In reply to rock_eccentric:
I don't think anyone would seriously suggest that this (very) minor spat takes anything away from a great effort. The comments are about Jack Geldard translating the grade to the UK E grade. Whilst debatable, and in IMO unnecessary in this case, it's far from a new thing to do. I'm sure in the past some have found such translations helpful, maybe nowadays not so much. And given how the E grade has evolved to allow headpointing, rather than just onsighting, perhaps it is increasingly ill-suited to big mountain rock routes. But maybe the Huber's dropped a top rope over Holtanna and practised the moves first. No? E4 doesn't sound so hard when E12 exists, but of course they're not the same thing - so should the same grading be used?
I personally couldn't give a penguin's ass about E grades, however ...
I AM well through writing the upcoming book 'Mountaineering In Antarctica', which is a guide as well as a history. It's due out next year, so will cover these Huber climbs, as well as other hard rock routes done in QML by all nationalities. I will record the grades as they were given by those who climbed them, as I did in a previous book (Norwegians used UIAA, Americans used YDS, Russians used Russian etc). If someone wants to get lost in translation, that is up to them. But until some Brits go down there and climb something new and give it an E grade, that system will remain, for me, confined to your green and pleasant isle(s).
D