In reply to grubus: what a tragedy, as you may know, his brother Speedy (Dave) died a few weeks back - also a great guy and excellent climber, what a disaster for the family.
Apparently they sensibly decided to return off Jack's Rake high up due to ice, as didn't have adequate gear, then met others on what they were told was an easier alternative route and went up with them, only for a disastrous slip to happen.
Great lad, too good to go in such a tragic way.