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uk's best dyno.

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ian h 29 Dec 2002
sitting at home bored just wondering what people think the uk's best dyno is. for me it has to be either the georges wall dyno or vienna.
Trevor N 30 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h: In my oppinion, the most impressive is the Brad Pit dyno at Stanage 8b.
Ian Hill 30 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h: the NTBTA dyno...good holds all the way but far more worrying/committing than any of the above mentioned problems and accessible to far more people...
 StuartM 30 Dec 2002
In reply to Ian Hill: two of the best can be found here:

http://www.ukbouldering.com/servlet/ReceiveActionServlet?process=videos

The Big Dyno at the Roaches and the John Dunne Slap

that one at Widdop on www.yorkshiregrit.com looks cool too
ian h 30 Dec 2002
In reply to Trevor N:
is this method now not redundant since everybody does it by putting there heel up.
 Andy Farnell 30 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h: Vitalite at Pex Hill or Vienna at Bowden Doors.

Andy F
ian h 30 Dec 2002
In reply to andy farnell:
vitalite not heard of that one. whats it like what grade is it? is there any info on the web for pex hill topos etc
 mark s 30 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h: g-wall dyno is o.k but it has to be either deliverence,buckstone or the undercut dyno at the roaches
ian h 30 Dec 2002
In reply to mark s: yeah the buckstone is pretty cool not done deliverence .....yet. where is the one at the roaches you are on about. i have done the one labeled as 16a in the roaches section of the peak rock fax. do you mean this?
 StuartM 31 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h: watch the video in the link above - that should show you pretty clearly
 Ben Farley 31 Dec 2002
In reply to andy farnell: Ah Andy, are you trying to tempt me into a discussion about Pex? You know about my love for that problem...

I've never really considered it a true dyno though. And despite the real quality of Vitalite, its not a national classic.
 Tom Briggs 31 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h:

There's a great dyno right of Shark's Fin at Ramshaw. Sit start on the really low holds about a 3 feet right of the flake, must be 7 foot to very good holds?
OP l applat 31 Dec 2002
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: what about the niche dyno at brimham?
 Andy Farnell 31 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h: Vitalite is V8, a dyno from two poor slopey pockets to a break.

It is in the Cheshire sandstone guide, and may well be in the new Gritfax West (hopefully).

Andy F
 Andy Farnell 31 Dec 2002
In reply to Ben Farley: Vitalite is not far from being a true dyno (I've got no points of contact in mid-flight).

As for not being a national classic, that's just because most of the nation don't know about it.

Andy F
OP Gruff 31 Dec 2002
In reply to ian h:

Red Button at Tan y grisiau!

The best dyno in the world, let alone the UK!

g
ian h 02 Jan 2003
In reply to Gruff: where the f*ck is that place tan y grisiau. is there a guide or anything on the net.
FH 03 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h:

Jon had a good selection here;

http://www.rockfax.com/rocktalk/t.php?t=24270.

FH 03 Jan 2003
In reply to l applat:
> (In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor) what about the niche dyno at brimham?

Your to old and fat for that one Tommy!

Another desperate one at Brimham is the one on the block left of Pommel, vid of Andy Robinson giving it a go on Yorkshiregrit.com

666DENVER666 03 Jan 2003
In reply to andy farnell:

What where when?!? Is vitalite the V9 to the right of makey road
 Andy Farnell 03 Jan 2003
In reply to 666DENVER666: It's a V8 to the right of the V9 dyno in your photo's.

A low rockover start to a slopey pocket with your left, the upto the two eye's (slopey pockets) and jump for the break.

Andy F
666DENVER666 03 Jan 2003
In reply to andy farnell:

Never tried that one bugger. is it still wet over there?
 Andy Farnell 03 Jan 2003
In reply to 666DENVER666: Pissed down all day yesterday but it's dry at the minute. Pex will be soaking for a few days .

