UKC

I've seen it quoted in different places as being:

Dmm Prowire
WC Wildwire
HB Hi-lite

Also, different weights are quoted in different places. Any thoughts?

In reply to Slab Happy:
I use DMM Wirelock on the clipping end and Wild Country Blaze with straight gates on the gear end. Pretty light and has the advantage of wire at one end but cannot be turned round so potentially damaging the rope.

In reply to Slab Happy: I use wild wires, they are v.light and will never look at anything else now.

In reply to MICKLEDORE:

confused!?? how does not being able to turn a quickdraw around damage a rope?? isnt it common practise to always use the same end for the rope to avoid damage??
anyway, there cant be much difference in weight between the lightest ones, wild-wires feel good to clip for me... but coz im a cheapskate i use cheap hb ones, straight gate one end, and wire the other.

wil t

In reply to Slab Happy:

I looked into this. DMM Prowire is THE lightest, but there's bugger all in it really. WC's have a nice 'feel' in use. Not used the HB's, but no doubt they're fine.

In reply to Anonymous:


Well equal to the Black Diamond Neutrino anyhow.

In reply to Slab Happy:
personally, I'd make my own out of a neutrino (for gear), dyneema sling and pro wire.

In reply to Chris Georg:

Use the same, they are very light and I will always use them, come to think of it I have never found a heavy one has anyone?

In reply to katonka:
Common sense really, and if you'd been reading previous threads on here you would know about it. For the simple minded here is an explanation...if you use wiregate krabs you have to be alert to remember to always clip the same end into the gear. If you don't then there is a chance that you could damage the inside surface of the krab particularly if you have a fall, then when you use it the other way up that damage is next to the rope. Theoretical I know but possible. If you use "standard" krabs they have a straight gate for the gear, and a bent gate for the rope so no confusion should occur. Also if you had bothered to join BMC you would have seen just such a warning in Summit.

In reply to MICKLEDORE: Easily solved, on wild wires the adage to use is -

Red for Rope
Blue for Bolt (no i dont sport climb, but gear doesnt begin with 'B')

for the uncertain amongst you, the wild wire has a blue krab and a red crab.

In reply to MICKLEDORE: no need to be nasty, but i think you answered my question with my answer. the guy i replied to said he had a straight gate one end, and wire the other, so there was no confusion about which end was for the rope. read my post again.

wil t

In reply to Chris Georg: If you call the "blue" "grey", then it can be:
Red for rope
Grey for gear

In reply to katonka: sorry, talking to myself here, but if you have two different krabs at either end then there wouldn't be confusion right, and you say it's a problem that you cant turn it around, and contradict youself by saying that you always use the same end for the rope, hence not turning it round for fear of damage. just trying to see if i missed something.

wil t

In reply to CENSORED: better still...red for rope, blue for belay!

smithy

In reply to katonka:

Shit guys, why not just solo and forget the bloody weight.

In reply to smith: Tend to use screw gates for my belays!

In reply to CENSORED:

i think he means a running belay... but to be fair i use wiregates for my belays anyway, it is easier