UKC

Hans Florine, 44, of Lafayette, California and Yuji Hirayama, 39, of Hidaka, Japan set a new speed record for climbing the 870m (2900') Nose route on El Cap yesterday with a time of 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds beating their own 2 hours, 43 minutes and 33 seconds set on July 2nd this year. (UKC...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2008#n45377

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

uji and partner started off at the base of El Capitan this morning at 10:20 am and topped out on the Nose route at 12:57:03 pm. It was crisp morning and there was a late fall feel in the air.

Fun numbers:

Today time to Sickle ledge: 18 minutes, July 2nd when we did the route in 2:43:33 it took 16:20 to get to sickle.
Today time to Dolt Tower: 46 minutes, July 2nd: 56 minutes.
Today time to Eagle Ledge: 1:04, July 2nd: 1:06
Today to camp 4: 1:28, July 2nd: 1:26
Today to top: 2:37:05, July 2nd: 2:43:33

Today we passed four parties along the route.

Hans

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Is it just me?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Did you remove the other thread from the guy who got the scoop? Why?

It's no doubt a good effort but I've not eaten chocolate since 1997 and I beat my record every day. High five! Mind you it probably explains why I'm so miserable.

Cheers, Karl

In reply to kajsurfer: yeah I seem to remember a guy posting the new record time late last night (way before climbing.com or yuji hirayama's own blog for that matter). Now that post seems to have disappeared...

In reply to kajsurfer:

I was working on the report last night. We have been following the attempts for the last week or so since Yuji arrived.

Good to have the full story with background (and on our popular News page), from various sources, usually from our affiliates Supertopo and Climbing magazine (of which I am a contributing editor).

Also better to have one thread.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

and not forgetting the fantastic Tom Evans!!!!! ( http://www.elcap-pics.com/ ).. who has provided us with the fantastic photos of yesterdays record.

In reply to Short&Savage: Yes, I read it about 2.00pm Oztime while munching on some Nacho cheese Shapes and Helga's Soy and Linseed sarnies. That would be 4.00am UK.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Looks like this thread's not exactly on fire so how much better than to leave the original scoop?

Who was the guy that revealed it first? Remind me please.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Any suitors around for breaking this record? The Hubers have already indicated they won't have another shot at it last time their record was broken by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine.

Dean Potter? Leo Houlding? Tommy Caldwell?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Sharma is out there too, wanting to onsight the nose free. He set off but think he turned back due to crowds.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

he fell off

In reply to Short&Savage:

Potter or Houlding with a parachute on their backs!!!!!!!

As you probably know Potter has already soloed the Nose.....12: 59

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4832527121139830698

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Florine soled it in 11 hours 41 minutes

How hard is the Nose in English money?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
How come this thread is listed with "16 of 15 replies"!. Right enough, that will change when i post this.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Yorkshire VDiff.

In reply to Owen W-G: C2. Or about E8 free I think.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Bloody hard with Johnny foreigner chomping at your heels all the way up. Bad manners, it is. Personally I'd belt 'em with my number 11 Hex.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Just me then.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Only the nose knows how hard the nose goes...

In reply to Richard Hall:
Isn't the crux pitch 5:14a? According to wiki it is anyway.

In reply to james oswald:

Dude

Get with the freakin programme with will you.

The majority of people who do the Nose part free and part aid climb it

5.13c or 5.9 C2

http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelnose

Long, sustained and flawless, the Nose may be the best rock climb in the world; it is certainly the best known. On paper, at 5.9 C1, The Nose sounds easy. It’s not. With over 31 pitches of steep, exposed and strenuous climbing, The Nose is an immense physical and psychological drain. Extensive climbing experience on long routes is mandatory. The failure rate is high. That said, anyone who is deeply committed to training for this climb can do it.