UKC

I've had a Northface redpoint jacket for the last 2 years , its been excellent for belaying, walking, renovating a house, drinking etc, but its at the end of its life. Would be happy to buy another, but wondered if anyone had any better suggestions for a replacement. Cheers Rob

In reply to rob1504:
the ones i've mainly been considering are the mountain equipment g2 alpine and the rab baltoro guide - both look good for weather resistance, durability and general range of use.

In reply to rob1504:

I have been eying the Haglofs Raptor but have yet to see one in the flesh

..funny thing is I am ordering some DMM raptors.. I seem to have a thing for Raptors

http://www.climbers-shop.com/7033/products/Haglofs_Raptor_Jacket.aspx

In reply to rob1504: Have you considered a windshirt? I'm a recent convert to them for everything from running in the rain to standing around on bonfire night, just choose the right fleece/jumper for underneath and they're immensely versatile.

In reply to rob1504: I'd rate the Marmot Genesis as a winter softshell. Cotswold are selling last year's one v cheap, but this year's one is better in many respects. Have been thinking about Redpoint as my belay jacket replacement.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: That's interesting, I've heard a few people say it's too warm/not breathable enough for walk ins. I might have a peak when I come to replace my G2.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: The only thing with the laminate soft shells like the Genesis, is they seem to defeat the object, as they're not much more breathable than a hard shell. If at all.

In reply to Lemony: Probably a thick question , but is windshirt a brand or type of top? Seems from the comments i've got quite a bit of research to do. Cheers for all the advice

In reply to rob1504:

By a windshirt I assume he means a lightwieght top made of pertex or even just nylon in some cases. This may sound basic but is actually extremely effective. As he suggests, by varying the insulation/base layer that you wear it over you can use it in a variety of conditions. In fact, after using this setup for a while, the only conditions you may want to put your hardshell on for are big downpours of continuous rain.

Eg > http://www.needlesports.com/acatalog/Mail_Order_Windproofs_40.html

A lot of these are 'shelled micro pile' meaning they already have an insulating layer bonded on the inside of the pertex/nylon (eg vapour rise and driclime) Many people consider these (or the heavier buffalo type shirts) to be the "real" softshell.

Whatever you want to call it these are great pieces of kit. I have had my driclime hooded top for 4 years now and wear it literally every time I go outdoors (well except maybe warmest part of summer)

In reply to Ian Black and Lemony: Ah.... I see what you mean. Yes, Genesis is too warm to walk in with in good weather. It's great for a walk in in shit weather, and for climbing in.

I don't expect to find a single garment that will cover everything in winter from warm walk in (fast, getting hot inside) to cold wet sleety walk in, to climbing in shit weather. I would expect to find one allround piece of equipment for a summer or autumn softshell, but I don't think that's realsitic for a winter one. For me the softshell is a shell first, i.e. it goes on top of what else I wear in the way I used to take a goretwex shell, but in winter it isn't a one piece fits all garment.

So, I walk in in Rab VR trail smock, which is good for warm walk ins and shit weather walk ins, then puyt the genesis on for climbing, and that works well in all types of weather. Alternatively, I have walked in in Genesis with a lightweight thermal tshirt on underneath in crap weather, and it's been ideal, despite me walking in fast and getting potentially sweaty - there's plenty of vents on it.

Clearly when compared to my Goretex, the Genesis is significanlty better all round for all situations when I would have worn goretex in the past. genesis is great for ski mountaineering, with thermal t-shirt underneath.

I guess it all depends how fast the indiv walks in/whether the individual runs hot or cold/how fast the individual climbs/what degree of discomfort the individual is prepared to put up with!

All the best.

In reply to rob1504:

Does anyone know what has changed between this year's and last years Marmot Genesis? That Cotswold Offer does look good!

In reply to m1ke_smith: Pockets are slightly higher (accessible with a harness on now, whereas not so on last year's one), the general cut of the jacket seems a bit better, a bit more sleek cut, the fabric seems slightly different so I guess it's improved.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: Trouble is Nick, I sweat like hell in the walk in, and walk in with just a base layer sometimes. I find my Dimension to be very breathable and almost waterproof.

In reply to Ian Black: Fair one, I tend to go in fast and sweaty too! I find Marmot windshirt for walk in good, as it is good for sweaty and cold conditions. Jeez....I've got A LOT of winter clothing....about time I cut up the credit card!!!

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: I think we've probably all got too much kit. I remember whilst serving and wearing the auld smelly helly under a windproof smock, and thinking this was real cutting edge technology. I wish the kit wasn't so f.....g sexy nowadays.

In reply to rob1504: i believe Millet used to do a wicked softshell, one that was actually warm as most of them are just like a heavy goretex that leaks after persistant rain.

In reply to Ian Black: The old green smelly helly fleece with the thumb loops - now that was the thing to wear wasn't it! Then Buffalo and Softie cornered the market. I remember buying a norwegiasn shirt before they were issused, I thought it was the dogs'...despite it's non-wicking properties!

All the best mate.