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John Dunne - new Q+A thread here

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Because of fun in the software (plus you should not try to start threads in all caps) can we regather here, please?

OK. My question to JD: what's the best climb someone else did that you wish you had?

Everyone else pile in with Qs here too..

Charles
brendonTendon 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:

John,

I met someone in a club in Leeds called Nadine who claimed that whenever you came round to her house you emptied her fridge!

Is this true or a preposterous lie?
the cumbrian 24 Jul 2001
re: Digital Crack.
Flashed or redpointed? Either way, good effort,but I'd like to know the details.
 Jon Read 24 Jul 2001
Is the lemon incident with Rimmer true?
Is that the same party as Phil K's on about?
Mark Tolver 24 Jul 2001
Okay - which routes would you like to repeat? What about Sharma's new Biographie extension?
Mr Blobby 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Jon Read:

Are you gay

?
brendonTendon 24 Jul 2001
to John Dunne:

Ok, I'm away home but one last one:

Just who are the "evil clones" in your game, or are you not prepared to say?

Mr Blobby 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mr Blobby:

Whoops that was aimed at Mr Dunne.

South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
John Dunne:

What route would you say epitomises your climbing career so far?

And what did you think of Wizard Ridge?
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
John Dunne:

So, Dartmoor bouldering. Do you enjoy it or do you find it as painful as the rest of us?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: re: My question to JD: what's the best climb someone else did that you wish you had?

- probably Reservoir Dogs at Widdop.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Jon Read: re: Is the lemon incident with Rimmer true?

i can neither confirm or deny it
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mark Tolver: re:which routes would you like to repeat? What about Sharma's new Biographie extension?

yeah i'd like to try it.
DaveR 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:
How did Dave Birkett take to having "the hardest route in the lakes" tag stripped?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mr Blobby: re: Are you gay ?


i think you've got the wrong JD
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to brendonTendon: re: Just who are the "evil clones" in your game, or are you not prepared to say?

- moffatt, moon, dawes, malcom smith and myself
m@ 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

john,

have you moved to the warrington area yet? still waiting to see you back down and fired up at broughton for some proper cellar sessions,

cheers

matt (from bolton)
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: re: What route would you say epitomises your climbing career so far?


New Statesman.

re:And what did you think of Wizard Ridge?

it will be impressive when it finally gets done.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: re: So, Dartmoor bouldering. Do you enjoy it or do you find it as painful as the rest of us?

Bonehill Rocks is a fine venue.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to DaveR: re: How did Dave Birkett take to having "the hardest route in the lakes" tag stripped?

i dont know you'll have to ask him yourself.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to m@: re: have you moved to the warrington area yet? still waiting to see you back down and fired up at broughton for some proper cellar sessions

- i'll keep you posted matt.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
some answers from the end of the other thread:

in reply to brendon tendon:


re: "I met someone in a club in Leeds called Nadine who claimed that whenever you came round to her house you emptied her fridge!

Is this true or a preposterous lie?"

is that french nadine?


In reply to the cumbrian: re: Digital Crack. Aye, thought so. So did you flash it or redpoint it?

- i tried to redpoint it and took a rest on the final bolt due to a badly split finger.


In reply to Mark Tolver: re: What're your favourite crags, both home and abroad?

-Ilkley and Joshua Tree.


re: How much climbing do you do a week?

- not enough. about 4 times a week.


re: How much Guiness do you have to drink to reach "world class" form?

- vast amounts


in reply to almost sane re:

John, in this forum Jude has made many claims to being a good cook.
John, you are now in a position to validate these claims.
Is it true?

Can Jude really cook, or does she just open a tin?

- the meal was fantastic although i think i saw my mate the chef from The Sweet Centre making off over the garden wall


Paul Mitchell 24 Jul 2001
If you were going to be re-incarnated as a known climber apart from yourself, who would it be and why?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Paul Mitchell:

Johnny Dawes because i've always fancied being about 6" shorter.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Jonno re: I have a question for you John: Do you think it's OK to indulge in petting on a first date ?
Oh,nearly forgot,the 'Slimfast' diet,is it all its cracked up to be ?
Cheers J

- definately petting on a first date in fact heavy petting's always nice.

i've tried the slimfast diet but the seafood diet is much more reliable, it's available in more retail outlets. i'm particularly fond of Ben and Jerry's "Chunky Monkey" ice-cream, i think this will become the choice of champions.
jonathan T 24 Jul 2001
do you want to slim down and get on Akira?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to jonathan T: re :do you want to slim down and get on Akira?

- i was fully psyched to do Akira earlier today and my diet was going really well until i went round to jude's to do rocktalk and now it's gone to rack and ruin.
jonathan T 24 Jul 2001
In reply to John Dunne. that's a cop out. wimp
Stu 24 Jul 2001
In reply to jonathan T: What is Arron like? do you see many new routes of the future up there?
Stu
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Stu: re: "What is Arron like? do you see many new routes of the future up there?"


