UKC

lost ice screw on point five gully

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 alex pickard 08 Feb 2009
Left a grivel helix ice screw (marked with grey tape) on 3rd pitch of point five gully on sunday 8th February, whilst backing off (bluddy spin drift avalanches!)If anyone finds it, please let me know. Alex Pickard 07966 897949. Glasgow Uni Mountaneering club.

Many thanks, Al
 gethin_allen 09 Feb 2009
In reply to alex pickard:
And then you get in to the thread about if you back off a route do you relinquish all rights to the left gear? That should get a debate going again.
Personally I hope you get your stuff back.
In reply to alex pickard: That's unlucky - I heard the ice is good?

You should learn how to do abalakov threads - then you only leave tat behind!
 jonnie3430 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Good comment, should wind Alex up a lot.

Calvin said something like "When your're feeling unhappy a little guilt makes it much worse."
G Graham 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
> (In reply to alex pickard) That's unlucky - I heard the ice is good?
>
> You should learn how to do abalakov threads - then you only leave tat behind!


Just to state the obvious a krab or maillon as well....
In reply to G Graham: Do you really need to?

Now, I'm perfectly prepared to be told I'm insane, but I don't see what's wrong with doing a careful abseil with the ropes throught the abalakov?

There should be no rubbing while you're abseiling, so not going to wear through and as long as you don't go mental when pulling the ropes through you're not going to damage the ropes.

Is this suicidal? (I've only had to do one thread and happily abbed off it direct).
 gethin_allen 09 Feb 2009
In reply to alex pickard:
If you are only using one bomber bit of gear like a massive thread then only threading a rope through the tat is fine i reckon.
If the gear is more complicated I guess a maillon or krab is useful.
G Graham 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
Sorry Alasdair, I thought you were all talking about lowering off an abolokov (not abbing). To lower off an abolokov w/o some metalwork between the ropes would be insane as the thread would almost certainly be cut.
In reply to G Graham: Ahaa - all clear now. I wouldn't lower of a thread either !!!!!
 Jamie B 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

> Now, I'm perfectly prepared to be told I'm insane, but I don't see what's wrong with doing a careful abseil with the ropes throught the abalakov?

Mechanicaly I'm sure that's fine, but does it not introduce a lot of friction when you are retrieving the rope? For the cost of a wee bit of tat I wouldnt chance it.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: That sentecne wasn't very clear - I meant abb off the abalkov thread, not off the abalokov itself.
 maxf 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

Back to the original debate someone raised...

I am curious what the 'done thing' is here. I am from overseas and haven't yet come across this bit of UK ethics.

As far as I remember in Australia, the accepted thing was if you backed off a route because it was beyond you or you get lost etc: then the gear is up for grabs.

If however you back off whilst rescuing someone, after an accident, or leave gear to make bombproof anchors whilst helping another party etc etc, then any decent soul should give it back...

What is the ethic here?
 Jamie B 10 Feb 2009
In reply to maxots:

No ethic as such, but if a skint student leaves something behind he'd be daft not to have a punt for getting it back. Equally a finder with a generous sould may see karma in returning it. But this is not expected.
G Graham 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
Apparently there's quite a different ethic in France. A couple of weeks ago I was leading one of the top pitches of Beating the Retreat in Fournel and, like a knob, dropped a screw which landed some distance below my belayer on a snow ledge. A french guy also dropped a screw from about the same point to the right of me. His pals picked up both screws and pocketed them. When I asked for my screw back at the top, they were quick to forget that they could speak english and wouldn't give it back. He said he didn't have it.
I wish I was the fighting type. It would have been an interesting "Eiger Sanction" type moment.
 Jamie B 10 Feb 2009
In reply to G Graham:

Did you try speaking French to them? Might have helped the entente cordial...
 chris_s 10 Feb 2009
In reply to maxots:

How do you know why the gear was left?
 maxf 10 Feb 2009
In reply to chris_s:

Well usually if there was some sort of accident or similar then it would either be in the local climbing news or on similar websites to this one.

For example I once heard of some climbers who helped out rescuing someone who had taken a big fall and broken something (leg maybe? not sure) Anyway they left heaps of gear doing multiple raps and posted to explain the situation on a forum, think someone else retrieved their gear, or maybe they got it at a later date, my memory fails me.

Equally I once met a group at the bottom of a long crack route we were planning to climb, they had bailed leaving 3 cams and biners and slings. I was confident I could climb the route and offered to retrieve their gear. The leader said if I could climb it the gear was mine! I did and still have the cams! Score!

Also if you are ever poor then Mt Arapiles in Oz is a great place to pick up gear, you can solo easy classics and find booty galore !
G Graham 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
Yes. I tried French; being a Canadian I'm reasonably ok at it as well. But they were adamant they didn't have the screw. Anyway, the guys weren't local and they were perhaps not typical. I did think about tying off their ab ropes on them until they forfeited it though....
 george mc 10 Feb 2009
In reply to G Graham:
Ha! You did Beating the Retreat? I did the first ascent of that with Robin Clothier back in the early nineties. What did ya think of it?

Cheers fur noo
George
Ian Black 10 Feb 2009
In reply to alex pickard: The price of a Malion and a couple of pieces of tat is a small price to pay for getting safely off a route. Do two Ablakovs and join the tat with a Malion, then thread the ropes through the Malion. A lot cheaper than leaving a screw behind, mate.
In reply to G Graham:

Historically, they would have surrendered, handing over their entire rack!!

Sorry, Erick (nationalised Scot IMHO)

Stuart
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