UKC

routes in gogarth not requiring an abseil?

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 jussy 23 Sep 2008
hi,
i am going to be in gogarth on friday but only have a couple of hours so was wondering are there any crags / routes which you can just walk to the base? any grades from HS to E2 would be good.
thanks!
 Dom Whillans 23 Sep 2008
In reply to jussy:
everything on main cliff or the upper tier is abseil free...
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Sep 2008
In reply to jussy:

The Upper Tier plus the centre and right side of the Main Cliff. And Holyhead Mountain of course - which isn't Gogarth!


Chris
 Jamie B 23 Sep 2008
In reply to Dom Whillans:

However some of the approaches stretch the definition of "walk" somewhat....
 craig h 23 Sep 2008
In reply to jussy:

There is also Rhoscolyn, which is in the Gogarth guide.
OP jussy 23 Sep 2008
In reply to jussy: Thanks. Looking forward to it!
 Andy Hardy 23 Sep 2008
In reply to jussy:
> hi,
> i am going to be in gogarth on friday but only have a couple of hours so was wondering are there any crags / routes which you can just walk to the base? any grades from HS to E2 would be good.
> thanks!

Are you planing to buy a guide before you go, or are you taking a blackberry?
OP jussy 23 Sep 2008
i think i have one of the n wales guidebooks somewehere, with gogarth select routes in it. just need to find it.
 Rory Shaw 23 Sep 2008
In reply to jussy: Castell Helen is a fantastic crag - it is an abseil but an easy one - much quicke than getting down to main cliff. Just bail down a 60m then choose your route. At E2 you must do true moments/freebird... one of the best at gogarth if not the world!
 GrahamD 24 Sep 2008
In reply to jussy:

If you only have a couple of hours, you might be better sticking to the shorter Holyhead mountain routes. You would need to be bloody efficient to manage anything else, even single pitch routes (the Strand e.g.)on the upper tier.

Depending on the sort of climbing you like, King Bee crack is a good honest HVS struggle or there is a *** E1 (who's name escapes me) which is pretty amenable steep slab climbing - both on Holyhead mountain.

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