/ LOCAL NEWS: Aide Jebb, New route on Stanage, E6 7a

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Evil Gazebo (E6 7a - Font 7c-ish) follows "Funky moves between the breaks, then a nose grinding mantle to finish"

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45464
Liam Copley - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: nice, good to see some english 7a routes bieng put up. The mantle doesn't sound very nice, good work.
Silum - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: sweet, safe 7a to try. haha. Though it does look a bit like a highball boulder problem
Chris the Tall - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I'm guessing Mr Jebb is a Half Man Half Biscuit fan, as there is a song called "Used to be in Evil Gazebo" on the "Trouble over Bridgewater" album

Includes the chorus "I've been in a mental hospital".......
Durbs on 24 Nov 2008
Aye... In true armchair commentary style, looking at it - it does strike me as more of a risky solo/highball than a trad-route. What is it 8m?

[/tw*t mode]

;)
Anonymous on 24 Nov 2008 - reverse.completel.net
In reply to Durbs:

The description makes the topout sound pretty hard.

I'd be happy falling of the face of that buttress onto a stack of pads, but I wouldn't want to roll sideways off the top of it. Would you?
Yorkspud on 24 Nov 2008 - gateway-302.energis.gsi.gov.uk
In reply to Silum:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) sweet, safe 7a to try. haha. Though it does look a bit like a highball boulder problem

But it has gear so just as much a trad route - more so since that was the first ascent?
TonyM - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply:
Well done, Aide. Saw you tryin it a week ago last Sunday. Close on lots of attempts, but reckoned you'd get it when fresh.
Fraser on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Durbs:

> Aye... In true armchair commentary style, looking at it - it does strike me as more of a risky solo/highball than a trad-route. What is it 8m?
>

Looking at the photo in the News section - which is a great shot btw - I think I must agree. But I'm sure it feels like a route when you're on it!

Excellent effort, whatever you want to call it.
Aide jebb on 24 Nov 2008 - 82-47-195-167.cable.ubr01.shef.blueyonder.co.uk
If people fancy highballing this they can go for it. I was shiting myself on the mantle and I had a cam by my waist. Not to mention the stone trough directly below. This high balling thing is all well and good but, whatís easier a few cams and a rope, shock horror, leading routes, or carrying fifteen pads to the crag. I for one always feel a bit daft climbing past bomber gear placements.

If your keen though get yourselves up there and Iíll buy you a beer. Mega climbing, I would say that though.

Apologies any one in the area on the days Iíve spent falling off this route. My language may not always have been great! Sorry.

Well done who ever got the name, the mighty biscuit! ďIíve been in a mental hospital but I donít like to talk about that muchĒ Awesome.

Aide.

john howard 1 - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb: Nice one!Sounds like a great route, good effort.
andi turner - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:

Fantastic, that looks great. Well done.
sheavi07 - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:

good effort - well done
Silum - on 24 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:
> If people fancy highballing this they can go for it. I was shiting myself on the mantle and I had a cam by my waist. Not to mention the stone trough directly below. This high balling thing is all well and good but, whatís easier a few cams and a rope, shock horror, leading routes, or carrying fifteen pads to the crag. I for one always feel a bit daft climbing past bomber gear placements.
>
> If your keen though get yourselves up there and Iíll buy you a beer. Mega climbing, I would say that though.
>
> Apologies any one in the area on the days Iíve spent falling off this route. My language may not always have been great! Sorry.
>
> Well done who ever got the name, the mighty biscuit! ďIíve been in a mental hospital but I donít like to talk about that muchĒ Awesome.
>
> Aide.

great effort Aide. Certainly didnt mean any disrespect by saying it could be bouldered, and your quite right, if theirs gear it makes sense to use it and climb it that way.

Btw, this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=102367 makes it look like a brilliant line!
Anonymous on 25 Nov 2008 - 82-47-195-167.cable.ubr01.shef.blueyonder.co.uk
None taken I was just pointing out the obvious. If people want to high ball these things they can go for it, seems a logical thing to do but not for me. ohh cam 3 and a cam 2. Besides i'm too pussy 8m is still 8m's.

Aide
seagull on 25 Nov 2008
In reply to Anonymous:

The landing looks shocking anyway. Gear seems the sensible option. Good effort.
Fraser on 25 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:

Yes, like said above, I didn't mean or want to take anything away from your ascent. I'm sure I'd want gear and mats if I tried any moves there! I couldn't tell frm the photo if those two blocks were directly below the line of the route or slightly towards the camera.

Again, a fine effort, well done.
mark s - on 25 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb: nice one yoth...
gethin_allen on 25 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:
I think I may have saw you hanging around on it on Saturday, It looked pretty hard.
Respect for doing it, respect even due just for getting out in the freezing weather.
I'd planned to do a bit of bouldering and as soon as i felt how cold it was i abandoned all hope of climbing and went for a walk instead.
Perhaps i'm just soft though.
Gus - on 25 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:
Can't believe you bottled out of calling it the Fritzl Room, Sh** B***ard!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ackbar - on 26 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: ground up?
Aide jebb - on 26 Nov 2008
Ground up? sadly not, had to try the moves with a rope.
JSA - on 26 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:

good on you Aide, looks nails!
Jon Read - on 26 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:
Looks nice; good stuff. Hard AND safe -- perfect! I guess this buttress must surely be mature now. Perhaps the hardest concentration of E-grades anywhere on grit?
Anonymous on 26 Nov 2008 - ains-202-134-234-56.ains.net.au
saw dawes on it yrs ago, goes up a nice shield feature if i remember, looks nails
TomPR - on 26 Nov 2008
In reply to Aide jebb:

Out of interest Aide, how tall are you?
Aide jebb - on 27 Nov 2008
I'm 5.10, I reckon this would be easier for the tall, but a lot harder for the short, i did kind of have to jump the last move to the break, well both feet came off.

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