UKC

What are the current best approach shoes for actually rock climbing in? About ten years ago I had some 5.10 trainers that were brilliant, I could solo up to VS in them with no disadvantage, they have finally worn out and had to be chucked.
I have other approach shoes but nothing as good as these were to actually climb in. They had a good last as well as 5.10 sticky soles, close rand, precise lacing etc. Any suggestions? They have to be ok for VS/5sport.

In reply to Al Evans:

i know those shoes you're on about, brilliant they were.


i reckon these should be your next pair 'Guide Tennie' also by 5.10

In reply to Al Evans:
Hey Al,
I tried a pair of these on the other day and they looked great.
You can actually climb in them (proper fit with full on climbing style toe box, but still wearable) I will be getting some. That's my recommendation.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=1113
D

In reply to Al Evans:
Al,
5.10 Guides are still the best I reckon.
I have them and Boreal Flyers. The Flyers look good and are great for appoaches but although they are plenty sticky, they are a bit bendy for climbing.

Bruce

In reply to Al Evans:

I think you had 5.10 Tennie Guides (or rather they were just called Guide in the old days). Still available, and if you order from the states, some real bargains can be had (I got mine for like 60 €).

Merrel Edges were also really good, but either they are no longer imported to Yurp or they are no longer made (shame, they are actually better than my Tennie Guides).

In reply to Al Evans:

i've changed my mind, i want the one on the link

This thread was started in the ROCKTALK forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

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In reply to communier: They do look brilliant, anybody tried them?

In reply to UKC Forums: Thank you, a bit picky though, anybody know where you can buy them on line, the link on the link doesn't take you to sales?

In reply to Al Evans:
I'm sure Lakes Climber have ordered some, but they've yet to be delivered (I think). You can give them a bell for an update on delivery times though (015394 33660) or call Ark (the distributors) for the dealers (01524 822084).
D

In reply to Al Evans: depending on the shape of your feet i'd suggest 5.10 guides of sportiva b5. The sportiva have a narrower toe box. I've lead vs in the guides and it felt fine and i only lead hvs in proper rock shoes.

In reply to Al Evans: Just bought a pair of 5.10 Tennies - absolutely love them!

In reply to John Ww: Thanks all. I'll try and get some on my feet to try when I am over in UK in a couple of weeks.

In reply to dirtbag1:

The Spider X's look excellent, do you think they'd be suitable for the Cuillin?

Ali

In reply to Al Evans:

Problem with the Guide as an approach/climbing shoe is one, not so good on wet grass and two, not so good for walking in compared to an approach shoe with a more pronounced rocker. Guide Tennie is great for climbing in and pottering around at the bottom of the cliff.

As far as 5.10 goes I think, and I have owned both, the Prodigy is superior - I did Tower Ridge in a pair, car to car, have followed E2 on grit with them and led up to VS. You can also fit a crampon to them.

In reply to Al Evans:

I have these http://www.asolo.com/content.asp?L=3&idMen=411

I'm a bit fussy and like a stiffish approach shoe that is robust enough to yomp in to a remote crag. These are stiff enough for fairly decent edging and on the right feet I'm sure would be good for VS. I got mine in Briancon but not seen them in the UK as yet. Never liked 5.10 as they felt a bit soft and sloppy on my feet. Looked at the Sportiva B5's...they look good too.

In reply to Al Evans:

I have a pair of these

http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=17&cod3=504&La...

fit a bit like mountaineeding boots with a good smear patch on the toes and quite sticky rubber. They give plenty of support and feel when climbing.

I also have a well fitting pair of timberland moccasin boots which are better than andything else for climbing in bar proper rockshoes - they have a really good edge and are flexible enough to smear.

In reply to Al Evans: Outside seem to sell the Spider X:

http://www.outside.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/4411||~@c~@b~Nepa~Outdoor|0|...

would be interested to hear if anyone's tried them, if they're up to serious scrambling like Cuilin Ridge...