/ NEWS: Greg Chapman repeats Gaskins' V13

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Greg Chapman has repeated the famous John Gaskins problem Walk Away.

Walk Away (stand-up start) is graded V13 (Font 8B) and is a vertical wall of limestone, smattered with tiny holds.

"I know it's not been repeated before, although I have no idea how many people have tried it..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=45974
James Oswald - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Well done to Greg.
Those holds look tiny!
James
James Oswald - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
No video I assume?
:)
James
Richard Bradley - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: So how many moves has greg made in the picture? One to go?
Bulls Crack - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

"... it's at least English 6c."

Not unsurprisingly? Thought it would be somewhat more - vertical technical wall
Michael Ryan - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> "... it's at least English 6c."

I think he maybe taking the piss a little. It's just damn hard.
Richard Bradley - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Bulls Crack: Sounds like Greg has found an easier way (for him) to do it. Dynos are hard to grade though.
Michael Ryan - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Richard Bradley:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack) Sounds like Greg has found an easier way (for him) to do it.

How the hell do you work that out? You'd have to get inside and be Gaskins and Chapman to find out.

It's hard, damn hard.

Hope Greg gets the sit down that looks weally weally hard, nails in fact.

Lovely place.

dobby 200 - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

haha ive got a friend called Greg Chapman! too bad he cant climb...

good effort on those tiny holds!
Bulls Crack - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Richard Bradley)
> [...]
>
> How the hell do you work that out? You'd have to get inside and be Gaskins and Chapman to find out.
>
> It's hard, damn hard.

So a beefy tech grade may well be in order.

Extend that tech grade!

Liam Copley - on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Sick. I was wondering when the Gaskins problems would finally get sent.
goneforever on 09 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

News story doesn't actually say where it is, unless I'm going barmy.
broughton power on 09 Feb 2009 - cache-los-ac04.proxy.aol.com
In reply to Martin76: fairysteps
Sersh on 09 Feb 2009 - 80-195-235-214.cable.ubr05.dals.blueyonder.co.uk
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Nice one Greg, you dirty westy!
Michael Ryan - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Martin76:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> News story doesn't actually say where it is, unless I'm going barmy.

Barmy.

Fairy Steps.

Guide here: http://lakesbloc.co.uk/45.html

Mick

Richard Bradley - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Richard Bradley)
> [...]
>
> How the hell do you work that out?

There are plenty of clues in the story Mick.
goneforever on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Cheers! I'm sure you sneaked in an edit there...I can't be that blind.
McBirdy - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Hmm. I'm obviously no boulderer. From where I'm sitting it looks as if you could just run at the wall, jump up on smears and stick the good holds. In fact I would imagine that someone tall could just jump.

Am I missing something?

Ben
Michael Ryan - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Ben Darvill:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)


> Am I missing something?

Slightly.
Richard Hall - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Ben Darvill: Yes, have you ever tried to do that?
Adam Lincoln - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Ben Darvill:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Hmm. I'm obviously no boulderer. From where I'm sitting it looks as if you could just run at the wall, jump up on smears and stick the good holds. In fact I would imagine that someone tall could just jump.
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> Ben

Obviously your aren't....

Richard Bradley - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Which is/are the start holds on the standing start? Match on 3 on the sit start diagram?
Michael Ryan - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Richard Bradley:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) Which is/are the start holds on the standing start? Match on 3 on the sit start diagram?

Stand up is holds 4 and 5 to 6 then top out: which may give you an idication of how hard that one move is.

"I had to use a different sequence to John's original high step method - I could get my foot up, but couldn't move. My sequence dyno's (thanks to Chris Davies for sewing that seed) the move from the crozzley “crumpet” hold (left hand), a small two finger crimp (right hand) and goodish but inconveniently placed/angled foothold."

Sit Start: the proposed V15/Font 8C, start with holds 1 and 2.

Adam Lincoln - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Richard Bradley:

4, or 4 and 5 or whatever combination.
Richard Bradley - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln: So a one move V13? Must be a shit hard move!
teddy - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Richard Bradley:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) So a one move V13? Must be a shit hard move!

Yer not wrong.
ghisino - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Ben Darvill)
> [...]
>
>
> [...]
>
> Slightly.

I was thinking almost the same...could be a "swing" start possible? (I mean starting hold, one foot hold, swing arm and jump with the other foot on the ground)

sometimes there are fierce debates around the topic if one particular problem was opened with the swing, or static. (I personally consider a forbidden swing start as an eliminant, or game)

Seems obvious that in this case, there was no swing an that...well, the SDS version solvers the debate :D
teddy - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to ghisino:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)

>
> sometimes there are fierce debates around the topic if one particular problem was opened with the swing, or static. (I personally consider a forbidden swing start as an eliminant, or game)
>
Tut, tut, we're not at Bas Cuvier! No French starts please.
Adam Lincoln - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply people suggesting it could be jumped.

Greg is tall, and that photo makes the problem appear shorter than it is. No chance of running at it and jumping. And well, if your even suggesting it.....!
James Oswald - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
How tall is Greg?
Michael Ryan - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> In reply people suggesting it could be jumped.
>
> Greg is tall, and that photo makes the problem appear shorter than it is. No chance of running at it and jumping. And well, if your even suggesting it.....!

Very restrained of you Adam.

Maturing?



Adam Lincoln - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> [...]
>
> Very restrained of you Adam.
>
> Maturing?

Getting old i think. I am worrying myself. I am typing replies nowadays, and then never bother to click submit ;-)
justin c - on 10 Feb 2009
In reply to james oswald:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
> How tall is Greg?

8ft 6" . So the problem does look smaller than it is . . .
Enty - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> In reply people suggesting it could be jumped.
>
> Greg is tall, and that photo makes the problem appear shorter than it is. No chance of running at it and jumping. And well, if your even suggesting it.....!

Rubbish. Russ Walling could do it and he's nowhere near as tall as Greg ;-)

Enty
ghisino - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to teddy:
> (In reply to ghisino)
> [...]
>
> [...]
> Tut, tut, we're not at Bas Cuvier! No French starts please.

:D

Adam Lincoln - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> [...]
>
> Rubbish. Russ Walling could do it and he's nowhere near as tall as Greg ;-)
>
> Enty

Who?

Enty - on 11 Feb 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to Enty)
> [...]
>
> Who?

Ask Mick Ryan. The Fish is a legend.

Enty


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