Arran's probably wet but there's new routes to be done on just about every crag.

and by the way well done to Dave McCloud for repeating my new route on The Bastion, shame you didnt get the chance to do the first pitch.
Simon Cox 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

So what did you get for afters at Jude's?
 Jamie B 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Is a pegged E10 in the Lakes as laudable as a pegless E10 on Grit?

What is THE last great problem?

Why has nobody found an E9 in Scotland despite the abundance of rock?

Respect,

JAMIE B.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Simon Cox: re: So what did you get for afters at Jude's?

i had a scoop of everything in the freezer
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Jamie B: re:Is a pegged E10 in the Lakes as laudable as a pegless E10 on Grit?


- E10's E10

re: What is THE last great problem?


- the Nose free on Strone Ulladale

re:Why has nobody found an E9 in Scotland despite the abundance of rock?

- it's probably the midges.

Simon Cox 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Other than ice cream what most impresses you most about Ben and Jerry?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
in reply to Mick Ryan re: John have you actually done Astroman in Yosemite Valley are did you just abseil down and position yourself for the photographs?


-absolutely right Mick i abseiled down on my 1300 foot rope, took a deep breath and slithered down the Harding Slot and hung on the third pitch for pitches. ps by the way i had my special abseiling gloves on.

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
in reply to Enty re: Can you dish some dirt on Mick J from the late 80's?

- i could dish lots of dirt, i'll maybe tell you next time i see you.

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Simon Cox: re: Other than ice cream what most impresses you most about Ben and Jerry?

- Jerry's ability to look like a carbon copy of George Michael and Ben's number 7 crimp from his S7 range.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to FH re: I have a photo of myself on Tufted crack, in the bottom right hand corner is your self, did you delibratley pose on that photo so you could be seen with me?

- absolutely, yeah.
Simon Cox 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

I have to confess to listening to a little Wham this morning to try and inspire me to get up a training problem...

Do you ever put music on to psych yourself up? if so what?

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Dave Collier re: I look up at "New Statesman" from my garden with a bottle of beer in one hand and think "How did he do that?". My question is, "Just how did you do that? Bloody awesome if you ask me. And weren't you scared? I just shit my pants looking at it especially when it gets all dark and moody up on t'Moor.

- yes it was scary, we didnt have bouldering mats back in those days.
was that you i met last night at Caley?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to almost sane re: 1> Do you still enjoy climbing?
2> Does the fact that you now climb at the behest of others reduce the pleasure you get from climbing?
3> What (apart from climbing) do you do to unwind? What do you do for fun?
4> Most important this - what is Jude like in the flesh (so to speak)? I have never met her. Does she actually exist or is she merely a marketing construct? Is Jude in fact the Lara Croft of climbing?

1) yeah
2) yeah from time to time without a doubt
3) use your imagination
4) jude will be the next lara croft
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:You've always been dogged by controversy. You've got the contacts, why don't you make sure there is someone there to take pics on first ascents? That would surely silence the critics and give you an easier life.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Simon Cox: re: Do you ever put music on to psych yourself up? if so what?

-no but apparently Jerry's climbing is strongly influenced by Wham's first album.
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:Also, these pics of Phil Kellys, what is it about them that would make Lovatt so keen not to see them published?
Phil Kelly 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az: I think it really is about time they saw the light of day. Wouldn't you agree John?

Hey, hold on, one of em's me wife!
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Phil Kelly: I'm interested in the possible Lovatt embarrassment factor here, rather than the JD one...
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az: re: You've always been dogged by controversy. You've got the contacts, why don't you make sure there is someone there to take pics on first ascents? That would surely silence the critics and give you an easier life.

- well Az if you fancy the job give me a bell, just to give you an idea of what's involved imagine 10 seperate trips to the summit of Great Gable and the frustration of Lakes weather, most photographers won't even entertain this fact and merely want to cover the route when it's finished. the magazines now demand such a high quality image that first ascent shots are often not acceptable, which i think is b*ll*cks.

ps if the doubters want some real evidence they could club together and buy me a Sony Digital Camera and i'll guarantee to download the footage directly onto my website.

Tom 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Hmmm. Not what I heard. Dave shunted the top two pitches, the final one having not being cleaned, apparently, and lead it straight off, onsighting the first pitch. Your rucksack was still at the top, indicating, perhaps, that you may have in fact repeated his route. All sounds very exciting.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az: re: Also, these pics of Phil Kellys, what is it about them that would make Lovatt so keen not to see them published?

- they're actually pictures of Mick and myself dressed in women's clothing with Mick donning crutchless underwear. Does this mean the perfect man becomes the not so perfect woman?

