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just got back from the sunderland wall, and while i had a good time found it hard to tell some of the colours of the holds. Has anyone else had the same problem, and do you think it would be a good idea if they put symbles next to each hold to help identify the colour of holds that are covered in chalk. Maybe i sould mention this to the staff next time im there, dose any one know if other wall do this to help colour blind or climbers who are short sighted.
In reply to russty: so your sayin putting a symbol next to a hold will help you decide weather it is blue or green when covered in chalk, what about when your tryin to chose the right hold for your foot, just bend down and look at the symbol???
dan
dan
In reply to danny 7a+: if you are going to use it as a foothold you have already climbed past it a few seconds before and while my eyes may play tricks on me my memory is good enough to remember what hold i just saw with the corect symble next to it
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In reply to russty: some holds indoors you only end up using for feet/hands so if you havent put your hand on it you wont know what colour it is??
dan
dan
In reply to russty:
I find it a nightmare to see the colours of holds especially for feet, so I generally only climb bright orange routes!
I find it a nightmare to see the colours of holds especially for feet, so I generally only climb bright orange routes!
In reply to danny 7a+: have you never stood at the bottom of a route and memorised the sequence of holds you are going to use before you set off. its the same as at the wall although it may be tricky to spot the holds even with symbles next to them on the longer routes while on the ground. But as i said you will be able to note which holds were which as you climb past them. By the way i am not saying only use symbles to identify routes only they may help when the coloured holds get covered in chalk.
In reply to russty: no to be honest i dont memorise routes i dont there find the need to there in bright bloody plastic colours right in front of you face why memorise there there for you they usually go left right left right left right left right
In reply to russty: for the record, I agree. A local wall near myself has two green routes next to each other, a grey and a black route next to each other, and an orange and a red route next to each other. Vdiff to work it out sometimes. You're not alone.
In reply to danny 7a+:thats the whole point they dont stay bright for long if a load of climbers have covered them in chalk. I dont have troble with the bright colours just with greens reds and paler colours.
In reply to just wanna climb: glad to hear its not just me. Think i will ask the staff if it would be practical or not to put symbles as well next to the coloured holds. if you dont ask you dont get.
In reply to russty: i do understand what your sayin but the ammount off holds and routes in a climbing center it must get difficult to set all routes with complete difficult colours
In reply to mark20:
You could always use features only for feet and alleviate that problem
> (In reply to russty)
> I find it a nightmare to see the colours of holds especially for feet, so I generally only climb bright orange routes!
> I find it a nightmare to see the colours of holds especially for feet, so I generally only climb bright orange routes!
You could always use features only for feet and alleviate that problem
In reply to danny 7a+:
or maybe you've looked at the footholds b4?
or maybe you've looked at the footholds b4?
In reply to russty:
you have it easy. my poor cousin who was as color-blind as they come - basically had to be told where to climb next.
and here in BC - they don't color code routes at all, you have to rely on pieces of duct tape they attach to each hold which is a lot harder to spot - especially since they get rubbed off after a while.
you have it easy. my poor cousin who was as color-blind as they come - basically had to be told where to climb next.
and here in BC - they don't color code routes at all, you have to rely on pieces of duct tape they attach to each hold which is a lot harder to spot - especially since they get rubbed off after a while.
In reply to russty: I'm coloour blind and have a bit of a nightmare recocnising holds at the wall, constantly checking with my belayer which one's I can use. Find it much easier with paterned routes or if they have tags attached... Some walls seem to be better at placing routes more sensibly and cleaning holds which also helps...
My other half is colour blind. When we climb indoors, we always end up looking up at the route for a minute so he can check with me which holds he's allowed to use. Great fun if I'm feeling mean :-P
In reply to russty:
A good thing for colour blind climbers is the spotty holds, say orange hold with blue spots on, or the two colour swirlled holds.
Cos you're looking for the patteren on the hold not the colour.
If you have two lines on a rope, one in a solid colour and one in a spot or a swirl. Colour blind people wouldn't have these problems. Plus most big centres have yellowish lighting which doesn't help either.
It would save marking the wall with a sticker/symbol.
A good thing for colour blind climbers is the spotty holds, say orange hold with blue spots on, or the two colour swirlled holds.
Cos you're looking for the patteren on the hold not the colour.
If you have two lines on a rope, one in a solid colour and one in a spot or a swirl. Colour blind people wouldn't have these problems. Plus most big centres have yellowish lighting which doesn't help either.
It would save marking the wall with a sticker/symbol.
OK so we mark the wall pannels at the side of EVERY hold with a symbol using what?
