Topic - Bolted cracks
| by - jon on - 20 Jan 2009
|About 15 years ago I bolted a good but small crag here in Vallorcine. I never publicised it as it's on private land. It has half a dozen routes from 6a+ - 8a+. At the left end is a grossly overhanging off width. A few years later an American by the name of Craig Luebben (who invented the 'Big Bro' expanding tube chock) came along and climbed it using his tube chocks, and grading it 5.12c - or 7b+ in French Francs. Just a few years ago a marauding team of climbers from Argentiere discovered the crag and the 'unclimbed' (read unbolted) crack, which they bolted and laid siege to it. I'm not sure if anyone has managed to climb it since. It is now equipped with loooong slings so it can be frigged easily. (As someone has already pointed out in a comment on the photo, they couldn't even get that right...) A grade of 8a+ has been put about! This goes to show that homo erectus francais has a way to go before he gets anywhere near the Yanks. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=106567 |
How do you feel about it? Or, to put it another way, how would you feel if you found a line of bolts along side one of those big Curbar cracks? (apart from relieved, that is...)
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