UKC

Gaia

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 JSA 30 Oct 2008
is it on-sightable?

has it already been onsighted?
In reply to the inspiral carpet: well i dont know but stone monkey and hard grit make it hard to claim a true onsight, I reckon tis likey that by the time you are good enough and ahv dedicated that much time to be able to onsight E8, its likely you are bit obsessive and ahve prob seen Hard Grit and stone monkey many times!
 krank 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
all climbs can be onsighted
OP JSA 30 Oct 2008
In reply to dunkymonkey17:
i have the worst memory known to man so i could, in theory, watch the video before setting off on the route and forget every move i'd just seen
 EricpAndrew 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
i think little of the moves on gaia would be made easier having seen either of the films.

its "safe" now though, so an onsight is viable
 Tyler 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

JR who sometimes posts on here made a very good on-sight attempt, there is a picture of the fall in the gallery here and the attmept featured on one of Beardown Productions videos on their website (I think the film you want is "A gritstone year")
OP JSA 30 Oct 2008
In reply to EricpAndrew:

i'm having a pretty good comeback so far so i reckon i'd like to try onsight it, i just need to be a bit fitter and cut down on the smokes! :0)
 Ram MkiV 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

> has it already been onsighted?

no and johnny's original style (minimal inspection, tried/done the moves but not linked the full route) probably hasn't been improved upon. I've read/heard it's been flashed on top rope which is hardly surprising since the climbing's only ~F7b+. Which puts a flash within the realms of possibility even for a punter? Albeit a tallish, brave one.
 catt 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

It's got a harder, direct finish now. Why hasn't that superceded Gaia in terms of attention, you rarely hear much about it. Has it even been repeated?

Sorry, slight tangent...
 JR 30 Oct 2008
In reply to catt:
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
>
> It's got a harder, direct finish now. Why hasn't that superceded Gaia in terms of attention, you rarely hear much about it. Has it even been repeated?
>

Yes by Toby Benham (on Christmas Day IIRC)

OP JSA 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

it was a suggestion by someone on tuesday that i should try it after toproping end of the affair on the second attempt, i hope i'll have that in the bag before christmas(weather permitting!)
 JDDD 30 Oct 2008
In reply to JR:

> Yes by Toby Benham (on Christmas Day IIRC)

So you are saying that a nip of sherry is essential for a successful ascent?
 JR 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

I wonder why? They're very different routes.

Have a go at the flash, it must be pretty safe and someone will do it sooner or later.
OP JSA 30 Oct 2008
In reply to JR:

i don't even know where black rocks is let alone been there, i just hope we get a good spell of weather over the winter!
 graeme jackson 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
> (In reply to JR)
>
> i don't even know where black rocks is let alone been there,

Cromford, not too far from Matlock bath.
Removed User 30 Oct 2008
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

> i don't even know where black rocks is let alone been there, i just hope we get a good spell of weather over the winter!<

just above Cromford and about 5 minutes walk from where I live so if you do give me a shout and I'll get a cuppa for ya

OP JSA 30 Oct 2008
In reply to Removed User:

cheers simon, coffee 2 sugars please :0)
 Jus 30 Oct 2008
In reply to JR:

Toby did Harder Faster? I didn't know.

The story about the first ascent makes my palms sweat every time.
 JR 30 Oct 2008
In reply to Jus:

yeah just checked 25/12/2003
 Mike Hartley 30 Oct 2008
In reply to krank:
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
> all climbs can be onsighted

<cough> Rhapsody <cough>
 krank 30 Oct 2008
In reply to Mike Hartley:
<cough> Ondra <cough>
 Mike Hartley 30 Oct 2008
In reply to krank:

What the hells an Ondra?!
In reply to the inspiral carpet: i think the thing to remember is these routes are all capable of being OS'ed as they aren't that HARD, there just BOLD!!

EOTA - F7b/7b+?
Gaia - F7b/7b+?
 Chris F 30 Oct 2008
In reply to Mike Hartley:
> (In reply to krank)
>
> What the hells an Ondra?!

The next genration of climbing robot.

 krank 30 Oct 2008
In reply to Mike Hartley:
He's a Czech mutant boy. The current visit by the yanks just illustrates what could be done to the uk hard trad climbs. Ondra, Patxi, Andrada or the like would, i imagine, destroy routes like rhapsody.
In reply to krank: i don't think they would do them much quicker than Steve, not without all the beta etc and a good head
 krank 30 Oct 2008
In reply to north country boy:
I do. Steve Mc is very very good but he is not the best. The mutant boy walked La Rambla, 4th try.
In reply to the inspiral carpet: My memory is so bad that I have on sighted the same route twice!
 Nic 30 Oct 2008
In reply to Mike Hartley:

> What the hells an Ondra?!

The new standardised EU grading unit. 1 Ondra is approximately = E10, so Three Pebble Slab is approximately 0.09 Ondras...
Removed User 30 Oct 2008
In reply to Nic: Is that rounded up form 0.085?
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