/ NEWS: Katy Whittaker - Master's Edge E7 6b/c

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Katy Whittaker has made what is thought to be the second female ascent of the coveted gritstone route Master's Edge (E7 6b/c).

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
JLS on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

>"James McHaffie made the first ground-up, no falls ascent in 2007."

Just for clarity is that the same as a "Beta Flash" or am I missing some subtlety inferred from your form of words.
JLS on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to JLS:

Ok, I see he down climbed a fair bit of the climb and did it on a second go which makes it hard to describe as a "Flash" even if technically it was.
Al Evans on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Wow! Katy!
chris_j_s - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Holy Moly! Tremendous job.

It's all happening on the grit at the moment isn't it?
diff - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

That's great, nice one Katy!
Hardonicus - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Good Stuff. No mention of the route's first onsight ascent last week by a certain Mr Honnold of Imerica in your history section?
Steve Kirman - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

That's amazing - truly impressive.

Would love to see some video footage of this ascent... did anyone take any?

Steven
highrepute on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

How many women have climbed E7?
Adam Long - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Hardonicus:

Unfortunately Honnold's ascent could hardly be described as 'on-sight' as the route was covered in chalk and tick-marks.

Mad props to Katy.
JSA - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

good going Katy, TEOTA next? you were going very well!, so much i thought you'd lead it! :0)
teddy - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Adam L:
> (In reply to Hardonicus)
>
> Unfortunately Honnold's ascent could hardly be described as 'on-sight' as the route was covered in chalk and tick-marks.
>

I don't agree, I think chalk is a necessary evil and most routes are plastered in it. All the eurowads' onsights on the continent (eg. Ondra, Paxti) are done with chalk/ ticks on the holds, why not at Millstone?
JSA - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I'll bet she didn't swear like airlie either! :0)
John Roberts (JR) - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I was stood underneath at the time and this was a really smooth and impressive ascent. No messing about. An awesome bit of climbing.
Adam Long - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to teddy:
> (In reply to Adam L)
> [...]
>
> I don't agree, I think chalk is a necessary evil and most routes are plastered in it. All the eurowads' onsights on the continent (eg. Ondra, Paxti) are done with chalk/ ticks on the holds, why not at Millstone?

Normally I'd agree with you, but you didn't see the route on the day. All those notoriously blind flakes on the right and little smears neatly marked up with rookie stripes. Alex was first to admit it rather changed the prospect.

...and back to Katy.
guitar88 - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to JLS: I dont see why james McHaffie's ascent is not regarded as the first onsight. He down climbed from the upper crux and at no point fell off. This is no different to reversing to the ground after placing gear then climbing back past the gear to the top, a tactic used commonly all around the country..
Adam Long - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to guitar88:

I think it is. It did leave room for improvement though...
JLS on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to guitar88:

>"I dont see why james McHaffie's ascent is not regarded as the first onsight."

I don't know but I assume the on-sight wasn't claimed because he had some beta for the route e.g. he'd seen someone on it; he knew what size of gear to take; he knew how high he could go before he was into the ground fall zone ie he'd seen Hard Grit!
john howard 1 - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Nice one!
Calder - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to guitar88)

> I don't know but I assume the on-sight wasn't claimed because he had some beta for the route e.g. he'd seen someone on it; he knew what size of gear to take; he knew how high he could go before he was into the ground fall zone ie he'd seen Hard Grit!

If this is the case then it has been 'ignored' in the old news report:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2007
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HughM - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Adam L:
> (In reply to guitar88)
> I think it is. It did leave room for improvement though...

According to UKClimbing's report from when James McHaffie and Pete Robins did it, James tried on-sight, fell off, watched Pete do it (with one fall) and then James did it. So neither managed it on-sight because both had watched the other on it. According to the same report, Nic Sellers had previously done it ground up with one fall and Liam Halsey on-sighted it.

Given that the route is filmed in Hard Grit presumably Alex's ascent wouldn't be on-sight either, chalk or no chalk. Unless he covered his eyes at that bit.

Good work Katy.


guitar88 - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Adam L: Yeh, i suppose it did. Anyhow, a great effort by katy.
north country boy - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to HughM: it has been flashed with no reversing to ground prior to Alex Honnolds ascent
HughM - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to north country boy:
> (In reply to HughM) it has been flashed with no reversing to ground prior to Alex Honnolds ascent

Indeed, Liam Halsey's ascent was reported as an onsight flash.

HughM - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to HughM:

Although, confusingly, Grimer's grit onsighting list on the BMC website says for Master's Edge:

"Martin Atkinson / Neil Gresham / Nic Sellers, Liam Halsey,
all ground up. Not yet flashed or on-sighted."
north country boy - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to HughM: yeah besides Liam Halsey
Michael Ryan - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to north country boy:
> (In reply to HughM) yeah besides Liam Halsey

Who then? If you know of another please say who it is?

