Jay Anderson first led Lucille free in 1988 after years of effort; Craig Luebben did the second ascent and the first onsight.
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=07&year=2008#n45064
great effort but looks nasty!
Good for her.
("years of effort" - shudder).
What is the hardest US offwidth? Bellyful of Bad Berries, or is that old hat? 5.13a or so? Do they get harder than that?
can someone give me a sense of scale for the photo? How high is it?
I haven't been there, but from pictures with people on the route I'd say what you're looking at is about 80-100 feet high from the ground to the top of the crag.
Like this one:
OK next question, was she the one in parallel o jams?
Bloody hell, that news report photo really doesn't do it justice. It looks like you could hand jam the top crack to me, not get your whole body in it!
I think its is a bit bigger than that. What the photo doesn't show is the 30' roof crack to reach the upper section!
now that *does* look brutal
> parallel o jams?
great route name!
"As George Kennedy almost said "any crack that looks like that just gotta be named Lucille."
From the master himself..
I was thinking more the film
and i think i was getting confused with Vera Schultze Pelkhum
That's the same one I linked to, Mick.
I meant the vertical distance, so the 30' roof crack doesn't really affect it.
sorry John, missed that
We hope to post photos of Pamela on the route later this week.
Jay Anderson's story about the first ascent is a classic. It's in the July 1991 issue of Rock & Ice and the book "The Best of Rock & Ice."
How rad is that?
Takes some balls!
from the same album
just sick <shakes head>
From forum on the same site (should I really be going to widefetish.com from work?!)
'I saw a picture of Lucille years ago and knew Jay Anderson's story and have dreamt of getting on that big, bad offwidth ever since. It was an honor to climb such a tremendous route with such an amazing history and a culmination to my experience climbing in Vedauwoo. As far as the trip report -- I will mention that I thought the whole route was really, really wide so I ended up with no gear after the lip and punched it to the anchor. I climbed a good portion completely inverted and pivoted right-side in. I am not sure if anyone else has climbed it right side-in?! I can't imagine even thinking of getting on that route when Jay Anderson did before big cams and Big Bros -- yikes! ~Pamela (Shanti)'
I was vaguely wondering what Jay Anderson used for protection. If anything.
> > http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1808
for some reasonMick i didn't think that link was going to be worksafe ;o
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