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EXCLUSIVE GEAR REVIEW: Tom Dixon on the Five Ten Anasazi V2

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 Michael Ryan 12 Jul 2008
The New Pink is White: The Five Ten Anasazi V2

Five Ten's Anasazi 'Pink' has been a firm favourite of climbers all around the climbing globe for many a year. But could it get any better? They tried with the Anasazi Verde (the Green) and now we have Anasazi V2 or 'The White'.

Tom Dixon takes an exclusive and close up look.

Read the full review here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1095

Tom Dixon is available on this thread for questions about this review and the Five Ten Anasazi V2.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Looks good - let's just hope it's not a case of "If it ain't broke don't fix it!"
 205Chris 12 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Anyone know why they reverted to Stealth C4 rubber as opposed to the Stealth Onyx rubber? I seem to recall when the Verdes came out 5.10 made a big thing about Onyx rubber being stickier and longer lasting.

You would have thought they'd put the best rubber on one of their most popular shoes?
In reply to 205Chris:

It's supposed to be temperature related. The Verde is a less stiff and the Onyxx is stickiest at lower temps, ie a grit shoe.
The Whites are stiffer and use Stealth, which works better than Onyxx at higher temps- ie Euro Sport shoe.
 martin heywood 12 Jul 2008
In reply to Tom
Sounds like an admission that the greens were a step backwards, lets see if everyone is clamouring for the return of the classic pinks before long.
Thanks for the explanation about the old pink heel,I always thought there must have been a reason for the ridiculous shape.
 execlimber 13 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: when do they come out and how much do they cost, i heard a rumour that they were near £100.
OP Michael Ryan 13 Jul 2008
In reply to richpencott:

> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) when do they come out and how much do they cost, i heard a rumour that they were near £100.

Are you able to read as well as write?

http://new.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1095

 execlimber 13 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: very good my mistake
 duncan 13 Jul 2008
In reply to Tom Dixon:

In the early 80s Charles Cole was pretty nifty on slabs as well as big walls. At the time the hard slab route was Hall of Mirrors on Glacier Point Apron (around 5.13a or 7c+). http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=527185&msg=52762...

Charles wanted to do the second ascent and started learning to make sticky rubber with this in mind.

 galpinos 14 Jul 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Bought a pair on saturday and gave them a run out at Awesome wall and at Malham yesterday.

Pretty much as Tom says, stiffer, lower volume toe, rand rams your toes forward. Fantastic. I'll keep using my greens for big trad/multi-pitch stuff and grit, and use the whites for lime/sport.

They also do look very fly. What more could you want?

(I can't tell any difference in the rubber)
In reply to martin heywood:
> In reply to Tom
> Sounds like an admission that the greens were a step backwards,

Not at all. For most people (including me) the green is the better shoe. The protential problems with the Verde were that the toe box is roomier and it isn't as stiff. That meant that those with very low volume feet and the harder limestone climbers needed something a little different.

I stock both and given a free choice as many people will want to go for the Verde (including British Team members).

In short, they are both good. It is just a question of which is best for your foot and your climbing style.

Iain
 CragX 14 Jul 2008
In reply to north country boy: Whoops, didn't realsie we were logged in as Dan.

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