/ EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS: Team America On The Grit
- Film 1: Kevin (first) then Alex climbing The Promise (E10 or E8)
- Film 2: Kevin makes the first Ground Up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c)
- Film 3: Team America climb End of the Affair (E8 6c) (watch out for that no-hands rest!)
We will be publishing Film 2 at 9am tomorrow (Thursday) morning and film 3 at 9am on Friday morning.
Watch the first film - The Promise:
How an earth did The Promise ever get E10!?!
> Brilliant effort!
> How an earth did The Promise ever get E10!?!
> Silly grading!
It's an amazing effort for them both to repeat it and for it to get climbed in the first place but E10?
I'd rather try that than EOTA or some other E8's there is to go at!
E10's a massive grade!
>"How an earth did The Promise ever get E10!?!"
What grade did it feel like to you? I might be tempted to give it a go if you thought it was around the E1/E2 mark...
I thought they kicked their trip off with a rapid ascent of New Statesment arguably the best line of the lot!
As in, seriously, theirs now way looking at the route it could possibly be E10, it looks like a boulder problem number 1, and from the shot of alex bounce testing the gear... it looks pretty bomber
Yes, the video footage of that was very dark and grey, and filmed from a static position quite a distance away. Not a great bit of footage although a very impressive ascent never-the-less.
Technically it looks really hard but compared to lots of other routes with a lower E grade it's just not as serious.
Amazing line what ever the grade is!
Good report. Glad you mentioned James Pearson, as despite all this saga over down-grades he is still a f*ckin good climber who has set some great lines.
As Kevin states, Equilibrium is hard, very serious and JP ticked. Respect.
Music's great as well, especially through my sound system.
On the DVD it was made to look like a route rather than the boulder problem it appears to be here. I wonder if JP will get fed up with the flak and become a runner like Rich S too?
Kevin, in particular, makes it look like a path!
Great effort guys.
All three make it look easy on the lead.
One comment stands out though - Alex thought Promise was two E grades harder than End of the Affair.
> One comment stands out though - Alex thought Promise was two E grades harder than End of the Affair.
I met up with them at a very windy Curbar, shortly after Alex had made a flash ascent of The End Of The Affair. In line with what I have said above, he was incredibly modest, and un-phased by this very news worthy ascent and told me, without a hint of snobbery or cockiness, that he felt the route was E6!
Yes Good film
It would be so much better without the music though and just leave the sound from the footage with maybe a few tones or something more transparent.
Why do all climbing films now have the stock music soundtrack?
Wow, that was some impressively controlled climbing.
I think JP is getting a fairly unfair bashing on these boards at the moment. The climbing looks seriously hard and these americans are awesome climbers, not just some unknown punters. They are up there with the best in the world so you would expect them to climb our hardest routes.
Has he done much at E6? You get the impression from the news that they spent the whole month on E8+. Did they get ticking (presumably solo) of the classic 3* routes at E6 and under?
Hi I wondered if it might be possible to amend this in your report? I remember reading about Moon's 8c grade for 'Yoghurt Arete' on toprope in a 'Rock Notes' report in High Magazine in 1993 (showing my age....haha!)
Thanks a lot.
Yes, but what have they ever done on g... ..Oh hang on a minute...
> The climbing looks seriously hard and these americans are awesome climbers, not just some unknown punters. They are up there with the best in the world so you would expect them to climb our hardest routes.
You keep hearing this. This so-called 'expectation'.
Before Team America came over, very few UK climbers had heard of Kevin Jorgeson, Alex Honnold and Matt Segal (a trio amongst many talented American climbers who are progressing climbing).
We'd run several news reports about Alex's solos and Kevin's highballing at Bishop and Hueco.
But very few UK climbers actually knew how good they were, until now that is.... now that they have performed on our hallowed gritstone.
I'm sure many, disregarding the inevitable and expected ; o ) grade debates (very peculiar to the UK because of our complex sysytem)..... are absolutely inspired and motivated by what they achieved on such a short trip.
> Hi I wondered if it might be possible to amend this in your report? I remember reading about Moon's 8c grade for 'Yoghurt Arete' on toprope in a 'Rock Notes' report in High Magazine in 1993...
Come on, Ted. That really is nonsense! ;-)
You know you should never rely on such works of pure fiction...
Thanks for the info.
I accept that Ben said it was 8c at that time - I really have no idea (I was 12! However my OTE collection started with No. 38 in 1993, so I guess I should have got High instead), but it is generally regarded to be 8b/+ now, though the top-rope grade before Neil B led it was considered to be 8b+.
Personally I struggle to grade short grit-esque things with French grades anyway, and find bouldering grades much easier to interpret.
Here's a nice article covering Equilibrium from Neil B - with the 8b+ grade mentioned:
Cheers, and thanks for the good posting.
On sight solo of London Wall?! That's mind-boggling to me, especially having seen footage of Leo Houlding just barely managing it on lead.
Great thanks for the link Jack, (I myself was a callow youth aged 14 at that time!) Yes it is 8b+ now, Moonie probably didn't use the best sequence.
I'm shocked Neil! I thought it was gospel!....only kidding :)
"Good climb, great effort; but"...... always the but.
I'll repeat what Jack said before..... are you nuts???
Of course anyone in their right mind would bounce test a single piece of gear that is the only piece of gear on a climb.
It seems to me that as the grades increase there is a different set of ethics applied. If the climb was HVS we would call backing off from the gear or jumping on the gear a fall, or at least a compromised ascent. Why, just because the grade is harder is it any different? Is there a general reduction in ethics just so we can bag higher grades? Would it be OK to say, "It is OK to pull up on the gear, you'd be mad not to because it is E10!"? As he was back on the ground, would it still be a clean ascent if once back on the ground he left the gear, went home for a kip and came back the next day?
I'm interested in what constitutes a clean ascent, I think it looks an awesome climb and climbing it in any style is a great thing but surely there is a continuum of ascent styles and swinging on the rope is less pure than it could be?
> You keep hearing this. This so-called 'expectation'.
> Before Team America came over, very few UK climbers had heard of Kevin Jorgeson, Alex Honnold and Matt Segal ...
But Mick, don't you think it's not unreasonable to have a sort of "retro-expectation". Knowing now just how strong these 3 guys are, you wouldn't be surprised to have them succeed on some of our hardest routes. The fact that a fair few of these routes are almost high-ball problems (to them), doesn't take anything away from their achievements, but I would like to have seen them on TWOL or come up for a play on Echo Wall. To me, that would be much more impressive, but just for different reasons.
Makes you wonder just how many unknown climbers there are out there, just off the radar, sending very hard routes.
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