Chalk will rub off fairly quickly, tape gets pulled off. Marker pen sounds like a great idea untill we reset the wall and have to close it for a week to be completely stripped of holds repainted and reset with new holds/symbols. OK perhaps it won't need re-paining every time we reset but lots of "old" symbols are going to get very confusing, so I would guess a fresh coat of paint would be needed at least once a year.
I fully sympathise with the problems of distinguishing dirty/similar holds but marking the panels is simply not a viable option.
Strippy/spotty holds undoubtedly help but these generally cost more to buy than monocrome ones and not all manufacturers offer it as an option. At The Foundry we use coloured tags under some holds, even these fall out periodically and add afew minuts to the job of routesetting but they do help to distinguish between similar colours on adjacent lines.
Chalk will rub off fairly quickly, tape gets pulled off. Marker pen sounds like a great idea untill we reset the wall and have to close it for a week to be completely stripped of holds repainted and reset with new holds/symbols. OK perhaps it won't need re-paining every time we reset but lots of "old" symbols are going to get very confusing, so I would guess a fresh coat of paint would be needed at least once a year.
I fully sympathise with the problems of distinguishing dirty/similar holds but marking the panels is simply not a viable option.
Strippy/spotty holds undoubtedly help but these generally cost more to buy than monocrome ones and not all manufacturers offer it as an option. At The Foundry we use coloured tags under some holds, even these fall out periodically and add afew minuts to the job of routesetting but they do help to distinguish between similar colours on adjacent lines.
In reply to russty:
God I've seen some awful, pointless, inane, trivial and boring posts in my time. And over a variety of forums too.
Well done for making it to No 2 in my all time dumb a$$ post list.
God I've seen some awful, pointless, inane, trivial and boring posts in my time. And over a variety of forums too.
Well done for making it to No 2 in my all time dumb a$$ post list.
In reply to 220bpm: If you think this post is dribble you should get me going on polotics, it would blow your mind.
In reply to 220bpm: By the way if i get the silver who and what won the gold medal.
In reply to russty: HIs, 10:51, Thursday, perhaps?
In reply to russty: What about dyslexics?
In reply to russty:
Well in some climbing walls they do mark holds in this way. At mile end (in london) they have laminated cards that are wedged behind the hold.
Well in some climbing walls they do mark holds in this way. At mile end (in london) they have laminated cards that are wedged behind the hold.
In reply to russty: What about real rock, it all looks the same. It would be great if someone could paint all the holds a nice bright colour.
In reply to Ade7: on natural rock there is no need to paint the holds bright colours as in this case you DO just follow the white chalk covered holds. But beware sometimes they can lead you off route and into a sense of fauls security.
In reply to russty:
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=39156
A thread discussing the pronunciation of an acronym, which was kinda self-explanatory anyway.........read at your own peril.
ps - thanks for taking my original post with a pinch of salt, I was not having the best of days!
> (In reply to 220bpm) By the way if i get the silver who and what won the gold medal.
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=39156
A thread discussing the pronunciation of an acronym, which was kinda self-explanatory anyway.........read at your own peril.
ps - thanks for taking my original post with a pinch of salt, I was not having the best of days!
In reply to russty: I've been climbing away at redhill high-sports before, only to find they have put pink and red together, and its a really dark pink (and the lighting isn't great there) Its really hard to tell what you are stepping on. One popular route in this state has everything covered in chalk dust too.
In reply to londonrocks:
Ditto at the Tower at Beaumont Leys. On one of the panels, there's a blue route and a green route that I really struggle to tell apart cos of the chalk. (Iain - take note!) Mind you, I'm not really bothered 'cos it gives me chance to cheat.
Ditto at the Tower at Beaumont Leys. On one of the panels, there's a blue route and a green route that I really struggle to tell apart cos of the chalk. (Iain - take note!) Mind you, I'm not really bothered 'cos it gives me chance to cheat.
In reply to russty: on rock you have a guide book and one route has one grade and thats it, in an indoor wall you could stay on the same bit of wall and climb loads of diffrent grades so there is a need to have routs coded in some way. I am red green colour blind and find indoor walls a pain in the back side symbols or somthing as well as colour coding would be greate.
In reply to londonrocks: At Glasgow climbing centre, on the slab at the back there are 2 orange routes and a red route on two panels next to each other.
In reply to lynda: only started this thread as a bit of a moan and for something to do but it does seem as though this is a genuin problem not only of me but for many other people to. Surly someone out there can come up with a cheep and easy to use idea that would solve this problem.
In reply to Jenny C:
Tape.Most walls in Japan where I've been the last year or so use tape-distinguished either by colour or by shape(crosses/triangles/diamonds etc).Doesn't seem to fall off or wear out much.
