UKC

http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/

In reply to jaysus:
Very interesting and insightful.

In reply to james oswald:

So it comes down to subjective judgement. No big surprise. I was a little curious that he said that some climbers had compared the fall on rhapsody to a fall on a sports route.

In reply to wilding: looks long for a sport climb route, maybe he will qualify the comment later?

Overall though, a pretty decent effort at justifying his gradings. Time will tell at what grades they will settle.

In reply to jaysus:

In my armchair expert opinion I reckon James needs to do if 6 was 9 and then report back.

In reply to wilding:
How about when compared to the falls Sharma took on Jumbo Love?

In reply to Richard Bradley:

He doesn't have to. He didn't make the comment about the fall being like a sport route. He's reporting what others have said.

Very good response by James. It would appear the only two behaving decently in the argument are the two who are actually on the sharp end of a rope - not a keyboard.

I hopeit shuts a lot of people up - but i doubt it.

In reply to biscuit:


That is the best reply i have read on here in donkeys years.
Well said!

In reply to jaysus:


Interesting response on his blog but IMO and as some have commented there, there's a big flaw .

He admitted he compared it to a route he hasn't done. Surely that's no yardstick?

From JP's blog:

“On my first attempt at Rhapsody (on a toprope), I flashed the first half of the headwall, falling due to an incorrect foot placement. I then flashed each individual move to the top.”

I found the moves on Rhapsody to be straightforward, and this was ‘the E11’. I watched other climbers take the fall that they described as “nothing”, comparing it to bigger lobs that they had taken sport climbing. Accordingly I compared this to my experience on TWOL and graded it with Rhapsody in mind (and I appreciate the two routes are different styles).


There appear to be two points I have a problem with:

1) How can you compare it to a route when you have not cleanly led it?
2) How can you flash an individual move or individual moves????

Sorry, but from where I'm standing, the grade-justification just doesn't add up.

In reply to Fraser:
1)As im sure your aware you can get a pretty good idea of how hard a route is by top roping it and asking other people about it, so i think its fair to say hes got a reasonable idea of how hard it is.

2)If you do each individual move first time youve flashed each move.

In reply to jaysus:

Is the 'E' not part of the objective danger, how sustained the route is, how much gear there is, how run out it is etc - How can James Pearson compare it to Rhapsody if he has not led it? Is it not like me saying I can run a full marathon because I ran half of it?

To me (to be honest a fairly new climber) it just doesn't add up, I still don't understand how he can grade it E12. I'm going to stick with what Dave Macleod says on the matter, as he is the one with the experience in grading high routes, and has done quite a few of them.

Can I still change the grades VS's to E5 because I found them quite difficult?

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Nothing about TWOL 7a to 6c change - and not mentioned much on here either?

In reply to torbaytradclimber:

>Is the 'E' not part of the objective danger, how sustained the route is, how much gear there is, how run out it is etc - How can James Pearson compare it to Rhapsody if he has not led it? Is it not like me saying I can run a full marathon because I ran half of it?

Not in several ways, no. An idiotic post.

jcm

In reply to Fraser:

I would tend to agree with your sentiment here. I seem to recall Rhapsody was described by Dave Mac as a power endurance route (quite unlike TWOL). It may well be easy for a strong boulderer to flash the individual moves in the same way it would be easy for them to flash all the moves on a V12 stamina traverse. A very, very different thing to linking them all on lead.

In reply to Fraser:

They are probably both laughing at the bleating masses of UKC getting all hot and bothered about this.