Simon Cox 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Moving swiftly on from Wham... who do u rate from France? or favorite french places for that matter?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Tom: re: Hmmm. Not what I heard. Dave shunted the top two pitches, the final one having not being cleaned, apparently, and lead it straight off, onsighting the first pitch. Your rucksack was still at the top, indicating, perhaps, that you may have in fact repeated his route. All sounds very exciting.

- i spent 3 hours cleaning the top two pitches removing loose rock and heather and climbed the route on the 21st June, no-one had ever climbed on this piece of rock before but i suspect he's done a different top pitch somewhere to the right of the tidemark.

ps i hope the rucksack's still there or is it?
Goupie 24 Jul 2001
Have you repeated any o dave buchanan's problems in Yorkshire I heard he's really strong, and handsome.
Phil Kelly 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: Huh, funny - Mick doesn't appear on them at all. There's just Nikki, Ann, and that ever-so-young John Dunne in the middle.

Dunno why you thought mick was on them....

Always said I'd keep em just in case you ever got famous. Bit like early photos of Smylie in her porn days! (Allegedly)

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Simon Cox: re: Moving swiftly on from Wham... who do u rate from France? or favorite french places for that matter?

- ive always rated the Le Menestrel brothers and the Verdon's pretty cool.
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:Excellent! Phil, I NEED these pics.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Goupie: re: Have you repeated any o dave buchanan's problems in Yorkshire I heard he's really strong, and handsome

- hi dave, hope you're not working too hard.
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Phil Kellyamm! Just read your post.
Goupie 24 Jul 2001
In reply to John,

Hi john, no not working too hard. For all out there, my company designed the site, so hello all.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Phil Kelly: re: "Huh, funny - Mick doesn't appear on them at all. There's just Nikki, Ann, and that ever-so-young John Dunne in the middle.

Dunno why you thought mick was on them....

Always said I'd keep em just in case you ever got famous. Bit like early photos of Smylie in her porn days! (Allegedly) "




- i tell you what Phil, we'll sell them to News Of The World and split the profit, how's that?
Goupie 24 Jul 2001
I mean JD's new site, not this one!
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
To John Dunne:

John, I had a look at your web site the other day, must have cost a bit

Pretty nice flash build, bet I could have done it for cheaper

Anyway - it mentions lectures and masterclasses

What is going to be the format of these masterclasses, ball park time when they will take place and what areas you are going to cover??

Simon Cox 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Do u ever struggle with getting belayers for your bold routes with big fall potential? Aledgedly you aren't the lightest of guys and some of the falls from your scary routes could give your belayers quite a shock!

Also when bouldering do you ever check to make sure your spotters aren't making an exit in case you exlopde backwards on to them??

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re:What is going to be the format of these masterclasses, ball park time when they will take place and what areas you are going to cover??


- Details will be posted within the next month. Most of the masterclasses will be weekend two day courses with food / accomodation and run in conjunction with Plas Y Brenin.
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: Ok I'll keep a look out for them

Ever been nearly pipped to the post in terms of finishing a project

I heard quite a while back Robin Barker was sussing out a route you had been working either at Gorple or Widdop - or is this just folklore??
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
JOHN DUNNE: I thought there would be more controversial questions. Come on guys.
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:These days you seem to be about more balls than brawn. Have you finished with hard sport routes? There's so many lines still to be done at Malham.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re: Ever been nearly pipped to the post in terms of finishing a project

I heard quite a while back Robin Barker was sussing out a route you had been working either at Gorple or Widdop - or is this just folklore??


- I was pipped to the post with Reservoir Dogs at Widdop. Some you win some you lose.
Peter 24 Jul 2001
Have you ever climbed with Mr Dawes? And do I remember you, Moon and Moffat cropping up on Pebble Mill at One many years ago?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az: re: These days you seem to be about more balls than brawn. Have you finished with hard sport routes? There's so many lines still to be done at Malham.


- Next year I hope to return to sport climbing and might work on one of the big Malham projects. Perhaps the roof above Overnight Sensation.
Simon Cox 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

OK a tinse more controversial...

I think when Johnny Dawes was interviewed here, he mentioned that he had failed on an E5 in the SW once - his excuse was that he was one and a half stone overweight! Whats the easiest route you have failed on? and how much overweight were you at the time?
 Mattyk 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: Even though you climb E10, do you still like getting up those Vs's?
almost sane 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:
Controversial question:

Climbers cause a lot of pollution induldging in their "hobby." Pollution from driving to and from the crag. Pollution in the construction and wearing out of the car. Pollution from all the fancy gear that they don't really need.

How do you justify this damage to our planet merely to scratch your itch to climb?

PS I ask as one of the guilty ones.
Phil Kelly 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Simon Cox: and Ryan once told me that you were driving thru' Leeds and spotted a dead alsation outside a curry house.