Andy F
m@ 09 Jan 2003
In reply to l applat:

i agree, that is a superb dyno. a little undergraded at V7 mind, its a bloody long way.

i've done it a couple of times and reckon its v8/9.

laterzz

m@
FH 09 Jan 2003
In reply to m@:

Might be wrong but I thought that got V10 in the guide?
Nik at work 09 Jan 2003
In reply to FH:
Is this that Hoooooge dyno you showed me at the w'end?
FH 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:

You meen pointed at, yes.
Nik at work 09 Jan 2003
In reply to FH:
well it looked V10 (not that I understand V grades) its enormous!!!
(well it looks it when your only 5'6")
m@ 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:

there's one in the niche from big sandy pockets to a rounded nose (the prow the sticks out on the left hand side).

thats the one i mean. it gets v7 in the guide.

laterzz

m@
Nik at work 09 Jan 2003
In reply to m@:
well i don't really know brimham at all (only been there once) but this thing was enormous, it looked about 7 foot up an overhanging wall with pretty poor footholds.
I only looked (as in literally just looked - massive pool of water under it) at it briefly and appeared to me to be very very difficult.
As I don't have the guide and don't even know thearea I have no idea if this is the dyno you are tlking about - but I suspect it isn't because I can't imagine this thing being V7.
m@ 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:

yup,

that's a different problem, thats to the right of where i'm talking about.

laterzz

m@
FH 09 Jan 2003
In reply to m@:

Have you done the V4(?), from the same sandy pockets to the sloping dish, find it so hard, no impossible to hang the dish.
NeilK 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:

You mean the Niche one? It might be V10 for a five-foot-sixer, but I tried it once and reckon about V8 for a normal heighted person. Mind you I didn't do it, c'est la vie.
Nik at work 09 Jan 2003
In reply to NeilK:
I have done the undercut dyno at the roaches and the buckstone and would say that for my height I am probably pretty good at dyno's, but this thing just looked enormous. Mind you I didn't even try it, maybe next time....
NeilK 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:

Well I didn't say it wasn't a long way! Not as far as some of the dyno's on Red Wall (Trowbarrow) tough. Mind you, I can't do those either...
Nik at work 09 Jan 2003
In reply to NeilK:
Hmmmm might have to make the journey up the motorway to check out all these places - trouble is I hate limestone!

What will conditions be like? When will it be climbable up there? Thinking Trowbarrow/Woodwell .And where is the new offering from Mr Gaskins (the V15 one - just to look at and say things like 'ooooo' and 'gosh')
OP Greg C 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:
My top six South Lakes Dyno`s...
The Trick (Fairy Steps) V6
Subliminal (Heysham Head) V9
Prophets of Sound (Trowbarrow)V9/10
Gregs Dyno (Trowbarrow) V8
Beastmaster (Warton Pinnacle) V5

Greg
OP Greg C 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Greg C:
Fix My Sink (V8) at Thorn Crags pretty good to!
m@ 09 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h:

chatterbop at longridge, while i remember.

sweet as a nut.

laterzz

m@
NeilK 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:

I used to think I hated Limestone too;
but I was
wrong,
and so are you.

Ha! Trowbarrow Red Wall and boulder should be dry, and I think Woodwell O'ert Road (best bit) is fairly dry at the mo, you should at least be able to get on Angel Deelite (best limestone V7 in England). Walk Away Sit-Start (V15) is at Fairy Steps, far left of the Upper Tier. Topos for all these areas are on CragX.

Greg, what about Atomic Garden? I'm still convinced it can be dynoed...
Nik at work 09 Jan 2003
In reply to NeilK:
cheers, will fairy steps be dry?
NeilK 09 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work:

It probably will as it goes. Last time I was there was last Saturday and only the problem I was working was totally dry, but I don't think its rained up there since then so everything else should have caught up. It'll be nice up there on a crisp winters day, but there's not that much there worth doing if you climb harder than V1! Thorn Crag's probably a better option for you, plus its made out of grit!
Ben Tye 10 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h:

For me it has to be the one on Wings of Unreason because it's on a route and it's such an unusual thing to do on a route..

B
ian h 10 Jan 2003
In reply to Greg C:
yeah cool where can i find out details of the dynos in your list, not being from the area but planning on visiting. the only one i have been able to locate is the trick at fairy steps
 mark s 11 Jan 2003
In reply to Ben Tye: eh up ben have u got them pics.
i remember adam long wanting to reverse wings,solo.he was hanging off the top.no one could believe what he was doing luckily he changed his mind.what a nutter.
NeilK 11 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h:

You can get access to topos for all the problems at www.nwbouldering.co.uk, a new site heavily under construction but coming on all the time, so keep an eye out for new features and areas (lots of cool stuff in the pipeline apparently). Except Beastmaster, as there's no Warton topo on there yet. You can do it static anyway, at least all the others are proper dynos!