> OK so we mark the wall pannels at the side of EVERY hold with a symbol using what?
Tape.Most walls in Japan where I've been the last year or so use tape-distinguished either by colour or by shape(crosses/triangles/diamonds etc).Doesn't seem to fall off or wear out much.
In reply to Postmanpat:
Tape's a nightmare. You look up and see a thousand little different colored flags.
Still, good for route finding!
> (In reply to Jenny C)
> [...]
>
> Tape.Most walls in Japan where I've been the last year or so use tape-distinguished either by colour or by shape(crosses/triangles/diamonds etc).Doesn't seem to fall off or wear out much.
> [...]
>
> Tape.Most walls in Japan where I've been the last year or so use tape-distinguished either by colour or by shape(crosses/triangles/diamonds etc).Doesn't seem to fall off or wear out much.
Tape's a nightmare. You look up and see a thousand little different colored flags.
Still, good for route finding!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I find it makes it more like the real thing.
> (In reply to Postmanpat)
>
>
> Still, good for route finding!
>
>
> Still, good for route finding!
I find it makes it more like the real thing.
Place I know uses tape to distinguish between similar colours. They simply put a tag of electrical tape between the hold and the wall when bolting it on. The nextdoor route won't be taped. Not great from all angles but does help.
My, my...I notice that some people on here aren't very helpful are they? Nice to know that you can still ask a simple question and get the I'm sooo good and you're not response. I've been away for a few months and nothing's changed...
My, my...I notice that some people on here aren't very helpful are they? Nice to know that you can still ask a simple question and get the I'm sooo good and you're not response. I've been away for a few months and nothing's changed...
In reply to russty:
>Surly someone out there can come up with a cheep and easy to use idea that would solve this problem.
Redpoint (Brum) is a newish wall so have got a wide range of different holds. Some have a shape theme (animals or letters) and there is a great variety of two-colour combination holds (e.g. brown and white swirls or red and black marbled). It relies on people forking out for them though, which isn't all that likely if a wall has a big stock of older single colour holds.
>Surly someone out there can come up with a cheep and easy to use idea that would solve this problem.
Redpoint (Brum) is a newish wall so have got a wide range of different holds. Some have a shape theme (animals or letters) and there is a great variety of two-colour combination holds (e.g. brown and white swirls or red and black marbled). It relies on people forking out for them though, which isn't all that likely if a wall has a big stock of older single colour holds.
In reply to russty: yes, i sometimes have trouble with the colours, white and black, yellow/grey etc
but the main problem is when a route has say red, blue, white, then the next route has pink,black,white. or colourrs similar etc.
but the main problem is when a route has say red, blue, white, then the next route has pink,black,white. or colourrs similar etc.
In reply to russty:
For the brycs we had to put gaffa tape around every hold (despite there being no colour clashes). When one bit of tape got knocked off the next group assumed that they were only allowed to use every other yellow in the route and not the un-taped one, but other than that it did seem to work ok. Just a bit of an extra hassle when setting/stripping, and not, IMO, necessary at most walls I've been to
For the brycs we had to put gaffa tape around every hold (despite there being no colour clashes). When one bit of tape got knocked off the next group assumed that they were only allowed to use every other yellow in the route and not the un-taped one, but other than that it did seem to work ok. Just a bit of an extra hassle when setting/stripping, and not, IMO, necessary at most walls I've been to
In reply to russty:
Carry and use a wire brush! The climbing wall staff will soon get the idea
< Usual laugh follows>
Carry and use a wire brush! The climbing wall staff will soon get the idea
< Usual laugh follows>
In reply to russty:
Found that last weekend at Ratho..few routes that had confusing coloured ones but..think they were riddled with chalk and the colour was just hidden. Find it at the Tower sometimes too, particularly if you're there early the next day after the night before. Helps me get up no end though
Found that last weekend at Ratho..few routes that had confusing coloured ones but..think they were riddled with chalk and the colour was just hidden. Find it at the Tower sometimes too, particularly if you're there early the next day after the night before. Helps me get up no end though
In reply to russty:
Often the problem is caused, or exacerbated by the use of high efficiency sodium lighting, which has too narrow a colour spectrum of light to allow different hues to be distinguished, slightly less efficient (but still muuch more efficient than halogen)multu vapour lamps do a much better job
Often the problem is caused, or exacerbated by the use of high efficiency sodium lighting, which has too narrow a colour spectrum of light to allow different hues to be distinguished, slightly less efficient (but still muuch more efficient than halogen)multu vapour lamps do a much better job
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