/ NEWS/ARTICLE: Catalunya Report - F8c onsight, F9a new route

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Pete O'Donovan reports on recent Catalunya sport climbing action - with familiar faces such as Steve McClure, Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada.

"The action started on Saturday morning, when our own Steve McClure, after very little preparation the day before, made a fine ascent (possibly the 4th) of 'Humildes pa Casa' (8c)."

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/#n45498

Article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1504
Niall Grimes - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Amazing! Thanks for that Pete, and nice pics.
richard kirby - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Keep those Catalunya updates coming Pete.......very good.

Any more info about Oliana Pete. where abouts is it, grade spread etc?? Looks amazing.

Good to see Steve cranking it out for the "nearly vets", he can't be far off 40 now?
Morgan Woods - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

great stuff Pete....certainly more interesting than the usual UKC grit-centric grade spray that is proliferating lately.
BelleVedere on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to richard kirby:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
>
> Good to see Steve cranking it out for the "nearly vets", he can't be far off 40 now?

I think only his hair is aging - a bit like dorain gray and the painting

Pete O'Donovan - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Update — Monday: one would have thought that after such a weekend Chris Sharma might have put his heels up, but in fact he went to Santa Linya and made the first ascent of 'Selecció Natural-extensión' (9a)!
Ramón Julian also had a reasonable day on the same cliff, making the FA of a Dani Andrada project — 'Open your Mind -direct' (9a+?), before red-pointing 'Koala Mental' (8c) and warming down on 'Codigo Norte' (8b). Before anyone asks, no, I didn't get any pictures — after two consecutive days of jumaring and hanging around in space, I for one did need a rest!
Re Oliana: It's an awesome cliff, but apart from a day's worth of 7a/b routes, strictly for the big boys. I think Steve wants to do something for CLIMB, so I'll not steal his thunder by revealing all here.
Neil Foster - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

Great pictures Peter, as ever!

Any idea how the bearded (and clean shaven) pensioners got on?

Cheers

Neil
Pete O'Donovan - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Neil Foster: Hi Neil, the older members of the party were equally impressive, especially a certain Mr Carrington, who finessed his way up a number of tricky 7b face climbs, including one that nearly had Stevie Mac looking worried!
Regards,
Pete.
ksjs - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan: great photos! always good to hear the inspiring stuff thats going on in warmer climes. after the 7s whats the grade range like there, are there low 8s?
ksjs - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Pete O'Donovan: while i remember, any news on situation with bird bans for the area's crags?
Pete O'Donovan - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to ksjs:
It's all gone strangely quiet on that front. I heard a rumour that the authorities were rather taken aback at the level of opposition to their plans (they were apparently made aware of the UKC thread) and are now having a re-think, but I can't verify this. What is certain is that the proposed November meeting between the Medi Ambient and selection of local climbers was cancelled by the former, without stating a definite reason. Could be good news........or bad.
When/if anything concrete happens I'll be sure to report back to the forums.
Regards,
Pete.
James Oswald - on 09 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Amazing!!
Dan_Carroll - on 10 Dec 2008
and the rampage continues. It would appear the day after doing the 9a+ FA Ramon has done another two 9a's.

http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D1051%26AscentType%...

Sick!
Ged Desforges - on 12 Dec 2008
Thats the most inspiring thing i've seen on here for a long time, brilliant pics, cheers. Is there much call for science teachers who cant speak much spanish in catalunya?

Just how much of a big boy do you need to be to make a trip to Oliana worthwhile? are we talking 8c monsters only or is there good low 8's?

Your man Ramon sounds like an absolute animal, and Mclure doing that lot on a short holiday, FFS. Imagine turning up to Malham and dispatching cry freedom first go.

Suddenly a drizzly Bristol feels a bit of a shit place to be.
shark - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to Ged Desforges: Just how much of a big boy do you need to be to make a trip to Oliana worthwhile?


Not that big - if Ramón is anything to go by then 5ft 2in is more than adequate.
Ged Desforges - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to Simon Lee: I'm a lot taller than him, but i don't think that really matters! what a monster
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Pete O'Donovan - on 12 Dec 2008
> Just how much of a big boy do you need to be to make a trip to Oliana worthwhile? are we talking 8c monsters only or is there good low 8's?

Very big, I'd say. Apart from the handful of sevens mentioned previously, there's one 8a, one 8a+, then a big jump up to 8b+ or harder.
All in all it's probably best to give Oliana a bit more time before folks start visiting; the cliff is still festooned with ropes hanging down unfinished projects, and the rock, even on some of the existing routes is still (apparently) a little crumbly.
There seems little doubt that Oliana will eventually become a major destination on the Catalunya sport-climbing tour, but for all but the very best there are far better alternatives in the area — Terradets, Tres Ponts, Siurana, Montsant — to name just a few.

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