In reply to HughM: Just to throw a bit more light on the Caffe/Robins ascents... Caffe tried first on the route and it was unchalked. he got right up to the crux spent a about 20mins or so on the crux layaway(!) reaching for the crimp, he kept going for the wrong crimp and hence couldn't hold it but amazingly did not fall off and eventually reversed the whole route down to the ground with no slips or falls (which in itself deserves some kind of reversing medal). Then Pete tries, gets up to the crux, slaps for the crimp on the crux and falls off. Pete gets back on and sends it second go (a la opening scene in On Sight) this time finding the correct crimp. Caffe has another go and this time cruises it as the correct crimp is chalked up and he's just belayed Pete doing it.

A stunning effort from both climbers and pretty cruel on Caffe that he couldn't see the right crimp at the crux but shows how these tiny bits of information can be crucial...
In reply to north country boy: I was subsequently told that Liam Halsey made a 'ground-up with falls' ascent - and Grimer's report is incorrect.

James' ascent wasn't quite 'onsight' as he saw Pete do it after he had reversed, but given he had already done all the moves bar the top slap, he didn't really gain much info from Pete's ascent.

They also did the top 'slap' totally differently anyway - as in, Caff doesn't slap!

But still not a totally pure 'onsight'.

Both Pete and Caff were smooth as ever.

On Topic:

And what a great effort by Katy - superb route, great bit of climbing. I loved the Grit Kids film too. Awesome - well done. Would love to do that route myself - Caff even gave me the Alien for my birthday! Now there's a hint!!!

Jack
DEvans - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to all

i always thought the route was 7c+. the report puts it at 7b+.


dan
Dringo - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Caff gave me a Zero cam 3? for my birthday jack, what does that mean he wants me to climb or does he just want me to fall off and die!

Good Effort, to Katy BTW.

Imagine the sibbling rivalry in that household.
Graeme Alderson on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Dringo: I suspect Pete is more concerned with tomorrow's League Cup match against Arsenal than what his big sister is up to.

Nice one Katy, just make sure you clean the coffee machine next time you are at work :-)
petestack - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to JLS:
> he knew what size of gear to take

But doesn't everyone know about the Tr*c*m?

petestack - on 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> And what a great effort by Katy - superb route, great bit of climbing.

Yep, fantastic! :-)

> I loved the Grit Kids film too. Awesome - well done.

Me too. Probably (along with the footage of The Hurting), my highlight of Committed II.
Keeg - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Brilliant. Nice one.
g taylor - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to highrepute:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> How many women have climbed E7?

Awesome effort Katy! Whats next?

Here's a few that have... Airlie Anderson, Emma Twyford, Lucinda Hughes, Lucy Creamer, Katherine Shirrmacher, Lisa Rands, Glenda Huxter and Katy of course. We just need to get Mina on a rope now!

George
Dringo - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Graeme Alderson:
>
> Nice one Katy, just make sure you clean the coffee machine next time you are at work :-)

Can't believe your making her clean after climbing an E7, slave driver!
g taylor - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to g taylor: Ooops, sorry Katherine...! "Schirrmacher"
Enty - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to highrepute:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> How many women have climbed E7?

How many girls have onsighted E7?

The ent

Aly - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Enty: They're the same thing aren't they? ;)
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g taylor - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Aly:
> (In reply to Enty) They're the same thing aren't they? ;)

Get back under your bridge Struan.
HughM - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to highrepute)
> How many girls have onsighted E7?

Glenda Huxter did The Bells, The Bells onsight. Not sure about any others.

Enty - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to HughM:

I thought Glenda's ascent was little contentious. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The Ent
HughM - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Enty:

I hadn't heard that. She's also done Wreath of Deadly Nightshade (E7) onsight according to various websites.
Enty - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to HughM:

Just goes to show what a topsy-turvy world British climbing is when a female onsight of Wreath goes unnoticed and headpoints of grit E7's are grounbreaking news. (no slight on Katy of course! well done!)

The Ent
Graham Hoey - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to HughM:
> (In reply to Enty)
> [...]
>
> Glenda Huxter did The Bells, The Bells onsight. Not sure about any others.

My understanding is that Glenda had side-runners in The Cad.
Graham
Graham Hoey - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I've noticed mats being used on some of these ascents. Which section is more likely to result in injury on Master's Edge (particularly if you are short), the start without mats (ask Mike Lea)or the finish?
Graham
Enty - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Graham Hoey:
> (In reply to HughM)
> [...]
>
> My understanding is that Glenda had side-runners in The Cad.
> Graham


That's what I heard. My mate who onsighted it reckoned this would reduce the grade.
I wonder If I will ever get the chance to venture onto that wall........

The Ent
Mick Ward - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Graham Hoey)

> I wonder If I will ever get the chance to venture onto that wall........

I doubt you'll be in the queue long enough to get bored!

Mick
Aly - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to g taylor: Really Louis, or do you misunderstand the grading system?

Nobody would ever claim to have 'climbed' E-whatever having headpointed it, would they?

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