I think the story went that you picked it up, burst through the door, threw it in and shoutes "and that's the last one you get until you've paid yer bill"

Was Micky telling porkies?
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:More controversial, Hmmm...
In his recent interview Dawes stated that he didn't believe you had done Parthian shot. What's your reply?
The day you did the photo shoot on Total Eclipse you failed to do Obsession cleanly (a route you should be able to do in your sleep) why was that?
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to all: Anyone got an update on how Neil Bentley is doing??
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Peter: re: Have you ever climbed with Mr Dawes? And do I remember you, Moon and Moffat cropping up on Pebble Mill at One many years ago?



- I once seconded Johnny on a new route at Bamford called the Egg E4 6a. Strangely in the guide book it is as reported Johnny Dawes solo. Shame he left the belayer out. Does this class as lying about a first ascent?

Hope to see my name alongside Johnny's in the new Stanage guide.


And you are absolutely right about the Pebble Mill slot.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Simon Cox: re: OK a tinse more controversial...

I think when Johnny Dawes was interviewed here, he mentioned that he had failed on an E5 in the SW once - his excuse was that he was one and a half stone overweight! Whats the easiest route you have failed on? and how much overweight were you at the time?

- I've failed on a lot of routes far easier than E5. Fortunately for me it had nothing to do with being overweight.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mattyk: re: Even though you climb E10, do you still like getting up those Vs's?

- Absolutely, did Meshack at the weekend. Superb.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Phil Kelly: re: and Ryan once told me that you were driving thru' Leeds and spotted a dead alsation outside a curry house.

I think the story went that you picked it up, burst through the door, threw it in and shoutes "and that's the last one you get until you've paid yer bill"

Was Micky telling porkies?

- It's true but it was a guy called Tony Preston.
Phil Kelly 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: Thanks for clearing that one up - Tony's a great guy and that sounds just like him!
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az: re: More controversial, Hmmm...
In his recent interview Dawes stated that he didn't believe you had done Parthian shot. What's your reply?
The day you did the photo shoot on Total Eclipse you failed to do Obsession cleanly (a route you should be able to do in your sleep) why was that?

- Very perceptive Az, we only wanted a few photos and just aided up Obsession. If you've done Obsession as many times as i have you'd probably aid up it as well. It's a good E4 6b using the bolts to rest on.
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD:

In a fit of madness what is the craziest thing you have ever done - be it anger or just feeling a little loose in the head department one day

And it doesnt have to be related to climbing
Simon Cox 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

The kids are becoming unmanageable... thanks for your time...

All the best with Elder Crack Arete, JCT can you ask Slackjaw to fund a web-cam so we can all watch from the office.

Thanks again,
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re: In a fit of madness what is the craziest thing you have ever done - be it anger or just feeling a little loose in the head department one day

And it doesnt have to be related to climbing


- If I told you I'd have to kill you.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Simon Cox: re: "All the best with Elder Crack Arete, JCT can you ask Slackjaw to fund a web-cam so we can all watch from the office"

i'd like the expensive new Sony digital if that's possible, with spare batteries.
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: So it is true you were a crack commando and this is where you picked up your cat like prowess on rock

Where do I join??
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re: So it is true you were a crack commando and this is where you picked up your cat like prowess on rock

Where do I join??

- Mike tell me more....
Mr Blobby 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Have you led Parthian Shot?

Who belayed you?

Who else witnessed it?

Mr Blobby
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: If you have not become a professional climber - what profession would you have gone in to?

Also what would you consider to be the best method of building brute strength??
Oliver 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Hi John.

People are often making controversial comments regarding yourself. Care to make any regarding people out there ?

Ol
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mr Blobby: re: Have you led Parthian Shot?

Who belayed you?

Who else witnessed it?

Mr Blobby



- yes.

andrew jack belayed.

the late richard wilson witnessed it, so did daniel house and about 500 sheep. thank god there wasn't an outbreak of foot and mouth otherwise i wouldnt have as many witnesses.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re|: "If you have not become a professional climber - what profession would you have gone in to?

Also what would you consider to be the best method of building brute strength??"

- i would have gone into a profession that paid some decent money.


-i dont want to give all my secrets away.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Oliver: re: "Hi John. People are often making controversial comments regarding yourself. Care to make any regarding people out there ?"


-i've been waiting over a decade for johnny dawes to repeat some of my routes. is it going to happen? or is he a has been?
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: I'll tell you the source of the crack commando story in return for some training tips - you first though - go on you know curiousity killed the cat, or was it the aforementioned alsation?

I defo think a career as a secretary wouldnt have been for you, you cant type quick enough
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re: "I'll tell you the source of the crack commando story in return for some training tips - you first though - go on you know curiousity killed the cat, or was it the aforementioned alsation?"

tell me the story first.
Phil Kelly 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: which routes would you most like to see Johnny repeat?
jude calvert-toulmin 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: im doing the typing.
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: Is it true that you've got the crucial pebble off Reservoir dogs, and if so have you any plans to replace it?
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: Is he slurring his words already???
jude calvert-toulmin 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Phil Kelly: re: which routes would you most like to see Johnny repeat?

