/ NEWS: Kitty Wallace Becomes Youngest Female Brit To Climb 8a

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Michael Ryan - on 04 Oct 2008
On the 23rd September, 14 year-old Kitty Wallace from London became the youngest female British climber to redpoint a confirmed 8a sport route with an ascent of Daniboy and on the same day achieved a 7b+ and 7c onsight.

Martin Watson is believed to be the youngest British climber to redpoint F8a+ with his ascent of Grooved Arete at Kilnsey, aged 14.

The hardest redpoint from a British female junior prior to this was Leah Crane's ascent of O...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2008#n45356

[This post has been edited by UKC staff]
Natty B - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Awesome Kitty! :D Fantastic effort!
See you soon! :)
Natalie
john howard 1 - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Awesome, well done
Adam Lincoln - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Effort!
James Oswald - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Out of curiosity how old was Ondra when he climbed his first 8a?
Dominion - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Wow!

The ascents were all the more impressive considering that Kitty can count her total number of days on rock prior to the Kalymnos trip on both hands!

So, she's an indoor climber, that has moved outdoors?

That puts paid to all those snobs who say that indoor climbing is just for training and you don't learn anything from it...

john howard 1 - on 04 Oct 2008

>
> The ascents were all the more impressive considering that Kitty can count her total number of days on rock prior to the Kalymnos trip on both hands!
>


Wow, I hadn't seen that, that's just so inspirational it's almost depressing.Well done again
James Oswald - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
And that's very impressive.
Rob15 - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: wow, amazing, congratulations
dread-i - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Good effort.

brian cropper - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Dominion: you learn to clip bolts
Niall - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to john howard 1:
>
> [...]
>
>
> Wow, I hadn't seen that, that's just so inspirational it's almost depressing.Well done again

Very depressing for this tired 35yr old.

Well done young'un :-)
Adam Lincoln - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

This used to be 8a+ also.
Dominion - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to brian a:

> you learn to clip bolts

And do moves, and the body position required to do some moves, and how you much can rely on friction in certain positions, and what the limits of that friction is, and what your reach is, what your hand-strength is, how much pressure you can put on an tiny hold, or side-pull, or crimp.


I could go on, but I haven't progressed as far as Kitty has. So I have far more to learn.

But I know there is more to learn.

Wheras as you seem to have your mind closed.
Michael Ryan - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> This used to be 8a+ also.

Yes and also at 8a.nu there is a consensus that this route is 8a.

Keeg - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Brilliant, well done.
J0 - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Nuts! Well done Kitty!!!
Michael Ryan - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Jo Horne:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Nuts! Well done Kitty!!!

One for you Jo. Get training.

David Rose - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Great achievement. But why wasn't she at school on 23 September?
Niall - on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to davidoldfart:

Nice one Grandad :-)
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jenn on 04 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

What an amazing achievement - well done Kitty!
J.Wells - on 05 Oct 2008
In reply to davidoldfart:

I know! If I'd ever tried to get a break from school to go climbing...
None the less, massive achievment there, and its very comforting to know that there is still hope if you spend all your time indoors.
StewWatson on 05 Oct 2008 - mynet-191-173.mynet.at
Think she's the youngest British female to climb 8a, but not the youngest brit to climb 8a.
ksjs - on 05 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: as we're talking records here id strongly query Beginning at the End at 7c.

regardless, very impressive stuff and a very bright future...
johncoxmysteriously - on 06 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

If this is the girl I think it is I'm not surprised; I saw her at a bouldering competition last year and it was obvious she had the talent and attitude to be pretty good.

jcm
Nic on 06 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

> Kitty can count her total number of days on rock prior to the Kalymnos trip on both hands!


I vouchsafe from this that the young lady has done very little on the Carboniferous coarse-grained sandstone of the Peak District?
teddy - on 06 Oct 2008
Martin Watson redpointed Grooved Arete, an 8a+ at Kilnsey aged 14 in 2005:

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=662

I don't know if he was younger or older than Kitty.

mr_orange on 06 Oct 2008 - 149.254.200.236 whois?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I was lucky enough to be there and it was truly amazing to watch, she really did make it look easy....which of course it certainly isn't.
Morgan Woods - on 06 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Sterling effort from Kitty and i look forward to hearing about her furute achievements.

I think praise is also in order for Neil who has taken the time to help develop younger talent.
Adam Lincoln - on 06 Oct 2008
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> I think praise is also in order for Neil who has taken the time to help develop younger talent.

The westway on a whole has a very good youth climbing programme. I think this has helped a lot. Certainly in the past with Tyler.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: News item and thread amended and Martin Watson's outstanding effort on Grooved Arete mentioned.

Thanks everyone, and good effort to both of them!

Jack
Matilda M on 08 Oct 2008 - 79-69-56-238.dynamic.dsl.as9105.com
My best friend a champion? cool!
love you kitty!
matilda
xxx
ps: very first climbing buddy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
well done on the routes! :]

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