/ NEWS: Katy Whittaker - Master's Edge E7 6b/c
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
>"James McHaffie made the first ground-up, no falls ascent in 2007."
Just for clarity is that the same as a "Beta Flash" or am I missing some subtlety inferred from your form of words.
Ok, I see he down climbed a fair bit of the climb and did it on a second go which makes it hard to describe as a "Flash" even if technically it was.
Holy Moly! Tremendous job.
It's all happening on the grit at the moment isn't it?
That's great, nice one Katy!
That's amazing - truly impressive.
Would love to see some video footage of this ascent... did anyone take any?
How many women have climbed E7?
Unfortunately Honnold's ascent could hardly be described as 'on-sight' as the route was covered in chalk and tick-marks.
Mad props to Katy.
good going Katy, TEOTA next? you were going very well!, so much i thought you'd lead it! :0)
> Unfortunately Honnold's ascent could hardly be described as 'on-sight' as the route was covered in chalk and tick-marks.
I don't agree, I think chalk is a necessary evil and most routes are plastered in it. All the eurowads' onsights on the continent (eg. Ondra, Paxti) are done with chalk/ ticks on the holds, why not at Millstone?
I'll bet she didn't swear like airlie either! :0)
I was stood underneath at the time and this was a really smooth and impressive ascent. No messing about. An awesome bit of climbing.
> I don't agree, I think chalk is a necessary evil and most routes are plastered in it. All the eurowads' onsights on the continent (eg. Ondra, Paxti) are done with chalk/ ticks on the holds, why not at Millstone?
Normally I'd agree with you, but you didn't see the route on the day. All those notoriously blind flakes on the right and little smears neatly marked up with rookie stripes. Alex was first to admit it rather changed the prospect.
...and back to Katy.
I think it is. It did leave room for improvement though...
>"I dont see why james McHaffie's ascent is not regarded as the first onsight."
I don't know but I assume the on-sight wasn't claimed because he had some beta for the route e.g. he'd seen someone on it; he knew what size of gear to take; he knew how high he could go before he was into the ground fall zone ie he'd seen Hard Grit!
If this is the case then it has been 'ignored' in the old news report:
> I think it is. It did leave room for improvement though...
According to UKClimbing's report from when James McHaffie and Pete Robins did it, James tried on-sight, fell off, watched Pete do it (with one fall) and then James did it. So neither managed it on-sight because both had watched the other on it. According to the same report, Nic Sellers had previously done it ground up with one fall and Liam Halsey on-sighted it.
Given that the route is filmed in Hard Grit presumably Alex's ascent wouldn't be on-sight either, chalk or no chalk. Unless he covered his eyes at that bit.
Good work Katy.
Indeed, Liam Halsey's ascent was reported as an onsight flash.
Although, confusingly, Grimer's grit onsighting list on the BMC website says for Master's Edge:
"Martin Atkinson / Neil Gresham / Nic Sellers, Liam Halsey,
all ground up. Not yet flashed or on-sighted."
Who then? If you know of another please say who it is?
A stunning effort from both climbers and pretty cruel on Caffe that he couldn't see the right crimp at the crux but shows how these tiny bits of information can be crucial...
James' ascent wasn't quite 'onsight' as he saw Pete do it after he had reversed, but given he had already done all the moves bar the top slap, he didn't really gain much info from Pete's ascent.
They also did the top 'slap' totally differently anyway - as in, Caff doesn't slap!
But still not a totally pure 'onsight'.
Both Pete and Caff were smooth as ever.
And what a great effort by Katy - superb route, great bit of climbing. I loved the Grit Kids film too. Awesome - well done. Would love to do that route myself - Caff even gave me the Alien for my birthday! Now there's a hint!!!
i always thought the route was 7c+. the report puts it at 7b+.
Good Effort, to Katy BTW.
Imagine the sibbling rivalry in that household.
Nice one Katy, just make sure you clean the coffee machine next time you are at work :-)
But doesn't everyone know about the Tr*c*m?
Yep, fantastic! :-)
Me too. Probably (along with the footage of The Hurting), my highlight of Committed II.
Brilliant. Nice one.
> How many women have climbed E7?
Awesome effort Katy! Whats next?
Here's a few that have... Airlie Anderson, Emma Twyford, Lucinda Hughes, Lucy Creamer, Katherine Shirrmacher, Lisa Rands, Glenda Huxter and Katy of course. We just need to get Mina on a rope now!
> Nice one Katy, just make sure you clean the coffee machine next time you are at work :-)
Can't believe your making her clean after climbing an E7, slave driver!
> How many women have climbed E7?
How many girls have onsighted E7?
Get back under your bridge Struan.
> How many girls have onsighted E7?
Glenda Huxter did The Bells, The Bells onsight. Not sure about any others.
I thought Glenda's ascent was little contentious. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I hadn't heard that. She's also done Wreath of Deadly Nightshade (E7) onsight according to various websites.
Just goes to show what a topsy-turvy world British climbing is when a female onsight of Wreath goes unnoticed and headpoints of grit E7's are grounbreaking news. (no slight on Katy of course! well done!)
> Glenda Huxter did The Bells, The Bells onsight. Not sure about any others.
My understanding is that Glenda had side-runners in The Cad.
I've noticed mats being used on some of these ascents. Which section is more likely to result in injury on Master's Edge (particularly if you are short), the start without mats (ask Mike Lea)or the finish?
> My understanding is that Glenda had side-runners in The Cad.
That's what I heard. My mate who onsighted it reckoned this would reduce the grade.
I wonder If I will ever get the chance to venture onto that wall........
I doubt you'll be in the queue long enough to get bored!
Nobody would ever claim to have 'climbed' E-whatever having headpointed it, would they?
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