UKC

I tried a 5b boulder probem at Birchins today. And really struggled to do it. I was told it was a tricky 5b, due to a total lack of footholds, however 5b is 5b.

I have noticed that I am am struggling a lot more than I did about 8 years ago. I'm really surprised how getting past 40 affects ones performance. I now I might be stating the obvious, but I am really surprised by my lack of agility these days.

A young chap wizzed straight up it and made it look easy ( after severeal failures)

Anyone had similar experiences, or do you simply train harder? Or perhaps drink less ( which might help)

In reply to pingod:

Yes

In reply to pingod:

Always. But I don't think it's age. It's just that I'm sh*t.

In reply to pingod:

Absolutely. Especially after a lay off of several months playing computer games and guzzling.
You can't be fit without the work outs it seems. But I don't think you are too ood to get fit again.

In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:

I'm definitely too ood.

In reply to pingod:


Yes.



No.


Mick (55)

In reply to pingod:
Fraid so - however a gang of us got up half dome a few years back and our ages were - 39 (wipper snapper and main leader on my rope!), 45, 51 and 53.

Mind you weve just got back from a miserable attempt on the Nose a few weeks ago! Not particularly to do with age - but certainly doesn't help.

In reply to pingod:

>"I'm really surprised how getting past 40 affects ones performance."

I find I need to rest more and be more measure in my warm-up but beside that I'm finding that I've actually been improving over the last couple of years but his probably mainly due to doing more bouldering and a more positive approach to trying harder climbs and risking failing (on safe climbs).

I'm sure I'd not need to look too hard to find a 5b I struggle on despite being fairly reliable at working 6a problems. I wouldn't measure myself against one problem or one crag.

In reply to pingod:

Maybe if you were already at your genetic limit, but as I don't think there's a climber in the world who could claim that, the only factor is how much you still want it. I turned 40 a couple of months ago, and after the initial shock and depression, I'm now stronger and fitter than I ever have been. I don't see why I can't continue to push it for another 10yrs, the only limiting factor will be motivation.

In reply to pingod: I'm now 41.5 and my finger strength is better than when I was younger HOWEVER!±!! on a recent photo I did notice that my stomach has perhaps become slightly bigger than my waist.... so I too feel ood and "I be mostly eating tofu and not drinking beer this week" as a kind of penance.

In reply to pingod:
I'm really surprised how getting past 40 affects ones performance.

Turned 41 in May and been climbing for about 3 years. I did a route the other day that I tried desperatley to do when I started and flew up it.

I don't know if its because I was fit and strong up to about 27 then did nothing up until 38, but I'm only getting better. At this rate I'll be climbing E9 when I'm 50.

In reply to evs1066: e9 by 50 sounds promising! I think I'm technically better than when I was younger but I don't know if I'm as bold/foolhardy

In reply to david Pike:

At 50+ I find it easier to develop strength than when I was younger.
(Partly knowing how to train & eat & perhaps).

However keeping weight under control is much harder (I swear I can now get fat by telepathy)

The big problem is recovery from injury takes forever & you're well aware that you no longer have forever.

In reply to Serpico: I turned 40 a couple of months ago


Hahahahahahahaha - does that make you one of the 'greys' now then ??!!

In reply to pingod: I'm with you there...43 now and finding every aspect harder for rock climbing but my winter climbing has probably gone down hill but to a lesser extent!

Joint problems (esp knees, elbows), niggling injuries, slow recovery........and hate watching young kids stroll up things that i used to!

In reply to pingod:

Enjoy every day - once you are 'over the hill(!)' every year is tougher than the one before - and there is no way back!


Chris

In reply to pingod: I find that the dividing line between being properly warmed up and completely trashed is getting much finer as the years pass...

T.

In reply to Simon Lee:

I'm OK talking about it now as I'm officially 'out', but we're still not at the laughing about it stage.

In reply to Serpico:

Look on the bright side, there's always someone worse off.
Usually me.

What happenned to those articles you were going to write?
I'm still holding my breath here.

In reply to i.munro:
3 done, need to pull my finger out and get the rest finished (or more accurately; started...).

In reply to Serpico:

Sounds good.

In reply to Serpico:

You may want to hurry before senility robs you of....

what was I saying?

I don't suppose plyometrics get covered. I've been a bit puzzled by that recently.

In reply to Serpico:


Found it !!: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=126912&v=1#x1752787


Roll back 3 years ago when you were a mere 36/37 and I was 40/41.

Whose the greypointer now then grandad ?

In reply to Simon Lee:
I'd completely forgotten that. You must write these things down to be used in evidence at an appropriate time.

In reply to Serpico:

One crossed out on the grudge list - 257 left to go.