- breathless for starters. it'd be good for him to have a taste of how standards have moved on since the late eighties.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: : re: Is he slurring his words already???

i dont kn-kn-know
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Just got back from Bonehill Rocks and I've got a hole in my finger (bloody granite...). What's the best way of healing small finger wounds (apart from time)?

And do you think that the other JD will ever do Wizard Ridge (on lead/solo or without falling on top-rope)?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az: re: Is it true that you've got the crucial pebble off Reservoir dogs, and if so have you any plans to replace it?


- yes ive got the pebble but it's up to robin to replace it, i will let him have it for a nominal fee.
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: Lets be honest, Johnny Dawes isnt going do this route for quite a while - he needs to work on his finger nail strength for a while

What about pipping him to the post on this route??

How many people does your company employ??
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: re: Just got back from Bonehill Rocks and I've got a hole in my finger (bloody granite...). What's the best way of healing small finger wounds (apart from time)?

And do you think that the other JD will ever do Wizard Ridge (on lead/solo or without falling on top-rope)?

- i don't think he'll ever do it but i'll be the first to congratulate him if he does.
Paul Mitchell 24 Jul 2001
I presume grades are important to you, if so why?
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Are you still pissed off with Pete Oxley for bolting what later became 'The Big Issue'?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Paul Mitchell: grades are not important to me, it's the route that matters, i graded hxs in 1989, not E9/E10. like the new route i've just done on Arran, it's a stunning route, does the grade really matter? ive graded that hxs as well. ive given routes E10 which is a cutting edge grade because that's what i really believe they are until somebody proves me wrong.
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: Super glue and finger tape, won't heal it but it will let you carry on climbing.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re: What about pipping him to the post on this route??

i dont think i'll ever do this route either.

and which company are you referring to?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: re: Are you still pissed off with Pete Oxley for bolting what later became 'The Big Issue'?


- not at all. the matter's now closed.
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az:

Ow. Tried Micropore, but that further reduced my puny attempts to move in the vertical direction. Considering getting a vat of 5:10 rubber...
Paul Mitchell 24 Jul 2001
Which route when you wont be able to do it, will tell you that it's time to retire?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Paul Mitchell: re: Which route when you wont be able to do it, will tell you that it's time to retire?

- im sure there's a few routes i cant do now, but i dont think i'll ever retire, i'll just return to being a punter again.
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: If you had a time transporter what era would you like to go back / forward to, and why??

I was thinking of ninth life??

But have you got any jobs going at any of them??
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Do you feel that more credit should be given for your ascents such as 'The Divided Years' (the first E10?), especially considering the acclaim given to JD's ascent of the 'Indian Face' (the first E9)?
jude calvert-toulmin 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: er lads, stop chuntering, we're in the middle of a live internet interview here! you're in the prescence of a legend. plus dunney's round here for tea too so think of some more interesting questions
Paul 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: Hi John

I've got the big issue and I think its pretty good, are you gonna make another vid?

And are you gonna do more leading on it instead of top roping?

And will it have more climbing instead of bitchy debates?

Paul
almost sane 24 Jul 2001
In reply to John Dunne:

What sort of climbing do you enjoy most?

And what makes a climb special?

For me, I enjoy mountaineering most.
And what makes a climb special are the company I am with, the setting, the quality of the climb, and the size of the achievement.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re: "If you had a time transporter what era would you like to go back / forward to, and why??

I was thinking of ninth life??

But have you got any jobs going at any of them??"

- i'd love to go back to the early eighties and get into a pair of Troll Candy Stripes.

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: re: Do you feel that more credit should be given for your ascents such as 'The Divided Years' (the first E10?), especially considering the acclaim given to JD's ascent of the 'Indian Face' (the first E9)?


-it's not for me to say really.
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: While I'm waiting for a job offer I'll ask my next question

Do you feel that you havent received much as much praise/ attention from the climbing world because you have operated outside the gliterrati - that is the Sheffield scence

Did you deliberately set out in the first place, in a sort of I'll show them way or did you really just find that cirucmstance played a major role?

dan evans 24 Jul 2001
hello

dear john

do you think climbing is art.
and would you be intrested in doing an interview for a french magazine "GRIMPER"
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001

in reply to Paul re:-I've got the big issue and I think its pretty good, are you gonna make another vid?

And are you gonna do more leading on it instead of top roping?

And will it have more climbing instead of bitchy debates?



-im currently working on another video project "Fat To Fit In Ten Weeks" with live webcams of the kitchen.
Az 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: Do you feel under pressure from sponsors to do new routes? What about repeating other peoples routes (Northern lights, Indian face, evolution, equilibrium)?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to almost sane: re:What sort of climbing do you enjoy most?

