In reply to Neil Foster:
"....but, am I the only one who thinks this looks (at least from the photos) like a tottering heap of vegetation (which probably smells of fish)."
You're quite right Neil all of the cliffs on Hoy are a tottering pile of rotten sandstone, vegetation and smells of fish with the occasional secton of good rock. This includes the Old Man (climbed by 1,000's) which is slowly disintegrating, and falling into the sea. When climbing the Old Man you are likely to met and get puked at by more Fulmars on the Ordinary Route than you are on Testament - well that's my experience having climbed both routes twice. We called our route Testament to the Insane back in 2004 because it was and remains so. I personally wouldn't recommend it to anyone, unless Hoy is your kind of thing. So Neil don't go there, you wont enjoy it
As Al and Carless know The Head is a very special and commiting place. It is also slowly falling down.
Iain and I had a cracking day out last Wednesday on the only day the Head was clear of cloud that week and it was great to go back and whip up the route this time, now we knew it would go and do it cleanly and in a more sensible time. We had some cracking climbing qnd I still have to go back for another trip up the main face having previously been rained off the second pitch and having to bail. I like the analogy with the Dolomites, bailing from the top of the second pitch of the Original Route involves 250m of abseil back to the beach and then reascending the cliff by the rotten vegetated descent route further up the coast.