UKC

A friend is interested and aske dthis question so I thought I would ask the wise for some answers...

Has there been an alpine style ascent of an 8000m peak by a team of
women climbers?

In reply to nz Cragrat:

no they couldnt read the map so gave up and went off shopping instead

In reply to nz Cragrat:

How about Alison Hargreaves solo of everest, or does she not count as a team... Dunno about the style but presumably you can't really do it any other way than alpine style if you're on your own.

In reply to Matt Vigg:

Remember Lydia Bradey climbed it first before Alison - solo w/o O2...

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Didn't know that actually, so don't they both count?

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Neither Hargreaves not Brady were alpine-style. They both went up and down the route to some degree, a route with lots of other people on it, though in Hargreaves case apparently she didn't use the Sherpa-fixed ropes and set her own camps.

Off the top of my head the two Japanese women Takeo Nagao and Yuka Endo repeated the Kurtyka/Loretan/Troillet route on the SW face of ChoOyu in 1995, while one of their husbads (Yasushi Yamanoi) climbed a new route on the same face. No other people on the route, no going up and down.

All female US ascent of Annapurna in 1978 had male Sherpas and was not alpine-style. The 1975 Wanda Rutkewicz et al G2 trip also had Polish males on board, who made the FA of G3.

So I'd say Nagao and Endo are the only ones?

D

In reply to nz Cragrat: Can't remember details, but I have read 'A caravan of dreams' and was under the impression Wanda organised some all female climbs of 8000m peaks. Can't remember if they were alpine style or not.
List of peaks here: http://www.jerberyd.com/climbing/climbers/wanda/

1989, Gasherbrum II, Wanda Rutkiewicz and Rhona Lampard topped out from a team comprising also of Brede Arkless, Gerry Westrupp, Kathy Bainbridge, Becky Thorp and Sally Churcher. No oxygen and but others on the mountain plus ropes etc. so not exactly sure how strictly alpine style.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Thanks all will pass it on