And what makes a climb special?

For me, I enjoy mountaineering most.
And what makes a climb special are the company I am with, the setting, the quality of the climb, and the size of the achievement.


- serious technical climbing.

- the line and aspect.

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to dan evans: re: do you think climbing is art.
and would you be intrested in doing an interview for a french magazine "GRIMPER"

- i'll definately do an interview. send me an email.

- art, science? it's a bit of both.


almost sane 24 Jul 2001
In reply to John Dunne:
I am just heading for bed now, so I was wondering:


how do you manage to sleep on expeditions? Any problems?

Goodnight, and thanks for coming on?
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Mike H: re: Do you feel that you havent received much as much praise/ attention from the climbing world because you have operated outside the gliterrati - that is the Sheffield scence

Did you deliberately set out in the first place, in a sort of I'll show them way or did you really just find that cirucmstance played a major role?



- i didnt plan it this way its just how its panned out. i suppose i never pandered to the rockstars of the early 80s. i remember andy pollitt and paul craven saying "you'll never climb anything harder than E5"
dan evans 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: hello again

do you ever go to fontainbleau to climb.

i will email you soon then thanks

hi to jude. fingers tired yet
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to almost sane: re: how do you manage to sleep on expeditions? Any problems?

ive only been on one. it depends on how many beers ive had.

Goodnight and God Bless.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to dan evans: re:

do you ever go to fontainbleau to climb.

i will email you soon then thanks

hi to jude. fingers tired yet


- yes, ive not been for a couple of years.

(this is jude now - hi dan. nope, not tired, we're having a right laugh, the conversation going on backstage is riveting
dan evans 24 Jul 2001
oh and did you ever read the fred rouhling interview where i compared you with him. should i have done, if not why not. i think you have both been picked on quite a bit.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Az: re: Do you feel under pressure from sponsors to do new routes? What about repeating other peoples routes (Northern lights, Indian face, evolution, equilibrium)?

- occasionally there's some pressure but ive built a long-term relationship with my sponsors and they're happy to let me get on and climb and they know that they get some return at the end of the day.

id love to repeat the routes above, especially equilibrium.
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Do you reckon that you'll ever do the Nose on Strone? And how will you keep the midges at bay?

What's you favourite problem at Font?

Cheers
Mike H 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JD: Yet I'm going to fall in as well, got to fly to the Germany on business tommorow

Top stuff with answering everyones questions, so honestly who knows lets wait for next months OTE and see if you've stirred some decent debates

Keep up the good work, and dont forget even if you need a tea boy I'm your man (even come with 3 years of a computing degree under my belt)

Laterz
Marc C. 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:
To Jude's kids: What do you think about your Mum having all these strange men round every week ?
To Jude: Ask John for the one magic training tip (so far the most he's given away is listening to Wham!)
To John: What do you think about women's climbing ? (careful how you answer with Jude there!)
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to dan evans: re: oh and did you ever read the fred rouhling interview where i compared you with him. should i have done, if not why not. i think you have both been picked on quite a bit.

yes, i read the piece Dan and thought it was very good, he must be a good climber if Jibe rates him so highly.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Marc C.: re: "To Jude's kids: What do you think about your Mum having all these strange men round every week ?
To Jude: Ask John for the one magic training tip (so far the most he's given away is listening to Wham!)
To John: What do you think about women's climbing ? (careful how you answer with Jude there!) "

jude here: hi Marc! at last you're here! my kids love having all these people round here, they get to thrash them at board games and get rides in their fast sports cars and i make loads of nice ice cream when we have visitors

john again:

- the best training tip ive ever heard is "just dont let go"

- re women's climbing, it's good to see more women climbing at a higher level. i love the shot of lucy creamer top-roping end of the affair, it'd be good to see her do it in the autumn.
GFoz 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:

Requiem - one of THE great lines in Scotland, which you got the first repeat on (nuff respect)

1. What do you think of it in the context of the development of British climbing given it was done as far back as '83

2. Could someone flash it ??

Ta

Foz
Rocktart 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:
You've pushed the boat out on lead several times.
What's been your scariest experience on lead, and your biggest fall (if they're not the same!).

BTW, is it true that you did a BIG rope jump off Malham after a fresh new route (going back in time I think)
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: re: Do you reckon that you'll ever do the Nose on Strone? And how will you keep the midges at bay?

What's you favourite problem at Font?


- You'll have to wait and see.

Font - Travail of Hercules


dan evans 24 Jul 2001
someone asked about akira a while back, have you wandered what it's like and thought about going to have a look or have you dissmissed for some reason

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to GFoz: re: Requiem - one of THE great lines in Scotland, which you got the first repeat on (nuff respect)

1. What do you think of it in the context of the development of British climbing given it was done as far back as '83

2. Could someone flash it ??

Ta

Foz


- It was an impressive effort for 83. I reckon Vickers or McClure could flash it.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Rocktart: re: You've pushed the boat out on lead several times.
What's been your scariest experience on lead, and your biggest fall (if they're not the same!).

