UKC

Sharma - Biograhie, Ceuse - 5.15a

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 Michael Ryan 18 Jul 2001
Reported on <newenglandbouldering.com>

7/18/01 Ceuse, France
     Our sources report that Chris Sharma has completed the extension to Biographie and is calling the complete route 5.15a. Stay tuned for more details, which no doubt will be coming from all corners of the world wide web. Congrats to Chris!

Charles - get on it, and we want photographs.

Mick
Rockfax USA
OP Michael Ryan 18 Jul 2001
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Bets on who doesn't next McClure or Graham.

Mick
South Devon Rock Hugger 18 Jul 2001
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Do you mean who does it next?

5.15a - that's 9a+ in French, is it? I thought that he never graded things, or is that just boulder problems?
Dom Orsler 18 Jul 2001
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Be careful mentioning Sharma/Graham, etc! I did so a while ago, not out of pure admiration, but out of curiosity and got well-slated by some people who got the idea I was their marketing agent, or something. Even more amusingly, some voiced the opinion that Graham is only good because he sticks at what he's good at and his achievements are no big deal! What was it they said, 'steep and crimpy', implying it was easy?

So I suppose these people would also think that Biographie is no big deal, either. After all, it's on bolts, so how hard can it be? I suppose, by the same rationale, what the Dawes did back in the late 80's was no big deal, either - just sticking to what he was good at. Y'know, no pro, deadly, pure friction, visionary, E8-type stuff. No big deal, I suppose!
OP Michael Ryan 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Dom Orsler:

"So I suppose these people would also think that Biographie is no big deal, either"

They'd have to be non-climbers or extremely cynical.

Mick
 Adam Lincoln 19 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger:

He didnt grade it! Its other peoples opinions of what they think it is
John 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Where did you get that from Adam? Did you find an article about it somewhere?
 Adam Lincoln 19 Jul 2001
In reply to John:

Email from someone who's out there actually
squawk 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Great to see that we are reporting news rather than that someone has nearly done something. Congrats to Chris Sharma for sticking with this project, it must be one of the best routes in the world, stunning line the very top level of difficulty and a route for all those boulderers out there to aspire too!! A bit of a walk in too! The mental effort for Chris to keep going back to this route year after year just about says it all Well done.
John 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Excellent ... anything further to share with the rest of us?
squawk 19 Jul 2001
In reply to John: We are talking news as it happens, that's the net for you, no more waiting weeks / months for out dated magazines!
 Adam Lincoln 19 Jul 2001
In reply to John:

Only the same as what is now on Climbingmedia.com
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

There is a bit of oneupmanship with regard to getting news items on the web however, Squwak's fundamental point is a very solid one. How will this story look when it final appears in OTE? - a bit old and dusty!

Not sure where ClimbingMedia got the information from, presumably it must have been an onsight reporter since (once again) they haven't quoted a source.
Mick Ryan got it from here, as he stated clearly.

Alan
me or someone else? 19 Jul 2001
In reply to John: is this official enough? http://www.planetmountain.com/English/home.html?-database=newseng&-layout=scheda&-response=News%2fDetail1.html&-recordID=33082&-search
 Adam Lincoln 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Alan James - ROCKFAX:

onsight reporter
MattH 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Alan James - ROCKFAX:

Source: My brother, who is climbing in Ceuse with these guys at the moment. It just so happened to be his birthday yesterday so he emailed this morning to say hi, and told me the news. He is 26, has shaggy brown hair and a sun tan.
How much more info do you want?

Co-incidentally, shortly before I received the above mentioned email, I had heard through the grapevine that it had been done last night. I did not want to report it based on such rumours, so I emailed my brother to ask him.
In reply to MattH:

Excellent Matt. Great reporting, I take my hat off to you.
Why not credit your brother when reporting it though? It just looks so much more professional. To be honest, it is the only thing, for me, which lets down your undoubtedly efficient news reporting.

Alan
John 19 Jul 2001
In reply to MattH: Can't get better info than that!!
MattH 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Alan James - ROCKFAX:

I take your point Alan. Cheers.
It was the (once again) comment that riled me...
 Adam Lincoln 19 Jul 2001
In reply to MattH:

Done forget the tanned arms which he tell us, makes him climb harder!
In reply to MattH:

Apologies for that Matt.

However you do have 15 news items on your main news page and only one of them has a source quoted. I can't believe these are all from people like your brother. If they are all self-originated then maximum respect and even more apologies for the dig comment. But without a reference to anyone, even your brother, how are we to know?

Alan
 Adam Lincoln 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Alan James - ROCKFAX:

I think you'll find they are Alan.

All I can say is that its good to see a website that reports good news, as it happens. Unlike sites such as 8a.nu which tells you everytime some guy climbs a font 8a..
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

I think you'll find they aren't Adam.

Not all of them need sources, and some contain quotes from people who probably are sources, but there is seldom a link to further information, or another site where you can read more.

However I agree that Climbing Media is a good site with some great news reporting. Don't know about 8a.nu. He gets some good scoops but he does tend to report some trivial stuff as well.


Alan
Jamesbmp 19 Jul 2001
In reply to Adam Lincoln: How can you say he didnt grade it? He named the route 5.15a, surely thats making quite a clear statement of the grade?
 Adam Lincoln 20 Jul 2001
In reply to Jamesbmp:
think you miss read the report
John 20 Jul 2001
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Hope Sharma, Graham etc. will head to Suirana ... would love to see someone repeat Alex Huber's La Rambla. I stood underneath it ... intimidating is the only word to describe it!
dan evans 20 Jul 2001
In reply to John: i hope they head over to les eaux claire (fred rouhling country) and try some real hard routes. i've seen them climbed on and the 1 9a has some moves on i couldn't belive. incredible.....
 Chris Fryer 20 Jul 2001
I was sure I heard at one time this route had shed a couple of holds. Has it now been climbed without them, or have some been created. No accusations, just curious. Yes I did post this on the other Biographie thread too.
Jamesbmp 20 Jul 2001
In reply to Adam Lincoln: ".....completed the extension to Biographie and is calling the complete route 5.15a.....". I dont think i mis-read that.

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