In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
This by any chance?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=03&year=2007#n34585
March 10: 2007: Jordan Buys On Form and Cranking: Onsights E8
by Mick Ryan
Jordan Buys, 25 of Burnley, Lancashire, has made a fine ascent of John Dunne's Carmen Picasso (originally given E9 6c) at the remote moorland crag of Upper Gorple, near Widdop in West Yorkshire (Where's Gorple? click here)
Jordan, originally from Paarl in South Africa, but now a British citizen and a member of the British Bouldering team is no stranger to hard climbing, he's climbed sport 8b and has a fine pedigree of bold gritstone ascents, both repeats and first ascents. He's repeated Dunne's Ilkley testpieces, New Statesman, which Jordan thought E9, and the bold and technical Countdown To Disaster E8 6b, and did the first ascent of Boomerang E8 at Egerton Quarry in Lancashire (Where's Egerton Quarry? click here)
Carmen Picasso has had several repeats by Dave MacLeod, Ben Bransby (flash ascent) and Dave Sutcliffe. Jordan and his wife Naomi walked the 2 miles across moorland to Upper Gorple and when there Naomi abbed the route placing the top wire, a marginal DMM Peenut 2. Jordan then, without having been on the route or seen anyone do the moves, climbed it in one push.