BTW, is it true that you did a BIG rope jump off Malham after a fresh new route (going back in time I think)

- the top move of Countdown To Disaster and a 100ft fall of the groove at Malham

Yes it's true of the Well Dunne Finish.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to dan evans: re: someone asked about akira a while back, have you wandered what it's like and thought about going to have a look or have you dissmissed for some reason


- Steve McClure and myself have loosely talked about going over and trying it.
Rocktart 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:
You mentioned earlier that it would be good for some of your routes to get repeats from the other 80s hero's.
Why do you think Dawes et al haven't repeated more of your routes?
dan evans 24 Jul 2001
what do you think of jazz music.

JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Rocktart: re: You mentioned earlier that it would be good for some of your routes to get repeats from the other 80s hero's.
Why do you think Dawes et al haven't repeated more of your routes?


- Why do you think?
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

Do you doubt the grade of Akira, considering the huge increase in difficulty over existing climbs that this implies?

And after Ben Bransby's impressive flash of Carmen Picasso do you believe that other E8s of yours (or others) could be dealt with in the same fashion soon?
Paul 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:

What is it with you and Johnny ?

If you met in a pub would you talk to each other and when did it all start?

Paul
Rocktart 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:
'Why do you think Dawes et al haven't repeated more of your routes?
- Why do you think'

Ok, what's your record like on repeating 'their' routes?
Have you been put off from trying other people's big leads?
dan evans 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: you should see the moves on freds 9a's even i was amazed. i nearly dropped my camera.
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: re: Do you doubt the grade of Akira, considering the huge increase in difficulty over existing climbs that this implies?

And after Ben Bransby's impressive flash of Carmen Picasso do you believe that other E8s of yours (or others) could be dealt with in the same fashion soon?

- Akira - no doubt

Absolutely, things move on and the future of climbing is better ascents of established routes in better style.
Paul 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:
Hey John and Jude what r u 2 up to ......answer my question, hehe
JOHN DUNNE 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Paul: re: What is it with you and Johnny ?

If you met in a pub would you talk to each other and when did it all start?

- regardless of some of the comments tonight, especially about johnny i have every respect for some of his climbs and only wish he could accept that things like parthion actually have been climbed and things in life move on but it doesnt take away from the fact that people like dawes and generations before him have left legendary routes for future generations to enjoy.

- thanks for everyone for posting, i hope to do it again soon, and please visit my new website.
South Devon Rock Hugger 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE:

One last question...

Have you ever tried mixed climbing? And would you want to do more/any?

I read somewhere that you did a one-arm chin-up first time you tried. Is this true, and how much do you think power contributes to your climbing, compared to technique, finger strength etc.?

(Oops, bugger, more than one question...)

Thanks a lot! Goodnight.
jude calvert-toulmin 24 Jul 2001
In reply to JOHN DUNNE: thanks for coming here John and thanks to everyone for contributing. it's been a gas night all xxx
Paul 24 Jul 2001
Cheers man GOODNIGHT!!!

Jude what did u cook?
BrianT 24 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:
Has he gone? Bugger!
Jonathan 25 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: He did mention that he did a one arm pullup first time, as well as his brother.
jude calvert-toulmin 25 Jul 2001
In reply to Paul: re: "Jude what did u cook?"

i made a chicken korma from a proper indian recipe, you know, with ground roasted coriander and cumin and all the right stuff, with basmati rice. then for afters i did a selection of home made ice creams - peach, strawberry, and also vodka sorbet.

In reply to Brian T: i wondered where you were, what a shame you missed it Bry. however he did answer your sweet and crisp questions. he knew you thought he'd say seabrooks

in reply to Jonathan: there's that other Jonathan isnt there Jonathan so last night i was posting your questions from Jonathan T.


anyway, besides another big thankyou to John for carrying on so long last night answering questions, i just want to say thanks to my hub, Martin Veale for doing all the clearing up; to our own Jonathan T from Saudi for taking over the typing whilst i had a break and for entertaining the kids; and to John, Mart, Mitch and Jonathan for all providing a really fascinating background conversation.
FH 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

Your life sounds like an episode of Cold Feet

jude calvert-toulmin 25 Jul 2001
In reply to FH: so what did everyone think of the interview then? i thought dunney was brilliant.
Stu 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: I agree, well dunne Jude!

Stu
 Adam Lincoln 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

So its a trip to Tesco's today to re-stock the fridge then is it
mark@apeindex.com 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: Good effort on sorting it out. I thought it was interesting. Who is next?
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

Yup, a terrific record. Now all we need is some carefully-chosen words about what was also going on in the background and we can turn it into a feature which folk can read any time...

