/ NEWS: Pete Whittaker 2nd ascent of 'A Little Peculiar'
Pete Whittaker (17) made the long awaited second ascent of Paul Higginson's A Little Peculiar (E6 7a/b) today on the Roaches Lower Tier.
The route is described in the Roaches guide as 'a one-armed footless mantelshelf onto the sloping lip, and may be one of the hardest moves of its type in the world'. Pete finished up Elegy (E2) and later, when asked by me
"So, is it 7b?"
Pete stated "Yes, I reckon so!"
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
But can it be any wackier than the mantelshelf on Dynamics of Change?
Impressive stuff either way (no way I could bend like Pete, let alone climb like that)! :-)
Spookily, it occurred to me while watching him do that astounding move on Dynamics of Change on Committed 2 over Christmas that he ought to go and have a look at this. Amazing effort.
I was wondering who it was who had left chalk marks on it when I saw it on Wednesday! Very impressive!
But realy it does have footholds unlike what the rockfax guide says .......
I was there when Andi Turner was top ropeing it and it was amazing!!
nice one pete,bloody good effort.
He does like his heel hooks and crazy mantelshelfs doesn't he?
Come on Jack, first ascentionist said 7b, second ascentionist said 7b so where does this 7a/b come into it? It's time to set these technical grades free :op
Why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?
Because he wondered who had been on it maybe? You say that as if its wrong to wonder whos been on a route!
"In reply to james oswald: why would you wonder who had left chalk on a route?"
Because it hadn't had a second ascent and I was wondering if it was going to get one. Something wrong with that?
nice to see you took advantage on the cold weather !
He will have some Peculiar aches this morning!
An inspiring piece of climbing Pete. Well done.
Well needed ascent. Top stuff!
I just took my news item grade from the nearest guidebook which was Rockfax Western Grit, and also by looking in the UKC logbooks: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=16031 and on the Rockfax website: http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=6185
However it could be E6 9b for all I know!
Superb effort from Pete Whittaker.
Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!
> Is that what it equals in french money??? A f9b mantleshelf? Holly f**k!!!
Apparently 8a.nu converts the grade of E6 7b to being an 8c sport route grade - you gotta laugh eh?
Cool, couldn't agree more.
As for 8c comparisons, well, we can't compare trad grit to limestone sport climbing, two very different games. I suppose if we had a grand graded list of trad grit routes compared to sport routes then it probably would equate.
I'd have no reservations in saying that Pete would be an 8c equivalent grit climber, his skill, dedication and technique would equate to this, if you get what I mean....
Maybe we should bolt some grit to allow us to give sport grades to grit..........
cans and worms james, save it for another thread :0)
Sorry I had to :P
Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
> Anyone know how many days working it it took him to do that move?
A lifetime of dedication, then a couple of brief sessions on a rope.
Well obviously you can stand on the handholds!
like andi and Ramshaw crack, ive heard the storys off Ross!! ;)
new seq' . Paul mantled using a press . Like the victorian over mantle ?
Pete used finesse and technique and no tobacco ! Good on him !
Damn, thats why i can't climb harder. Thanks for the tip :)
But don't handholds become footholds if you do? :-/
Yes, if like Pete you can get your feet up past your head!
Good effort, sir.
Only just found out bout this. Fine effort Pete. I was starting to think if it had remained unrepeated for any longer people would have started to question the first ascent! SO 7B it is then...
That's what he said! Brilliant route, great to see it done.
Paul, there would never have been any questioning the first ascent, don't you worry!
SO, if 7b stands, was it the first ever 7b on a route?
Warm Love and the Quarryman top pitch are 7b
Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?
> Warm Love was after LP if I recall correctly. Has the Quarryman top pitch been repeated? Was the grade confirmed?
What does LP mean?
Yes the top pitch of Quarryman has been repeated. I am not aware of any downgrading of it to date.
LP means Little Peculiar.
> What does LP mean?
Oh I get it. I'll have to take your word for it on that one.
Dunne repeated the groove and the top pitch. He gave the latter E6 7a.
Interesting... So there's potential.
I suppose it'd be interesting to know what route 7b's have been done since, they tend to get shot down in flames!
> Andy F
yes you're right, and this is considered to be the perfect example of a 7b move on a route. No downgrade on this one.
Is there any 7b routes on Salmon Slab at Bamford?
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