UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: An excellent report. It really puts things into perspective about how great an achievement this is.

What with Elder Statesman, The Groove and now this having been climbed, there aren't that many 'Last Great Problems' now left, but I don't think that will stop the likes of Ryan from finding new and ever greater challenges.

A superb start to 2009.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Hate to repeat myself but WOW, what an stunning piece of climbing, it must have been amazing to watch, great effort.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Where have I heard that 'this is the hardest line on grit' before!

In reply to andyinglis:

JP couldn't do it anyway..

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Fantastic. Hope he doesn't grade it. The more consensus (over time) the better.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Is the rock to the far left of the big pic a line? It looks like it could be an excellent one if it isn't. Well done to the man for getting the route climbed to, a beautiful bit of rock well climbed.

It's an E1 chip ladder

In reply to the inspiral carpet: Well if James Pearson tried it and didn't do it, it must be at least E13?

In reply to jonny taylor:
Cool, that sits in the region of climable for me.

In reply to Marc C:

i don't think there's any gear untill very high up, possibly higher up than it's famous neighbour, suggestions have been made that New Statesman be up-graded, and if this new line has been tried by all the top guys who failed, then Ryan's ascent could possibly be E9/10, dare i say even 11? it would be interesting to see Dave Mac get on it,even if it's just for his thoughts on the line!

In reply to the inspiral carpet: Yeah, maybe Dave Mac should star in a climbing film called Gradebusters - 'who you gonna call?'

In reply to jonny taylor:

It is an E1 that used to be a VS!

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=24074

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs: It was always VS every time I climbed it (many times), even the first time. Surely its not given E1 now? Ryan was always going to be brilliant, its good people are seeing that he has come of age

In reply to Marc C:

lol

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

Maybe he'll turn his attention to that magic line at Burbage one day soon ? ? ?

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Wizard Ridge or the Impossible Groove?

In reply to james oswald:

Wizard Ridge. I'd forgotten what it was called.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Wizard Ridge looks like an amazing feature, but the route Johnny figured out traverses in to the arete at 2/3 height after bridging up the corner on the left. The full arete line is more of a concept rather than an LGP, I don't think there are any holds on it, although I've not looked myself.

In reply to RupertD:

It looks more or less impossible, but it's got some very spaced very slight scoopy things on either side of the arete, so a little voice can't help saying 'I wonder?'.

In reply to RupertD:
"I don't think there are any holds on it, although I've not looked myself."

Surely that makes it more of a LGP?

In reply to james oswald:

I think Johnny was having a tongue in cheek moment when Wizard Ridge was shown on Hard Grit. Its definetly only a concept - there are no holds - no gear and no-one to my knowledge has bothered with it.

...now I'll eat my words if it ever happens of course!

;0)

In reply to Simon: Some stooped guy a plus 9 Ape index will come alang and.....

In reply to james oswald:


Problems are there to be solved. Concepts just are.

In reply to Mark Stevenson:


On grit maybe they are dwindling, but there is certainly no shortage of stunning unclimbed rock out there.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: I find it quite interesting to note that this ascent doesn't seem to have recieved even a fraction of the coverage or hype that the groove recieved, yet it appears to be at least as hard, if not harder, and probably a less eliminate line.
Make of that what you will.

In reply to The Flying Giraffe:

A bit 'remote' from the 'centre of British rock climbing' perhaps?

In reply to The Flying Giraffe: well no over excited spectator called it unadvisedly the hardest route in the UK, sparking a Scottish back lash in defence of a certain super route high in Lochaber etc etc.

Cue 350 UKC posts ranging from the relative safety merits of slider nuts vs. RPs to the socio economic background to the Highland clearances...

In reply to TobyA:


Excellent post, but AFAIK DM hasn't tried Overshadow...

Andy F

In reply to The Flying Giraffe:

Give it a chance, it is only a few days old. The coverage at the same relative time since the ascent is not that different from The Groove I don't think. That got an OTT hype from a magazine afterwards, and that may not happen in this case but, at this stage, I don't see too much difference.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - UKC:

Well knowing Ryan I doubt he booked a photographer and film crew...

In reply to The Flying Giraffe:

>....and probably a less eliminate line.

C'mon, less of this. The Groove's a stunning line.

jcm

In reply to The Flying Giraffe:
A very distinct line iirc..

In reply to The Flying Giraffe:


It was climbed on Saturday.

We covered it on our News page immediately with a photograph and commentary from John Dunne

Jan 10: NEWSFLASH: Ryan Pasquill climbs wall left of New Statesman
by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2009#n45552

Jan 10: John Dunne Describes New Ilkley Super-Route
by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2009#n45553

You will also find it o other world wide climbing media

http://www.8a.nu/

Another Gritstone Challenge Falls
By Luke Laeser

http://climbing.com/

Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England

http://planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36533

and elsewhere

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

apart from Gaskins...

In reply to the inspiral carpet:


Godskins, exactly!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:


Never been interested in the last line at Tegness Quarry North ... loosers them all...

;0)

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

or gas(rhino hide)skins...?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
It wasn't so much the lack of coverage on websites, just the difference in recongnition country - wide (general banter and threads etc) it seems to have fallen by the wayside a little, which is a shame I think. Maybe this will change over the coming weeks?
I mean this is, according to JD, "the hardest line on grit" a true LGP - unlike other suppossed LGPS, which are, frankly, often a little crappy.
It could well be the grit-achievement of the year. Fine effort that man, fine f*cking effort indeed.

In reply to The Flying Giraffe:

It's Tuesday right?

The route was climbed on Saturday, four days ago.

Media coverage was instant.

You'll have to explain what you mean as you aren't making any sense at all.

In reply to The Flying Giraffe:

>"it seems to have fallen by the wayside a little, which is a shame I think"

You'd rather Ryan Pasquill integrity was questioned? The guy has climbed a nice bit of rock, gave it an uncontroversial grade and received warm plaudits.

I'm thinking all is as it should be unless you think the climb has been wilfully under-graded with an ulterior motive in mind?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Stick and wrong end of.
It wasn't an observation of the nature of the media coverage; especially on here- it's been pretty good. Have a gold star Hans.
It's more to do with the relative lack of talk and psyche for this ascent, perhaps one of the / the finest on grit in the past decade? And I don't mean bitching, just general congrats and interest.
To clarify a little, this line impresses me more on an aesthetic level than the following "LGP"s:

Equlibrium: dumply little arete with a ledge half way up it.
Elder Stateman: weird one move wonder.
The Promise: too small to inspire
The Groove: looks a little contrived at the top
Blind Vision: big ledge.

Not that any of these are poor efforts, of course, it’s just that IMO this is head and shoulders, no?