That is a hint, btw.

Charles
 Jon Read 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Well done Jude. Who next eh? How about a slightly less youthful rockstar? Mr Allen perhaps?
almost sane 25 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor and JCT:

I enjoyed that interview. John D sounds like a really nice, fun guy. I did notice that he was giving away no free tips - so a businessman too.

Shame he blew your cover by mentioning the hired-in chef Jude
Chicken korma follwed by a variety of home-made ice creams does sound nice, though...
Universal Soldier 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
yeah I really enjoyed reading through it. Some great questions and answers.
He seemed more of a laugh than the other guy that was on, less pretentious ;~)

Well Done Jude!!


jude calvert-toulmin 25 Jul 2001
thanks stu, charles, mark and jon.

i want john allen to do this but it might take a bit of persuading. however he's never been averse to my charms before (joke!)

i'd like ron to do one but i'd have to ask him in person so he realises i dont bite.

so i think next up will be jezza, who i reckon will do it for the wheeze as he's always up for a good jape. and phil kelly just msmed me with the possibility of asking paul pritchard when he's over in november. im up for that, top bloke is paul. also after greenland i want lucy to do one, i think that would be great. what does everyone else think?

but for the time being im just relieved that yesterday went so well. john dunne is an absolutely top bloke, i warmed to him as soon as i opened the front door to him (never met him before) and the whole thing was so enjoyable.

backstage the conversation was riveting, and i take your hint charles, ive already had an idea for an article in this respect.plus john and i were talking about other ideas that could possibly happen in the future.

also im doing an interview and pictures with john which i am hoping OTE will want to publish. i think the readers of OTE would like that, non?


adam, i cooked enough to feed an army, im having chicken korma for lunch and tea till the end of the week! i wouldnt be surprised if dunney turns up unexpectedly telling me he forgot his doggy bag. (that alsation story was so funny. brilliant)
jude calvert-toulmin 25 Jul 2001
thankyou almost sane and universal soldier.

hey, this is the first day ive ever been on rocktalk when i suspect i wont get ripped to bits, anyway going to sit in the garden and write for a bit, i'll check in later, glad everyone enjoyed it. do any voyeurs want to take the plunge and say what they thought? hey, i wont even have a go at you for being anonymous im in such a good mood........!
Dennis 25 Jul 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:

As a matter of interest: who is John Dunne?

Dennis M.
 Jon Read 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Jezza?? Oozat?
jude calvert-toulmin 25 Jul 2001
In reply to Jon Read: (im still trying to get off the computer!) - by jezza, i mean jerry moffatt, also known as cookie dough (ben and jerry, cookie dough and vanilla pod, geddit?)
 Jon Read 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Bring 'em on! THAT could be very interesting.
almost sane 25 Jul 2001
In reply to Jude:
I would be really interested to hear from Paul Pritchard.

And I like the idea of Airlie, although I realise you might prefer to be ensconced with a hunky bloke {

By the way, I heard Paul Pritchard give a talk on his trip to Paine immediately after Chris Bonnington had given a talk about his trip to the same place many years earlier. They were both great speakers, both seemed really nice guys, both trips met with success, but very different styles of person and of trip.
FH 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

Why dont you try to get Sutty to do it. He's done tons in his life, knows loads of people, and tells a good yarn.
Come on he'd be realy good!

In fact do it live from Brimham, that would be a laugh. I can see it now BBQ set up, sutty sat on some mega boulder lap top in hand surrounded my a proper piss up of a party
wee Eck 25 Jul 2001
In reply to FH:
Now there's an idea, FH.

We could have a regular Q+A session with one of the rocktalk regulars.

Sutty would be a good choice. Al Evans, too, seems to have done a lot.

I think an Al Downie question session would be top value, too.
wee Eck 25 Jul 2001
In reply to wee Eck:
Oh dear, sorry about that.

I left the wrong name on by mistake.

Just used it for a bit of a laugh on the "Soapy" thread, didn't realise I still had it.

But I will keep my identity secret, so Anita doesn't know who wee Eck really was, har har har (its sad, the things that keep me amused)
FH 25 Jul 2001
In reply to wee Eck:

How about interviewing you and your alter egos?
South Devon Rock Hugger 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

Yeah, that was really interesting, thanks Jude (and John).

Any fingertip skin loss from typing too much?
jude calvert-toulmin 25 Jul 2001
In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger: not as much as from typing johnny's huge monologues! im just exhausted from the buzz of it really, but it was such good fun, john dunne is the man.

especially surreal having jonathan t from saudi here too - he's on the plane back to the desert now
 Vdiff Dave 25 Jul 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

Why don't you arrange the next online interview to take place in a theatre, you could sell tickets and make a fortune?

Well, maybe about £1

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