Have fun...
OP Fedup 12 Jan 2003
In reply to all;
Yeah thats all good and true, but can we now talk about 'real dynos', ie: on a routes and not two foot of the ground with forty-seven skinny mates in silly hats and a couple of beds to stop you hurting yerself if you cock it up
 mark s 12 Jan 2003
In reply to Fedup: boom bip-ramshaw,awesome also thing on a spring,i aint led it yet just waiting for conditions.its a 7a dyno with a 20 foot fall on the back of your mind
OP nik at home 12 Jan 2003
In reply to mark s:
thats my lot - rivelin quarries
7a dyno up an arete above an upturned tree stump with no gear. Not very high but unpleasant landing. Can be done static but on the only ascent to date it was dyno-ed.
Nik at work 13 Jan 2003
In reply to nik at home:
Also isn't the last move of my herald of free enterprise at stange a poorly protected dyno. I've never been on the route so I may be wrong but I think the description describes it as such..
Wes O`Neill 13 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h: I reckon,either "Bens Dyno" or ""Double Dyno" at Fontainbleau...both are lovely!
 mark s 13 Jan 2003
In reply to Nik at work: might have a look up at rivelin soon.there are some good slabs aswell.
is there a few dyno routes at black rocks as we will be there in the near future.
OP Nik at home 13 Jan 2003
In reply to mark s:
If you go to rivelin go to the quarries and climb flex (E5 in guide - E6 really) it is amazing, as is overthrow of the green what-not next (E5) to it. Also Earth boots (E6) is brilliant (just left of jack the groove) and jack the groove (E5 in guide really E6) is ace. Thats My Lot (E8) is the obvious arete near piglet and is also amazing - and unrepeated. There is a slab boulder problem which is a direct start to Dougal - it is obvious where it goes (english 7a font 7b+???) and this may well be unrepeated
At the right hand end of the quarries is a short blank wall (near a route called woozle). Going up the centre of this is an amazing and unrepeated 8a/+ boulder problem and the left arete is a dynamic font 7b+ (can be done static).
If you have the old stanage guide you should be able to find all of the above. Also all the John Allen routes there are amazing. I seriously think it is one of the best crags in the peak for concentration of high quality routes - it is certainly one of themost underused which means it can be quite green. It is worth persevering with trust me.
I don't know black rocks very well but there is a dyno route there on the same boulder which has velvet silence et al on it round to the left called small things E6 6c crux is slapping/dynoing for the top - and hanging it.
If you want more info let me know.
ian h 13 Jan 2003
In reply to Wes O`Neill:
what do you mean by bens dyno
Gruff 14 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h:

Think he means Buckstone, as he's using the vid names, double dyno is a thing at isatis i think?

g
Futureboy 14 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h:

Deliverance has been mentioned, but despite the obvious howls of derision I'll be in for in picking such a prominent problem, I still think it's one of the best problems ever (even though I haven't done it yet!)
The moves are astounding.... High rock onto the slab, delicate almost no-hands shift to the flake, place the feet and FLOAT your hand to the pinched-out top of that flake, LH pebble, set feet and f**kin go!!!
I got sweaty hands just thinking about it!
I also love it because it's one of the few problems I don;t get frustrated trying and failing on. attwmpting it reminds me that it's not always important to do a problem, as long as you are enjoying the act of climbing on it.
A (random) bunch spent about 2hrs working it last Sat, in the snow, having a crack, coffee & smokes etc. then were treated to the best sunset I've seen in ages - a brilliant day out even though I didn;t do the problem!
That's what it's all about, huh?
daveP 14 Jan 2003
In reply to Futureboy:

Do you mean this satdy just gone, i.e. the 11th Jan?

I would say its not strictly a dyno cos some do it with a rockover/slap, but i get your drift....
ian h 14 Jan 2003
In reply to Gruff: do you think he has the real thing by any chance
Gruff 14 Jan 2003
In reply to ian h:

naaaah!

what's the story behind that anyhoo? Did BM get the First Ascent?

g
Futureboy 14 Jan 2003
In reply to daveP:
Yep, were you there?! It was great fun eh?
It's definitely a dyno for me I think, I just can't make that high right foot work at all - numerous embarrasing and painful scrapes down the slab have resulted from trying!!
ian h 14 Jan 2003
In reply to Gruff:
pretty sure jason myers did it first. could be wrong though think he does it on the one summer video as well
daveP 15 Jan 2003
In reply to Futureboy:

Yes, i was there from about 12 till 2.30, wearing a blue t-shirt and grey bottoms, swearing like a bastard when i kept getting close. wanna get back to it after the weather stops being wank.....

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