/ NEWS: Dan Varian Repeats Superbloc E8/Font 8a
In an exciting weekend of gritstone action, 21 year old Dan Varian made the first ground-up ascent and second ascent overall, of Miles Gibson's Superbloc at Moorside Rocks in the Peak District.
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2008#n45495
From the report: " the new Peak District bouldering guide it suggests that highball Font 8a may be nearer the mark. Whilst Dan wasn't specific about the numbers he did say that he felt it may be a tad harder than that"
And this from the man that considers a three finger edge pull up font 7a+! Given the current grading controversies I'm surprised the Beastmaker people can get away with this, I demand the BMC intervene.
I like their style. They make fingerboarding seem funky. Given they get up FB8whatever outside but can 'only' manage 7c inside where they would seem to spend most of their climbing time I think we can conclude there is an element of undergrading.
http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com Reductionism ...hmm..wonder where they picked that up from.
Back-two basics for the rest of us I think.
Yes I think back-two training will be one of the key themes of 2009 along with longer skirts (we are in a recession after all), earthy colours and thrift shopping.
I'm confused. Is this tongue-in-cheek?
Congrats Dan, good effort!
We must edit your "face punch and water drop!" video...
Sam and Rich Orange
Dan never actually commented on the grade, other than saying it was possibly a tad harder than the guidebook-proposed Font 8a. He did say however that there was no way it was worth an E grade in this pad protected style.
The headline grades are merely taken from the most recent guides.
That makes sense. I wasn't trying to imply that Dan did claim E8, just curious. It looks brilliant and on my list for when I finally make it out of Yorkshire ;-)
Again, good effort
Mike/Mick Adams reported on UKB as having repeated Superbloc this morning.
Elsewhere on the site
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more
Atom Series: Synthetic insulated mid layers AR: All-Round. Significantly warmer and more protective than a fleece hoody, this... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more